It’s New York Fashion Week, which means the Fashionista team is running around town like crazy to bring you the best of what’s new from the city’s brightest designers. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways, and click here for even more reviews.
With their strappy stilettos and long, blunt-cut hair, the models at August Getty's spring show well could have been marching (very seriously) to the club on Friday night. There was something for every kind of party girl here: A sweet LBD with a sweetheart bustier that Ariana Grande would be all over, a silver flapper-ish affair that jangled with every step, a prom-appropriate floaty lavender dress, a very Balmain-looking minidress with one full sleeve and an exaggerated shoulder for frequent users of the word "fierce." Overall, not particularly boundary-pushing, but almost certainly a sales driver. -- Eliza Brooke
Known mostly for her bridal line, Monique Lhuillier was inspired by the colors of a sunrise for spring 2015, which resulted in a mix of soft, sheer pastels and stronger metallic accents. Separates with floral appliqués at times felt experimental for the brand, especially in the case of one outfit whose top had a floating train. It's still Monique Lhuillier though, so the gowns were the most successful pieces. One majorly memorable dress involved a gunmetal gray strapless bodice with soft pink tulle, which hit at a tea length and would be a perfect red carpet option for any of the starlets, like Sophia Bush or Hannah Simone, sitting front row.
The final gowns and finale walk happened under a downpour of iridescent petals, a rather pretty effect which, unfortunately, one can't help but associate with Burberry. -- Tyler McCall
For Nicole Miller, the theme for spring 2015 was "Flying Down to Rio," which manifested in unsurprising ways: Exotic florals and tropical fruits (like pineapples!) were splashed over everything from knit sweaters to sheer tops. Thanks to a basic color palette of -- you guessed it -- black and white, the brightly colored embroidery was able to truly pop, even when paired with a bold pattern. Oh, and ladies? Time to re-up that gym membership: Crop tops are still on trend in a major way for the upcoming warmer months. -- Tyler McCall
Brazilian designer Gustavo Carvalho presented both menswear and womenswear on Friday, though many of the pieces could have been unisex. He did best at pieces in playful prints, like matching crop tops and skirts for girls and short-sleeved button-downs with shorts for boys (it's clear Carvalho knows how to cut a men's shirt).
The winners here were definitely the casual sportswear, which seemed perfect for a summer bike ride. Jumpsuits with tie belts were especially cute. Where Carvalho tripped up was in too much detail: A dress with an uber amount of zippers, perforated leather crop tops and skirts with too much side ass. -- Tyler McCall
Our editor friends have been buzzing about Rodebjer for the past few seasons, likely because Swedish designer Carin Rodebjer’s loose, layered silhouettes look as cool as they do cozy. Her spring 2015 collection seemed perfect for city girls who love to get out of town once in a while, starting off with oversized suiting pieces in the sweetest baby pink, then evolving into more travel-friendly looks like gauzy white separates with fringe details, embroidered and tribal-printed sets in burnt orange and knits emblazoned with Egyptian eyes. While many of the looks were busy, it's the simpler, cleaner ones (including a pink, one-shoulder ruffled top paired with slouchy light wash denim and a fantastic woven blanket coat) that will likely latch on with Rodebjer's industry fans. —Alyssa Vingan
Misha Nonoo's star is rising. That's partly because she's a talented designer, and partly because she's so charming and warm and everyone is rooting for her. She also can provide a good laugh, as was the case during her spring 2015 collection show, when artist Dustin Yellin -- who designed many of the abstract prints Nonoo used in her collection -- trotted his hairy legs down the runway in one of Nonoo's designs. Eye-catching as those prints were, we liked the solid looks -- a silk shell top and full trousers in matching robin's egg blue, and an all-white ensemble in a similar shape -- the best: Not only were the silhouettes and fabrics sophisticated and beautiful, they looked invitingly comfortable to wear. -- Lauren Indvik
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Having drawn on grandmother dressing for previous collections, A Détacher designer Mona Kowalska turned this season to an equally nostalgic but much more youthful source of inspiration: Childhood. "There's kind of no bad taste when you're young, and there are no mistakes. I think that's a very nice position," Kowalska said backstage. "I think sometimes it would be nice to see more of that."
Oversized cotton separates were meant to evoke the feeling of being small, and a fluid navy cape worn sans shirt with a printed skirt looked like a grown-up version of that favorite dress-up item of aspiring superheroes and princesses. A series of mustard shifts and glittery navy cardigan and skirt were somewhat reminiscent of Rodarte's fall collection, which also focused on childhood dreamworlds. The brands' girls could well have been friends growing up. -- Eliza Brooke
New York-based womenswear designer Emily Saunder looked to a more debauched and rebellious influence for the spring 2015 collection for her namesake line Saunder. “The inspiration is this 1969 song, ‘Inna Gadda Davida’ by Iron Butterfly,” she said. “It’s thought to be the beginning of heavy metal music. From there, I was thinking about creating this idea of a rock ‘n roll Garden of Eden, with a ‘60s influence, with a touch of 'Valley of the Dolls.'”
