For her eponymous Fall ’14 collection, the ever-polished Misha Nonoo looked to Louis Kahn’s barrel vaulted architectural classic, the Kimbell Museum in Fort Worth, Texas. “The starting point was [Kahn’s] design philosophy on using natural light and space,” Nonoo explained backstage before the show. “It brought me to thinking about this idea that really so much of what we do is about construction,” continued the designer, “and I wanted to look much more deeply into that aspect of construction.” This structural focus led to some very architectural shapes — in Nonoo’s rich, almost Gatsby-reminiscent powder-shaded outerwear in particular. The coats, the real standouts of the collection, were crafted with an oversized top (“The back is created by inserting a canvas fused into the fabrication!” Nonoo exclaimed) and tapered bottom half.
There were also some peek-a-boo moments. The little box cutouts on Nonoo’s midi length pencil skirts —- elegant and delicately suggestive without being obvious — were memorable in particular. A front row of power editors (Mark Holgate, Taylor Tomasi Hill, Emily Holt) and big time bloggers (Leandra Medine, who would look divine in Nonoo’s fur glazed blazer) made it pretty impossible to tell that this was only Nonoo’s second-ever runway show.