It’s New York Fashion Week, which means the Fashionista team is running around town like crazy to bring you the best of what’s new from the city’s brightest designers. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways, and click here for even more reviews.
Read our full review here.
To debut her spring fine jewelry collection, Pamela Love opted for a dinner party cum presentation at the Spotted Pig's "test kitchen," a cozy (and somewhat secretive) third-floor space at the renowned West Village restaurant. As chef April Bloomfield cooked in the background, the designer previewed her new pieces to editors and a handful of her VIP pals, including Langley Fox Hemingway, Mara Hoffman, Ally Hilfiger and Jenne Lombardo.
Anyone who's been following Love's work over the years will recognize her classic motifs (arrowheads, daggers, astrology), albeit with a gemstone-encrusted update. The collection is small and tight, and geared to women who appreciate fine jewelry, but are looking for something a bit more unique and out-of-the-box. While a number of the pieces are based on jewels in Love's costume line, the moon face and window arch shapes are exclusive to the fine collection. However, the inspiration is similar. "I'm obsessed with the things I'm obsessed with, and that's not going to change," Love said. —Alyssa Vingan
Oscar de la Renta
Review to come.
Skingraft's spring 2015 collection was inspired by Santeria and Mexican prayer altars -- specifically, the elements of blood, smoke, earth and bone. But honestly, I was way too distracted by quite possibly the most random front row yet at New York Fashion Week. EGOT winner and "The View" host Whoopi Goldberg was snapping pics with fans, Rapper 2 Chainz was causing quite a commotion, EDM star Skrillex was holding court and a girl I'm pretty sure was Ally Hilfiger (based on my memories of MTV reality show "Rich Girls") was busy socializing.
But anyway, the clothes. Considering the FROW, it shouldn’t be a surprise that Los Angeles based Skingraft is a big hit with showy musical artists, including Nicki Minaj, Rihanna, Justin Bieber and Marilyn Manson. Considering the name of the line is Skingraft and designer Jonny Cota hasn't worn anything but black for the past 15 years, I was expecting eccentric, conceptual and made-for-editorial (i.e. weird) pieces, but the looks were actually very wearable in a non-alternative, sporty type of way. The white moto-cross jacket, black leather-piped mesh parka, shattered glass skinny jeans and leather v-neck t-shirt dress would be perfect for those of us who, once in awhile, want to pretend like we’re a little more subversive than we actually are. Hey, Skrillex was super into it. "It was awesome," he said after the show. "I'm so proud of these guys. I've known them from L.A. for a long time." Expect to see him wearing the blood flame print bomber behind the turntables this spring. -- Fawnia Soo Hoo
Earlier on Wednesday, news broke that Elie Tahari had sewn iPhones onto a dress for his spring 2015 collection and, sure enough, a model wearing dozens of iPhones stood on a platform near the entrance of Tahari's presentation, live-streaming the rest of the collection for the world. "By the way, we are live now," the designer said before I could interview him, leading me towards the dress.
But it wasn't just a gimmick to celebrate the release of the new iPhone: Tahari's inspiration for spring was a techno-shipwreck. "It's important because the new technology, it changes the seaming, it changes how you do things," Tahari said. "Technology is influencing fashion in a very big way. More than other industries, probably." The resulting collection was a mix of sun-bleached colors and mesh fabrics, which felt more casual than Tahari's typical workwear offerings. -- Tyler McCall
Review to come.
Diesel Black Gold
The stars motif that took over spring 2015 beauty made its way onto the clothing at Diesel Black Gold. Taking notes from glam rock, Andreas Melbostad crafted short and sexy looks that came covered in studs and stars or in hardcore silver leather or raw denim. The results tapped into the youth-obsession fashion is feeling at the moment. The most exciting pieces might have been the tiny vests worn with high waisted trousers – yes, the upper abdomen is still this season's erogenous zone – or A-line skirts. They captured the sexiness that Melbostad is known for (RIP Phi), while still having a clever fashion appeal. -- Steff Yotka
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Review to come.
Review to come.
It's a mod, mod, mod, mod world out there for spring, and Cynthia Rowley was not going to skip out on the fun. Rowley presented her collection of pastel minidresses, flare trousers and cutout tunics beside her activewear line, which was mostly black and gold.
The flare leggings blurred the line between the two collections – they were inspired by the brand's zip-back trousers form seasons past but made in a stretch fabric without the hardware "so you can actually workout in the ready to wear" Rowley explained. The wetsuits, too, are covetable to wear off the beach and the gold bike helmet – awesome! -- Steff Yotka
Azede Jean-Pierre is bursting with ideas, and out of them came looks ranging from minimalist tailored separates to ethereal knit dresses. Disparate as the clothes may seem, the collection somehow still felt cohesive. Jean-Pierre consistently finds inspiration in nature and this season that manifested literally in leaf and flower appliqués and leaf prints with crystals meant to look like dew drops. Less literally, there were scalloped hems reminiscent of flower petals. "I like the tongue in cheek and seriousness together," she explained. So do a lot of people, but Jean-Pierre actually does it really well. There were some truly beautiful clothes in this collection, which felt a bit more grown up than seasons past. We can't wait to see what she does next. -- Dhani Mau
MM6 by Maison Martin Margiela
The theme was "minimalist Tokyo cowboy" at Margiela diffusion line MM6's Chelsea presentation Tuesday. That meant: baby blue jeans overlaid with suede fringed chaps, buttonless denim skirtdresses--at once so simple and so precise--, a leather bandana-turned-tube top, patched paisley denim overcoats, and more. Satin pajama suits -- low-cut, with fringed accessories and oblique kimono references -- had Japanese urban/Western flare. Crisp shirtdresses with paisley patterns appeared alongside suede vests in massive oversized silhouettes. Shoes were a cross between '90s rave club platforms and traditional Japanese sandals.
