Highlights From Day 3 of Milan Fashion Week

Philipp Plein puts an orchestra underwater and Missoni does colorful stripes again.
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Dhani Mau
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Philipp Plein puts an orchestra underwater and Missoni does colorful stripes again.
Sportmax Spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

Sportmax Spring 2015. Photo: Imaxtree

Missoni

Missoni spring 2015 was meant to be a more relaxed, effortless approach and while the silhouettes might have been looser and more boho, it was still Missoni, which means rainbow colors and stripes.

The Missoni woman also chose not to bother with her hair this season, securing it up under a scarf turban for a very just-got-out-of the shower look when paired with a light, robe-like trench coat.

Sportmax

What are you to do when you’re a brand known for its outerwear and you’re creating a spring collection? Just do outerwear anyway, according to Sportmax. The brand, a more affordable offshoot of Max Mara, showed a chic, cozy assortment of jackets, coats and dresses. Silhouettes were, for the most part, wide and baggy, but pieces were given shape via knots at the waist — something we’ve seen quite a bit this season, and a season or two before that, as well. But I think that when these hit stores next January/February, shoppers will actually be ready for them.

Marco de Vincenzo

For spring 2015, One of Milan's few emerging talents (that actually gets a space on the calendar and pulls a crowd of editors) didn't look to any particular era or place for inspiration but instead focused on colors and fabric and new ways to manipulate it and make it move. The work was all in the detail: pieces of fabric woven together to create rich square patterns, little slashes in knits, sheer cut outs, sparkling embellishments, fringe. Each piece had a lot going on, maybe even a little too much for day to day life, though we imagine some modifications will be made before these pieces hit stores. Plus, a section of more pared down knit dresses had wider appeal, and also moved beautifully.

Versace

Read our review here.

Philipp Plein

There's not too much to say about young German designer Philipp Plein's spring 2015 runway show except that it took place underwater and there was a live orchestra. To clarify, there was black sand on the ground (like you might find on an ocean floor) and a rock-like backdrop onto which very lifelike b-roll of sea life -- animals, water, etc. was projected. The live orchestra played orchestral versions of pop songs from inside the ocean backdrop. And honestly, this was pretty tame for Plein. Last season saw real fire explosions and Naomi Campbell, while the season before that Iggy Azalea performed and all the models were black.

Will a day come that Plein is known as much for his clothes as he is for his stunts? This collection looked pretty decent and wearable, but the ideas were unoriginal and not cohesive (and had nothing to do with the whole underwater thing). Still, he's continuing expanding his business, having recently opened a store in New York.

Giamba

For his diffusion line, Giambattista Valli kept all the flouncy sweetness of his main line, but in younger shapes that his fans will love. Giamba's debut was mostly pastel with highlights of white and black, and one very dreamy mint green dress made of ostrich feathers. There were notes in the collection that will appeal to younger fans, like sporty jackets and micro mini dresses, while main line devotees will find a match in the lacy dresses. -- Steff Yotka

Agnona

Stefano Pilati's inspiration for his third Agnona collection? Ancient Egypt and "new bondage." There were curved slits like we saw at Fendi and unfinished hems like we saw at Prada, and those were just a couple results of Pilati's interest in fabric experimentation. His unlined suede, ultra light cashmere and extremely intricate lasercut details were all impressive, and will probably translate to some very high price tags for what otherwise looks like minimalist daywear.