A full face of makeup may not be “in” these days, but when so many makeup artists reference a “really clean look” backstage, you get excited when a designer goes all out in the beauty department. At Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2014 runway show, girls were certainly given a full face, meant to give them appearance of marble statues. This, friends, was the unicorn of the beauty world: an exciting look rendered in neutrals.
François Nars, who gave an interview despite having strep throat, said that the makeup look was based on the matte fabrics of the clothes. That meant drawing on a color palette of pale grays, beige, camels and chocolate browns: “really silky colors and really powdery colors,” in Nars’ words.
The makeup team focused on drawing out the girls’ eyes with a pale, neutral gray on the eyelid and a sweep of well-blended brown to deepen the crease. A slash of brown shadow along the top and bottom lashes extended the eye and gave it even more depth. Here, blending kept the eye contouring soft and pretty, not campy. Nixing the mascara gave the eyes an uninterrupted look.
“They look almost like those Greek statues that have no lashes at all,” Nars says. “The eyelid is very big, as big as possible.”
Nars used “a lot” of translucent powder to give the models’ skin the look of plaster or porcelain. Blush kept the girls looking alive and healthy. Paired with the eyes and a pale gloss on the lips, the look was, as Nars said, “statuesque.”
For those with a predilection for Shakespeare, it’s exactly the look that one might create for the character of Hermione in The Winter’s Tale, who poses as a statue before reuniting with her estranged family. New beginnings and all that.
The hair team proved that consistency, even in neutral tones, doesn’t have to be boring. As with the makeup, the wigs Guido Palau developed for the girls were immaculate: blunt and super-straight, cutting just below the models’ chins. While still fitting into Jacobs’ overall scheme of pale earth tones, a pastel pink-blonde here and a purpley-brown there complemented the makeup in the best way. And, like the clothes, the overall look was surprisingly wearable.
And here’s something to look forward to: You may not be able to afford Marc Jacobs’ new collection when it hits stores (I, for one, certainly can’t) — but there is at least one element that should be accessible for most. For the first time, Jacobs is releasing a limited edition five-color range of nail polishes (below) to complement his collection, the same ones used on the models by manicurist Marian Newman at the show Thursday night. Just like his fall 2014 beauty look, the polish shades are neutrals with a twist. We’re especially taken with the mustard-chartreuse hybrid. The collection will be available to purchase this fall at marcjacobsbeauty.com.