Rodolfo Paglailunga Borrows From the Boys for His First Jil Sander Collection

And takes the socks-with-sandals thing to a whole new level.
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Dhani Mau
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And takes the socks-with-sandals thing to a whole new level.
Jil Sander spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

Jil Sander spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

For his first collection for Jil Sander, following Jil Sander herself's  third exit, former Vionnet creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga delivered on the crisp, clean minimalism the brand is known for – not that there wasn't newness. Menswear influences were big, seen in crisp button downs, tailored trousers and bermuda shorts. Boxy dresses and skirts with wide slits were more feminine, but still had a tomboyish attitude. Injections of sparse, geometric jacquards broke up the mostly solid color collection.

Things got most interesting below the knee, where leather flat and heeled sandals were worn over thick nappa leather socks. Yes, leather socks.

Some of it felt like minimalist Prada, who also showed sweater vests and knee socks this week, and who Paglialunga used to design for.

No matter, it was a smart, strong collection that got one of the most emphatic applauses of Milan Fashion Week thus far. I think anyone who was disappointed to see Sander leave (again) can rest assured that the brand is in good hands.

Browse the full collection below.