Prada Gets Awesomely Depressing for Spring

It was a melancholy collection set upon purple sand dunes.
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Dhani Mau
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It was a melancholy collection set upon purple sand dunes.
The Prada spring 2015 runway. Photo: Prada

The Prada spring 2015 runway. Photo: Prada

Often, spring collections are about optimism and ease: The colors are brighter, the fabrics lighter, the florals in full bloom. Not so at Prada. Things were looking pretty dismal over there.

Guests entered a very dark room and climbed over steps to find purple sand dunes (made of real sand) at the center — a setting that felt post-apocalyptic as eerie music played through the speakers. According to a release, it was supposed to be “in between a cave, a desert, and an indoor playground.”

Our moods improved significantly when Gemma Ward walked out in the first look, but the clothes, while beautiful, were often in tatters. Many hems were unfinished and there was an intentional haphazardness to the way most looks were styled. The color palette was dark — grey, brown, navy, black and tan —and there were more coats, sweaters, leather pieces and turtlenecks than we tend to associate with spring. (Then again, spring clothes do typically hit stores in January and February, when it’s still cold.)

But leave it to Miuccia Prada to take such gloomy elements and spin them into a standout collection. As always, the craftsmanship was on point — Prada used brocades and patchwork techniques to beautiful effect, incorporating some key Prada signatures: Everything hit below the knee and there were smart secretary elements like knee-highs, clunky clog shoes and sweater vests layered over button-downs.

In all, it was a refreshingly quiet collection for Prada, who seems to have been toning things down since last spring's bright, ornate sporty-feminism collection.

Click through the gallery to see the full collection.