Jason Wu‘s fall collection marked a departure in the beauty department. Although he’s been known for giving his girls a vampy, ultra-luxe look in the past, the designer pulled back this season to focus instead on a clean, polished look with a slight focus on the brow. While the makeup team practiced restraint, Odile Gilbert’s crew of hairstylists gave the Wu girl new edge, in the form of a roughed-up, scraped-back bun.
“Usually for him, we do looks that are like really controlled, and this time it’s a bit messed up,” Gilbert says. “He’s never had messed up hair. He always does a clean look.”
As Gilbert notes, you wouldn’t call it messy necessarily, just messed up. She used her palms to push the hair back tight along the temple, making it tidy and contained — as she put it, “We make a small head” — and then used her fingers to comb through and separate the strands at the crown. In the back, the chignon was nest-like, with visible bobby pins and a rough texture. Combined with the flawless face the Lancôme team created, it made for a cool look that wasn’t trying too hard. Business in the front, house party in the back.
Overall, the effect was perfectly chic and the right complement to a collection that was dark and not at all frothy, working especially well with the ’90s-style slip dresses Wu showed. Would we love to have seen a rich green lid at play? Always. But for this particular collection, the look was a winner.