Olivier Theyskens Parts Ways With Theory

Guess it's just plain old "Theory" now.
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Dhani Mau
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Guess it's just plain old "Theory" now.
Olivier Theyskens and Felicity Jones in Theory by Olivier Theyskens at the Met Gala. Photo: Larry Busacca

Olivier Theyskens and Felicity Jones in Theory by Olivier Theyskens at the Met Gala. Photo: Larry Busacca

Just three years after unveiling the first ever Theyskens' Theory collection -- to much buzz and critical acclaim -- Olivier Theyskens is parting ways with the New York-based label to "pursue other design projects," WWD is reporting.

Already a fashion darling for his previous work at Nina Ricci and Rochas, Theyskens joined Theory as artistic director in 2010 and has been designing higher-end runway collections for the contemporary brand since fall 2011.

However, this past season, things started to change. Instead of "Theyskens' Theory," a name that felt more separate from regular Theory, the runway collection was called Theory by Olivier Theyskens, representing the consolidation of both brands into one. Sources also tell WWD that the designer line was too advanced to resonate with Theory customers.

Of course, fall 2014 has yet to hit sales floors, so it's too soon to know if that re-branding was going to inspire customers to buy more than they were. It was a pretty great collection, and it won't be his last: Theyskens' swan song for Theory will be a resort range, which has yet to be unveiled.

Theory, a mass-produced, commercial American brand, was viewed as a departure for Theyskens, who had cut his teeth at more fanciful European fashion houses, so we won't be surprised if his next move veers a little more in that direction. And given how beloved Theyskens is in his own right, we're sure that the industry will be quite welcoming to whatever he winds up doing.