The Fashionista team is in London, bringing you the best of the collections across the pond. Follow along and read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways.
Most of the fashion flock had not yet arrived from New York on Friday, but the street style photographers and a number their fashionable subjects still headed to the Somerset House for Turkish-born, London-based designer Bora Asku's spring presentation. Asku looked to the world of dance this season — specifically to the Italian-Swedish ballerina Marie Taglioni — who was a well-known figure in the Romantic ballet era. And romantic it was: Asku put out a series of feminine, fanciful looks filled with lace and crochet. Intricate white embroidery covered a blue skirt suit, while another halter dress was heavy on the embellishments. The most dramatic look of all was no doubt the purple-veiled mourning dress.
Next I headed down the street and around the corner to Temple Place for Teatum Jones's spring '15 show. "Black is the color…" went the opening track by Nina Simone, accompanied by the soulful voices of a gospel choir. Simone also served as Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones's muse for the season, with her complex story translated on rich fabrics — including an anatomical drawing based on a vision Simone had before a 1968 New York performance. The show began with a series of sculptural looks in black with unfinished seams, perhaps an ode to Simone’s rough life. Next came a series of wonderful textures — gold print on white, jacquard, and lace. At times, the silhouettes felt too ambitious, and the unfinished seems contradicted the glamorous cocktail looks, giving way for a desire for something more refined.
It was back to Somerset House for Eudon Choi, whose spring 2015 collection was inspired by the elegance of artist Georgia O'Keeffe's delicate and feminine paintings. Soft pastels in the form of wispy dresses emulated O’Keeffe’s art, as did the floral prints on suits and trousers. Choi rounded out the collection with simple trenches, a long, sleeveless tuxedo jacket and versatile blazers in beige and black.
I returned to Somerset House again for Jean-Pierre Braganza, who looked to the beautiful decay of Detroit for his spring 2015 collection. I could see the influence of Detroit's Art Deco architecture imbued in the geometric color blocking of a monochrome palette of blacks, grays, gunmetals and whites. Braganza also made a semi-ode to the automobile industry there, which came in the form of a motorcycle engine print on a velvet bomber jacket and silk dresses and blouses.
I felt like I was going to an underground rave as I crossed the Thames and went through a colorful graffiti-covered tunnel to enter The Vaults, which was the space for Fyodor Golan’s spring '15 show. Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman's collection was just as lively, set against an upside down pyramid (provided by Microsoft) that displayed live-streaming imagery taken from the new Lumia 830 and Lumia 930 phones. Their collection celebrated digital romanticism — taking cues from artists Lucio Fontana and Robert Morris — set on a color palette inspired by '90s rave culture. The vibrant, electric hues dominated, and the sculptural striped dresses, which incorporated a football and poppy print, were among the best pieces.
I went back across the river for my last presentation of the day, Paul Costelloe. Costelloe must have taken a cue from the '50s, with rich blue, gold and jacquard on feminine empire-waisted babydolls, cocoon dresses, and chic trench coats. Although it wasn’t anything we haven’t seen before, his collection was timeless and pretty.