Skotison designer Chelsea Goldman made the conscious decision not to show this season. After all, it's her second collection ever, and there are certainly more beneficial ways for a fledgling designer to use her limited resources than by adding yet another (relatively unknown) name to NYFW's already crowded calendar.
So, we made the trip to her humble midtown studio in between shows to get a quick walk-through of her latest collection. And we're glad we did.
For one, her points of inspiration were awesomely offbeat: the Hutterites, an a offshoot of the Amish that wear bright prints instead of dark colors and aprons. This influence could be seen in the long hemlines and overall lack of exposed skin. As for the inky blues and heavy fabrics she used throughout the collection, the effect was more cool than creepy. She was also inspired by the Source Family, a cult in California in the 1970s, whose cryptic symbols actually show up in the collection -- embroidered onto the collar of a button-down or the front of a sweater, rendered in a ditzy print on skirts and embossed on coats.
It all worked because Goldman, who studied at Central Saint Martins and cut her teeth at Céline under Phoebe Philo, has the technical skills to back up her unorthodox ideas. Every piece felt well-tailored, high-end and restrained, without too much going on. She said she wanted the pieces to look and feel expensive, even though her price point is pretty reasonable, between $350 to $2,200.
Goldman's tendency to find creative spark in some sort of insular group -- for instance, her graduate collection was apparently modeled after Toddlers & Tiaras, is kind of amazing. We look forward to seeing what she does next -- not to mention how her business grows. While she's only in a couple of stores now (one in Brooklyn and one in Japan, go figure), she's taken feedback from buyers and dreams of one day being stocked in shops like Barneys and Opening Ceremony. Those goals seems within reach if you ask us.
Check out her fall collection below, exclusively on Fashionista.