We can always count on Erdem Moralioglu to up the stakes at London Fashion Week, especially in a season where we’ve seen so much casualwear and oversized outerwear. The rich, opulent and regal nature of his fall collection provided a stark contrast to the endless parkas and knits of previous shows this week.
The clothes started out a little darker, a little more gothic than his usual fare, but managed not to lose any of his signature beauty and drama. Black crocodile capes felt fresh and young, paired with sparkly pointed Nicholas Kirkwood flats. Brocade trouser suits somehow seemed airy and light, in ruby reds and emerald greens. Ornate gold prints were reminiscent of de Gournay wallpaper, and embroidery and embellishment meshed seamlessly onto sheepskin. Jewels, tulle accents and delicate fringing were worked into patterns, lifting even the heavier fabrics into something indescribably special. In all, this collection was polished to perfection and exuded extreme expense — not that we’d expect anything less from Erdem.