The Jacqueline Susann novel-turned-Sharon Tate movie was evident in the bright, printed jacquard flared silhouettes, structured color-blocked mod shirt dress, soft pastels harking back to some sort of dopamine-induced haze (it's in the book!) and — quite literally — on a barbiturate pill-emblazoned sweatshirt. Sheer iridescent tops, louche gowns, and bright, in-your-face moto-jackets brought the rocker part of mix. Turns out Saunder is a true music fan at heart. “I’m a really big ‘70s rock ‘n’ roll fan,” she said. “Queen is my favorite band, so there’s always Queen playing at some point in my creative process. Seventies rock ‘n roll is my jam, but I listen to some Iron Butterfly as well just to get into the mood of things.” -- Fawnia Soo Hoo
Cushnie et Ochs
It's not unusual to hear a whistle or two during a Cushnie et Ochs show -- season after season, designers Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs send a mix of fitted, arm-baring, leg-baring and often cleavage-baring dresses and separates down the runway. But there were more than just date dresses to be had: There was, in particular, a shimmering, floor-length (and high-slit) blue silk dress that seems destined for the red carpet, and a shirt dress and a jumpsuit conservative and relaxed enough for the office. -- Lauren Indvik
It was a fully integrated collection, as they say, at the Trina Turk and Mr. Turk presentation Friday. On show were print and color-infused womenswear, menswear and accessories (shoes, jewelry, bags, and iPhone cases) for spring 2015. For the upcoming season, the print-loving designer started off with a poppy graphic and supersized it. “We built some more florals on top of that and added in some geometrics -- in both print and jacquards -- and then came up with this idea of ‘Pop Art Flower Mart’ because the geometric part of it gave it this pop art feel," said Turk.
But Turk innovated her signature print technique this time around. “We wanted to print on texture this season,” she explained. “So most things are not printed on a flat fabrication. If we have a print, it has something going on underneath that gives it a little more dimension.” The mood of the presentation was just as animated with co-ed trios of cheerfully smiling models clad in bright citrus-y hues, electrifying graphics, patterned jacquards, kaleidoscopic swirls and classic stripes on fit and flare dresses, caftans, maxi dresses and separates. The pom-pom-trimmed hooded cover-up and ‘60s patterned crop top and shorts set were especially fun in a beach party way. Plus, let’s talk about all the cute guys rockin’ some serious pattern, texture and color mixes. “It takes a brave guy to wear mixed prints,” Turk said with a smile. “But once he wears it he becomes the life of the party.”-- Fawnia Soo Hoo
Designer Rebecca Minkoff always puts together an experience during fashion week. But sometimes the spectacle pulls too much attention away from clothes, as was the case at Friday's show. Between a live performance by the (really great) band Little Daylight and the 3D glasses given to the audience for the final five looks, it was hard to focus on what Minkoff was actually offering for spring.
Perhaps that wasn't such a bad thing for this collection, which was filled with perfectly wearable and pretty but otherwise not particularly outstanding pieces -- lots of floaty pastels, banker blue cottons, and denim staples filled out the line. For the record, the 3D glasses did not make a huge difference for me -- and also, really, why would anyone want a 3D printed dress?
More criminal, though, was taking the attention away from the accessories, which are really the bread and butter of Minkoff's brand. There were loads of grommets on bags, wedges and open-toed booties, as well as layered fringe on circular cross bodies and clutches. Enormous straw hats were reminiscent of those Balenciaga Star Wars hats from fall 2012. -- Tyler McCall
Heavy layering isn’t something we usually expect for spring, but Nicky Zimmermann did a lot of it in her latest ready-to-wear collection. Of course, it was still sexy, ethereal and airy. But there was also a bit of darkness to it — likely the result of her inspiration: Tarot card illustrations by David Palladini and birthstones. There were a few billowing, ruffly dresses we could easily picture a fortune teller wearing, and while we respect her for doing something a little more dramatic, those light, airy, unadorned dresses were definitely our favorite pieces. -- Dhani Mau
Ease appears to be the key theme of the spring 2015 collections, and Tess Giberson was in step with an easygoing, California cool collection. A 1970s photo of a Palm Springs backyard swimming pool gave Giberson the idea to experiment with the juxtaposition of man-made water environments and desert landscapes by mixing synthetic and natural materials.
