After three days of classic tailoring, experimental new design, wild fashion parties and the usual chuckling from the tabloid press, London Collections: Men came to an end last night.
Each season, London’s menswear shows bring together the most traditional Savile Row tailors with the up-and-coming, avant-garde fashion graduates, with heavyweight names like Tom Ford, Burberry and Alexander McQueen. It’s a packed event with a lot of shows to process, so here we bring you the eight trends to take away for spring-summer 2015.
50 shades of pink
For men who’ve been tempted to wear pink but have never quite taken the plunge, next spring and summer will offer a plethora of options. The color was all over the London shows, but in a variety of shades: Lou Dalton, Topman Design and YMC gave a dusty, subdued feel, while Hackett went bolder with a salmon silk shirt. At Burberry it was straight-up magenta, head-to-toe – no messing around.
The elongated silhouette
There was a general swing towards longer silhouettes this season, led by Alexander McQueen with those extended coats, slashed at the hips. J.W. Anderson layered knee-length tunics over pants – not an easy look to carry off, but it’ll be a hit with the right customer. Astrid Andersen’s models went grand in a different way with floor-skimming kimonos.
Foils and metallics
The London man doesn’t want to go unnoticed – that was the subtext of the high-vis metallics that showed at Common, Xander Zhou, Nasir Mazhar and Richard Nicoll. For the most part they were crumpled like foil and worn as casualwear – but special mention must go to Xander Zhou’s formal silver jacket with matching skintight shorts. Party time!
The beloved bomber jacket is here to stay for next summer. The silhouette popped up in multiple interpretations, from McQueen’s printed biker version to Sibling’s skull jacket. It’s good news to see the item sticking around, as it’s one of the easiest, most wearable throw-ons for the season.
Checked all over
Checks were featured in several collections, from tablecloth gingham to the big and bold. At the more conventional end were Hackett and Oliver Spencer, who used large checks to liven up sports jackets. Richard Nicoll is known for his boiler suits –- this season he designed one in a cute micro-check that manages to look boyish despite being, well, a gingham jumpsuit. And in the print’s most avant-garde iteration, recent graduate Nicomede Talavera showed a paneled check tunic with a plaid shirt layered over it.
Wrap it up
For next spring, the chicest of men will have a little something slung around their necks. That was the word at J.W. Anderson, where blouses and sweaters included a built-in cravat. At Burberry, large cashmere scarves were printed with book cover illustrations and styled to dangle carelessly under jackets – as always, it’s best to look like you don’t care too much. Kit Neale went for a cheeky neckerchief, while Astrid Andersen used a scarf as a Keffiyeh, wrapped around the head.
Maybe it’s hard to avoid while designing a collection for summer, but designers across the board were making white the focal point of their collections. It had a surprising sportiness at Alexander McQueen, with models in sneakers and white, color-streaked suits. Craig Green used white to eerie effect with a show that reportedly had the front row in tears, and Lou Dalton kept it simple (and reassuringly tear-free) with well-cut, desirable casualwear.
Wild, wild West
Call it a micro-trend if you will, but there was a flare-up of Western references across the most unlikely of designers. At the most luxe end was Tom Ford, who spoke at his menswear presentation about the jeans he wears when he visits New Mexico – and also showed beautiful cowboy boots. Then at the younger, more experimental end of the spectrum, Katie Eary and Kit Neale both sprinkled cactus prints liberally over their collections. Two sides of the same mood, if you ask us.