Karl Lagerfeld Plays With Orchids for Spring at Fendi

Floral motifs for spring are nothing new, but this collection felt fresh and oh-so-pretty.
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Dhani Mau
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Floral motifs for spring are nothing new, but this collection felt fresh and oh-so-pretty.
Fendi spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

Fendi spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

Every now and then, a runway show makes you feel feelings, and while I wasn't near tears or anything, Fendi was one of those shows. The music was beautiful — melancholy piano alternating with tribal music — as were the backdrop, the models (Cara, Kendall, Joan, Lindsey, Georgia May, Binx, Stam); and the clothes were, too.

Karl Lagerfeld said in the show notes that he was inspired by the famous Palazzo della Civilta Italiana in Rome, which he didn't travel too far to find —Fendi's Roman headquarters recently moved there there. The Palazzo, also known as the Square Colosseum, has a facade made up of nine rows of six arches. Similar arches made up the runway backdrop on Thursday.

The architecture seemed to inspire printed rectangular patches sewn horizontally and vertically on some pieces —arches subtly cut into ankle-length dresses and jackets with sculptural curves — while other design decisions were less obvious, like the oversized jodhpurs, skirts and leather jackets that looked like they'd been through a paper shredder and body-con skirts and dresses with nearly scandalous geometric cutouts. 

But most editors, us included, weren't too concerned with the architectural influences, but moreso with the pretty orchid-printed day dresses that opened the show, and a section of feathered dresses that came towards the end. They were just on the right side of the line that separates feathered dresses and bird costumes. One in particular, worn beautifully by Binx Walton (my current fashion month obsession), was pretty breathtaking. Other points of interest: The oversized cut-out leather flower hair accessories (see below); the leather eyeliner (more on that to come); and, of course, Kendall Jenner.

A Fendi spring 2015 hairpiece. Photo: Imaxtree

A Fendi spring 2015 hairpiece. Photo: Imaxtree

Architecture may have been a starting point, but the vibe I got was a dreamland of flowers and birds. Or maybe my fashion month exhaustion has just progressed into delirium.

Browse the whole collection below.