The Fashionista team is in Paris, bringing you the best of the collections. Read on for our first-hand reports on the latest from the runways, including Acne, Comme des Garçons and Jean-Paul Gaultier.
For his first collection at Mugler, London-based designer David Koma wanted to start off with a "tabula rasa," the Latin term for "blank slate." Koma stayed true to Mugler’s heritage by using fine tailoring, particularly in the tuxedo suits. He added a jolt of energy through bolts of curvilinear silver and rose omega chain coils that lined seams. The designer highlighted erogenous zones through thigh-high slits on form-fitting silk gowns, revealing the midriff and décolleté through peek-a-boo keyhole cuts and plunging necklines. A fiery print added some pep to the otherwise solid color palette. Koma’s first outing for Mugler was chic, minimal, and maybe just the dose of fresh thought needed to invigorate this label. -- Ann Binlot
"I find youth's relation to luxury striking and I wanted to explore it," said Acne Studios Creative Director Jonny Johansson in his spring 2015 show notes. So for his latest collection, the designer created a jet-setting character with a DGAF attitude. Sporting oversized aviators, models walked the runway in navel-grazing v-neck dresses, vests and blouses paired with ironically bougie neck scarves. The artist Raquel Dias' photographs -- featuring clusters of fruit, lipsticks, cigarettes and the occasional nipple -- were printed on satin shirting and pants. There was more than a touch of humor here, but we bet shoppers will be totally serious about buying the strapless mini made out of a terry cloth towel. -- Lauren Sherman
Kristy Caylor decided to take a different approach to Maiyet’s spring 2015 showing. Instead of the conventional runway show or presentation, the designer opted to screen "Passage to Dawn," a series of five slow-motion video tableaux created with choreographer and dancer Benjamin Millepied, which featured costumes based on the collection. In a separate space, looks were displayed on grouped mannequins that reflected the five sequences in the film.
Each sequence was inspired by a different craft mastered by the label's artisan partners. Caylor found inspiration in dance, movement and surrealism. A grey hand-crocheted skirt and dressed showed off the work of Maiyet's partners in Peru, while hand-batiked fabrics made for tropical prints on a trench and a one-shoulder maxi dress. There was intricate hand beading and embroidery from India on a sleeveless crew neck dress. Some of the prettiest pieces were made from a delicate black lace, like a blazer with solid lapels paired with a slit skirt and boatneck top. The pride and passion that it took to create these pieces was clearly evident, and welcome in an industry that needs to be more geared towards sustainability. -- Ann Binlot
Nicholas Kirkwood wanted his spring 2015 presentation to be very "tight," as designers like to say. Instead of showing pre-collections and more commercial pieces, he kept the focus on high design. Inspired this season by the Japanese poster art of the 1960s and '70s, his artful showpieces were decorated with psychedelic kaleidoscope motifs, floral stenciling and origami. The shoes were bursting with color: Kirkwood's mint green, hot pink and cobalt blue were a refreshing antidote to the more subdued tones we've been seeing this season. -- Lauren Sherman
Jean Paul Gaultier
Click through to read our review of the designer's final ready-to-wear show and to see every look.
Comme des Garçons
Click through to read our review of designer Rei Kawakubo's spring show and to see every look.