Those Hot Pink Eyelids at Altuzarra Were an Homage to Isabella Blow

For the designer's surprisingly colorful fall 2014 collection, makeup artist Tom Pecheux created playful and fun makeup to match.
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Eliza Brooke
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For the designer's surprisingly colorful fall 2014 collection, makeup artist Tom Pecheux created playful and fun makeup to match.
Photo: ImaxTree

Photo: ImaxTree

Backstage at Altuzarra, both Odile Gilbert and Tom Pecheux took a decidedly relaxed approach to beauty — this despite, in Pecheux's case, dusting the models' eyelids with lime green glitter and an occasional swipe of fluorescent pink. As the makeup artist put it so rightly, fashion is meant to be fun.

Pecheux's team gave the girls' skin a clean, satin finish, added a nude lip and skipped blush, mascara and brow pencil (Pecheux: "I'm lazy"). They applied glitter all over the eyelid but with more density by the lashes; for those recreating at home, Pecheux says that lipgloss or Homeoplasmine will give the glitter more stick and intensity. On six of the girls, Pecheux took 30 seconds to apply a bright pink lipstick to their eyelids in a "banana" shape, just to mix things up.

"For me, bringing the pink was like -- it's an homage to Isabella Blow, all those women who were having fun," he said. "That's what I love about Joseph. When you look at the collection, not only does he make them look beautiful... he makes women look like they're having fun."

And Pecheux was not being particularly precious about the application. If a bit of the glitter fell onto the models cheeks or got caught in their brows, he couldn't be bothered to brush it away.

"I hate when it's too perfect. When it's too perfect you feel like nothing is alive. That's why I prefer to go to galleries than museums," he said.

On the hair front, Odile Gilbert kept things similarly achievable, finger-brushing the girls' hair and pulling it back into simple buns at the middle of the head.

"It's rough. If there is baby hair, there is baby hair," Gilbert said. "It's what you do, all of you, on a Sunday when you don't have to see a boy."

A-men. As Gilbert pointed out, it's exactly the same hairstyle that models create on themselves when they're leaving a show (or what some writers do when they're cranking out a beauty review on a Sunday morning). For girls with shorter hair they added extensions; those with finer hair got a spritz of dry shampoo to help with hold.

Paired with the glittery eyes, which looked almost neutral in daylight despite being lime green, the whole beauty look was refreshing, casual and totally doable. It seems that you could pull your hair back, dab on some glitter and head out the door faster than it would take to create a good cat-eye flick.

"For once, it's something everybody can do," Gilbert said. "You need one good elastic."