Hussein Chalayan Loves Leather, But Not Going to Other Designers' Shows

The Turkish Cypriot designer celebrates his ongoing partnership with VSP at the leather label's new Paris flagship.
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The Turkish Cypriot designer celebrates his ongoing partnership with VSP at the leather label's new Paris flagship.
A look from Hussein Chalayan's collection for VSP. Photo: VSP

A look from Hussein Chalayan's collection for VSP. Photo: VSP

In fashion, Turkey is known for three things: denim, leather and Hussein Chalayan. So it’s fitting that the Paris-based label VSP — which is in turn owned by Turkish-based leather makers Vespucci Group — has teamed up with the acclaimed designer to launch VSP Chalayan.

On Wednesday, the brand showed Chalayan’s spring 2015 effort at its new flagship in Paris’s Marais district. The designer opted for a color palette of black, white, nude and grey, mixing in perforated leathers and honeycomb laser-cut pieces. Ever the experimentalist, he eschewed the typical vertical placement of zippers, instead curving them around the pieces as a way to accentuate the body on soft, decadent leather pieces. On one sleeveless V-neck dress, zippers wrap around, enabling its wearer to change its form.“It’s about blurring the boundaries between textures,” said Chalayan. “It’s also blurring the boundaries between volume. The zips can reduce or increase volume, depending on the wearer’s desire. It’s as if there were this idea of seamless continuum.”

While the collaboration is only two seasons in, Chalayan’s relationship with Vespucci began nearly a decade ago when the company produced a few pieces for his namesake label. “VSP is a leather specialist company, and this was very compelling for me because [then] it wasn’t just a normal fashion collaboration,” Chayalan said. “We’ve been approached for years by other companies to do stuff and I always say no, even before knowing — most of the time — what the package might involve because it would be in conflict with my brand.”

Chalayan is also in the midst of putting on the final touches on his own label’s spring 2015 collection, which shows on Friday. When asked if he was going to check out other shows, Chalayan replied, “I never go to other shows. I have been once or twice, but actually I think it’s weird.”