Joseph Altuzarra is not one to usually go for color. While there was some dabbling to be seen in pre-fall 2014, he really turned things up a notch for his fall collection on Saturday evening, shown at Spring Studios.
Still, the bright hues were contained and used smartly, which is something you’d expect from a designer who, while wild about sex appeal, keeps things pretty refined. “It is a lot of about joy, a lot about freedom, but also about finding restraint within that freedom,” he said of his foray beyond neutrals and darks in the show notes. So, while it is a fashion cliché, never before has the phrase “pop of color” been more apt.
The opening looks were sumptuous double-faced wrap coats with shots of cobalt running through them — on the lapel or the underside of a belt. Similar styles popped up moments later, this time in a combination of fuchsia and a mossy green. The most clever use came in the form of his trademark second-skin sheath dresses, this time in gray, but spliced or trimmed to reveal tiny strips of hot pink and bright orange.
Things actually did get a little crazy for a moment with the fur coats (which were each assembled from over 70 pieces), done up in an oversized plaid pattern and incorporating a whole range of shades — red, turquoise, yellow, avocado, fuchsia, you name it. Altuzarra served up more flamboyance with a few hand-crafted tapestry pieces, the showstopper being a neon pink and coral number with a few straggling strings at the hem that made up a nice fringe.
All in all, it was a pretty luxe and tasteful way to “explore the rainbow.” Altuzarra stayed true to his woman, but made her a little more playful and approachable this season — qualities that are never a bad thing in our eyes.