There were a lot of themes at play for Zero + Maria Cornejo’s spring 2014 collection. The designer’s inspirations ranged from ancient civilizations, to digital prints and a mirror exhibit she saw at the Palais de Tokyo–but it’s a testament to her subtlety and deftness as a designer that such disparate references didn’t compete with one another.
The show opened with a series of structured sand-colored looks, which recalled a desert. Those gave way to dark cobalt blues, and colorful digital prints–a signature of Cornejo’s–and later, stark white looks. Several looks seemed to have been made out of a Turkish towel textile; when paired with black separates, the impression was that of the new bohemian. A wanderer and free spirit, for sure, but not a granola-munching hippie. The beauty and hair enforced this: Models were bare-faced, hair pulled back and topped with a tribal-inspired metal bar.
But things really got interesting in the evening wear department. Cornejo, like any good New Yorker, eschews anything too fussy. Her dresses were structured, yet fluid, and sometimes worn over pants. I was particularly obsessed with the metallic-coated linen looks–especially the gold jumpsuit.