There was a lot riding on Reed Krakoff’s runway show Wednesday afternoon, Krakoff’s first since leaving his post as creative director of Coach (and buying back his own label from the company) after 16 years.
I’m sure there were many in the audience who expected Krakoff to make a statement — but that’s not the kind of designer Krakoff is. What he delivered was a very restrained collection, both in cut — clothes were largely streamlined and slim — and color — there was a mostly neutral palette that moved into cobalt and one bright, citron-colored gown at the end (see top right).
Accessories are where Krakoff really shines, and he showed attractive, round-heeled ankle boots in a variety of colors and textures, like patent leather and calf hair. We were secretly hoping for a brand new bag shape from Krakoff this season, but he (like many other designers) favored the bucket bag this season, rendered in incredibly luxe materials, like alligator and python with 14k gold and rhodium hardware. Just as eye-catching was the jewelry — there were large, tough-looking bar rings and cuffs as well as elegant, cylindrical pendants made of gold or silver with semi-precious stones, like onyx, agate and lapis.