All was shown in quick succession to a rather tech-y beat, with the house's signature white coated-staff on the outskirts. As is hopefully the case of MM6, the inspiration may have been rooted in country cross-continental kitsch, but the interpretation (see the repurposed, dressed-up old lady-esque slips) was firmly Margiela. We wouldn't be surprised if those club kid-styled Geta reached fashion kid cult status come Spring. --Ashley Simpson
Marilyn Monroe was the inspiration for Duchess of Cambridge favorite Jenny Packham's spring 2015 collection, and the results were quite sexy -- particularly the gowns, which were heavily beaded and called to mind the form-fitting stage and evening dresses Monroe wore for films like "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes." Hair was worn teased and curled Monroe-style, and the icon's voice was mixed with music over the loudspeaker, mostly clips from radio interviews. It was a direct and charming tribute. -- Lauren Indvik
Collina Strada designer Hillary Taymour made a name for herself in hip, unique, yet versatile, soft leather handbags made (relatively) sustainably. After a few seasons, she began experimenting with leather clothing, and not the typical jackets, but dresses and tops. This experimentation culminated on Monday with her first full ready-to-wear collection and presentation. “The line was about ready to get there,” she explained, adding that Made’s offer to sponsor her was the final push she needed. For spring, she focused on making the leather pieces more wearable and lightening them up with lighter fabrics like organza. This resulted in some of the lightest, coolest-looking leather clothing pieces I’ve seen. And despite the very hipster crowd at the presentation (there was a live band that involved two people — one with purple hair — turning knobs while barefoot on the floor), most of those pieces truly felt versatile, like there was something there for everyone. Made really knows how to pick ‘em. -- Dhani Mau
Read our Rodarte review and see the full collection here.
Vera Wang's speciality is bridal, and so it was no surprise to see many of the techniques used for wedding gowns -- ruching, pleating, passementerie embroidery, sheared chiffon -- applied to elegant effect on tailored black wool suits and short dresses. The suiting was followed by a handful of bejeweled baby doll dresses that seemed out of place in the collection, but came back into focus with a series of gauzy, darkly feminine floral gowns, some paired with cropped, sleeveless black jackets: a new way of dressing for evening. -- Lauren Indvik
Noon by Noor
The mood was very relaxed at Noon by Noor, where loose, billowy shapes ruled the runway. Floral inspiration took a darker tone here than other spring runways: Yellow and a deep aubergine color dominated, with an accenting pastel pink adding a soft effect, especially on a really pretty coat with beaded sleeves. Plexi flowers were sewn onto silver pieces, and silver and black flatform shoes grounded the look. —Tyler McCall
With Marie Antoinette as a starting point, "effervescence" was the word of the day in Badgley Mischka's spring 2015 collection. Even the separates were shot through with sparkle thanks to lurex. The eveningwear pieces were unlined, worn instead with just sparkly nude bodysuits underneath ("for modesty's sake," Mischka said with a smile), which created a really beautiful effect when the gowns were hit with light. Those gowns were the obvious winners here, but the pieces for day had their own charm: rendered in lightweight tweeds in creams and pastels, they'll be just as pleasing for the Badgley Mischka customer.
The collection nearly found itself upstaged by a guest appearance in the finale: Naomi Campbell, who took a spin on the runway with the designers to celebrate their brand's 25th anniversary. They've had a great year, personally and professionally, but despite their huge success, they're all about looking forward. "You don't think about it," Badgley said before the show. "Otherwise I know that it gets a little bit too heavy, so you sort of just [points finger forward]." Luckily, they've got this feather-light spring collection to lead the way. —Tyler McCall
Review to come.
J.Crew is back on point. Following an uninspired fall collection, Jenna Lyons showed a spring collection that combined many of J.Crew's best-loved signatures -- think striped shirts, sequined skirts, varsity jackets, anoraks and bleached denim worn with heels -- but done in fresh proportions and with a few entirely new elements. A casual parka was given a feminine finish in robin's egg blue, worn with a blue oxford shirt, a grey pleated skirt and gold heels (slide 1). Wide-legged cerulean blue trousers were paired with a crisp ivory shell top and a blanket coat (slide 2). Bleached jeans looked almost dressy with a high-waist and black pointed pumps (slide 3). Once again, Sophia Webster designed the shoes in pleasing, graphic patterns. It all felt very fresh, and very J.Crew. -- Lauren Indvik
Knits -- a growing commercial category -- dominated at Tory Burch's spring 2015 runway show at Lincoln Center's Avery Fisher Hall early Tuesday morning. The collection opened with a series of appealing geometric patterns on jackets, pencil skirts and shift dresses, inspired by artist (and Picasso's former romantic partner) Francoise Gilot. Those patterns became smaller, busier and less appealing as the collection developed -- in part because they were on uninspiring garments, like drawstring pants (see slide 4), in fabrics that didn't look particularly luxe. The collection ended on a better note, with a series of cream and navy basket-weave separates (slide 5) decorated by one of the biggest early trends of the season -- fringe -- and a linen coat and center-slit pencil skirt beaded in the shape of fronds. -- Lauren Indvik