The “exuberant aesthetics” of fellow Brazilian Carmen Miranda may have inspired Pedro Lourenço’s Spring 2014 collection, but there were no fruit turbans to be found.
Instead, Lourenço looked to the long, narrow silhouettes favored by the 1940s film star. A pair of skinny leather trousers sat super high on the waist. They were worn with a cropped, long-sleeve tee shirt and a white fabric belt. The tee was covered in square sequins that were lined up to make a grid-like pattern—it went from clay-to-nude in color, creating an ombre effect. The bottom of a black-and-white diagonal stripe turtleneck dress—which hit at the mid-calf—had a similar look, although that pattern was done with laser-cutting instead of sequins. A off-white tube dress, with a panel of silver leather making up the skirt, combined the laser-cutting and sequin techniques. A single feather earring, worn by each model, added just the right amount of flourish.
Lourenço’s black, white and cream looks were the strongest: he is at his best when his focus is narrow.