Giberson accented dresses and skirts with elegant pleats and opted for a color palette of white, metallic, pale blue, indigo and black. Revealing panels on a striped metallic pleated skirt and sweaters added a sophisticated sexiness, while sheer swimsuit cover-ups made for an easy transition from poolside to cocktail hour. Rich jacquard knit patterns appeared on track pants and shifts. The deep blues of a wave collage showed up as a print on tops, bathing suits and dresses, while macramé was prevalent in the form of blazer sleeves and tops. Giberson stayed true to her minimal aesthetic, and the relaxed Southern California vibe could be felt throughout. -- Ann Binlot
Showgoers applauded a bit more loudly than usual at the end of of Jason Wu's spring 2015 show, just hours after the designer announced that he had sold a majority stake in his company to investment firm InterLuxe, and that a flagship store is shortly on the way. Wu is clearly serious about business: Half of his show notes were dedicated to his new bags, the "Diane," a ladylike shoulder bag rendered in python and crocodile (and named for Diane Kruger), and the "Charlotte," a tote with neat-looking origami folds. As for the clothes: Wu promised elegant sportswear, and that's exactly what he delivered, in a tightly edited palette of burnt umber, navy, green and cream -- and one memorable red gown for the finale. -- Lauren Indvik
Is Wes Gordon having a minimalist moment? That was my thought until look six, when lace -- seemingly Gordon's favorite motif -- showed up. There were some excellent looks in the pared back collection: A columnar black dress that cut just a few inches above the ankle, styled with black pointed flats and a cream-colored jacket; a dress that resembled a double-breasted vest; and a softly tailored two-piece cream suit layered over a white knit. While the individual looks may have been good, they inevitably reminded us of other designers -- the black and white dresses, of Calvin Klein and Narcisco Rodriguez; the pink and white grid prints, of Chloé's and Phillip Lim's fall 2014 collections -- which leaves us wondering what the Wes Gordon look really is. -- Lauren Indvik
Kate Spade New York
Kate Spade laid down real live grass to present its spring 2015 collection, which Creative Director Deborah Llyod described as "fresh." Green, blues, whites and floral prints dominated the ready-to-wear, but far more attention-grabbing were the bags: There were clutches shaped like fish, crabs, snails and frogs, even a flower pot. What we liked best were the other accessories: Jeweled flatforms that reminded us of Marni's, and smart visors with bows on the back. We're pining for next summer already. -- Lauren Indvik
In an industry where trendiness is next to godliness, there is nothing more refreshing than an ode to timelessness. And even while tapping into what are sure to be the spring seasons's biggest trends (rainwear, anoraks, apron layering, muted colors and the casual), Peter Som still riffed on the classics. Sure, the street style stars and Hollywood starlets are likely to reach for the all-gold number worn by Soo Joo Park, but there was something truly delightful about Som's bold striped floor-length dress and the strapless tunic and easy white trousers that preceded it on the runway. And that red finale look? A true showstopper. -- Steff Yotka
Tanya Taylor, renown for her ladylike style and artsy prints, is getting sporty for spring. Her orange and blue-hued collection featured high cut tank tops, floral pencil skirts with athletic slits and plenty of anoraks and parkas. (Sidenote: We just want to call it now – the anorak is going to be the jacket of spring 2015.) Of course, there were still plenty of pieces to wear post-tennis lesson, too, like a tangerine sweater and skirt set or a black embellished minidress. We're also placing bets on which starlet wears look 22, a microknit dress with an upper abdomen cut out that fortifies the upper abs as the new erogynous zone. -- Steff Yotka
For her spring collection, called “City Bird in the Tropics,” Lyn Devon was inspired by memories of her childhood spent in the Bahamas, both the pastel colonial buildings and the wealthy older women — or as she put it, “turned out grand dames wearing heels and decked out even poolside, like Nan Kempner.” This resulted in a couple of truly gorgeous, but not overwhelming, original prints, including one covered in tropical birds and another with pineapples that was somehow the least cutesy pineapple print I’ve ever seen. It looked mature and tasteful in Devon’s sleek, timeless silhouettes.
Novis presentations are consistently a delight. There’s something about the combination of bright, cheerful colors; bold, geometric graphics, playful silhouettes and a laid-back atmosphere that makes for a wonderfully optimistic antidote to the seriousness of fashion week. Once again, designer Jordana Warmflash found inspiration in modern art: this time through Pop artist Tom Wesselman. In addition to her signature flirty skirts and dresses, there were some pants and cullottes, and, on the other end of the spectrum, some solid-color eveningwear. “We do a lot of celebrity dressing,” Warmflash mentioned. Indeed, obsessed-over pop star Taylor Swift has been wearing her designs left and right. “It has been very exciting, her and her stylist have been extremely supportive.”