Kenzo, Chloe, Kirkwood and More: Paris Fashion Week Recap, Day 6

It was a David Lynch kind of day.
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It was a David Lynch kind of day.
Kenzo's creepy-cool set. Photo: Imaxtree

Kenzo's creepy-cool set. Photo: Imaxtree

Sunday Funday started off with a morning jolt of caffeine from the folks at Kenzo (who offered audience member coffee and caramel popcorn in abundance). The clothes were energetic, too: pantsuits and mannish coats offered a more grown up take on Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's signature mashup. The fabrics were treated in cool ways: some were quilted, others were detailed with what looked like a rubberized overlay. Several of the collection's prints were inspired by director David Lynch, who designed the eerie set. (The focal point? A giant grey head with ghostly, hallowed out eyes.) He consulted on the soundtrack, too, which was a lineup of romantic oldies that could have been plucked from almost any one of his films.

A look from Maje Paris, the retailer's new high-end collection.

A look from Maje Paris, the retailer's new high-end collection.

Lynch followed us -- in spirit -- to the Maje presentation at Maxim's, where the "Twin Peaks" soundtrack was playing in the background. The contemporary label offered up a reliable selection of cool-girl separates -- an above-the-knee baseball jacket looked especially good -- but the big story was its new high-end line. Maje Paris, it's called, will be available at select retailers come fall. Designer Judith Milgrom has presented a range of upscale pieces that are aimed at the Maje customer who maybe wants one or two special items a season to fill out her wardrobe. Stephanie and I both eyed a cable-knit turtleneck, as well as a black canvas anorak trimmed in red fur.

There was plenty of fur at the Yves Salomon presentation, which is no surprise given that it's the foundation of the French company's business. But creative director Thomas Salomon -- who is also the son of Yves -- has incorporated a bit of ready-to-wear into the mix as well. The grey wool skirt suit with a fur collar impressed. But what we really loved was the patchwork coat in mink, raccoon and shearling.

A fine-wale corduroy look from Talbot Runhof's fall collection

A fine-wale corduroy look from Talbot Runhof's fall collection

Around the corner from Salomon's boutique is Talbot Runhof's store, where designers Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof took on corduroy. The duo's inspiration is always very specific and this time, political. The recent anti-gay movements in Russia and Uganda reminded them of 2009's "Corduroy Skirts are Sin" incident, when a Syracuse college student called out an anti-gay protestor, who was holding up a sign that said "Homosexuality is a Sin," for wearing an ugly wide-wale skirt. Talbot and Runhof decided to take back ownership of corduroy, making a "fashion no-no a yes-yes." They commissioned the best fine and wide wale fabric from Italy, using it in their signature lunching-lady silhouettes: a cropped corduroy top in rust was paired with a patterned ball gown skirt.

Buckle detailing at Nicholas Kirkwood.

Buckle detailing at Nicholas Kirkwood.

Next up was Nicholas Kirkwood, who is still working to outfit his girl from day to night. "I want her to be wearing our shoes beyond the cocktail party," he said. For evening, Kirkwood developed his own buckles -- the geometric shapes were inspired by the work of the Russian sculpture Naum Gabo -- and occasionally lined the bottoms of pumps with metallic blue or gold. The look was cool and elegant.

Chloe: Imaxtree

Chloe: Imaxtree

After running around from appointment to appointment, it was time to sit down for Clare Waight Keller's excellent Chloe show. "Stunning," was what Stephanie called it. Waight Keller, a master of outerwear, offered plenty of options in that department. Favorites included a lilac sweater coat worn over a winter white tunic and black culottes, as well as a wildcat fur bomber paired with a pencil skirt. The accessories at Chloe are always tops, and this season was no different: the softly structured rectangular handbag, carried as a clutch, was a standout.

I wrapped up the day with Tabitha Simmons's presentation, where the designer showed plenty of new takes or her classic styles. Must-buys included a black loafer with pink polka dots, and a range of quilted-leather pointy pumps and flats.

Of course, there was even more. Click on over to see the entire Celine collection.