Rick Owens Takes on the Ballet for Spring 2015

But don't expect any tutus here.
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But don't expect any tutus here.
A look from Rick Owens's spring 2015 collection show. Photo: Imaxtree

A look from Rick Owens's spring 2015 collection show. Photo: Imaxtree

"Clomp, clomp, clomp," went Rick Owens's models down the spring 2015 runway, wearing platforms with big chunks of wood carved out to create what looked like an extreme tread. The shoes served as a way to ground Owens's weightless looks. The designer was inspired by "L'après-midi d'un faune" from the Ballets Russes, which depicts a faun that chases nymphs, snaps up one of their scarves and masturbates with it. "Primal urgings in a setting of rigid discipline," was the way Owens described it in the show notes.

As to how it played out on the runway? Those shoes could have doubled as faun hooves, to be sure. But really, it was about taking traditional materials to an unexpected place. Owens pleated tulle into origami shapes, and added geometric inserts of rough wool or tie-dye denim to sheer dresses. Many of the sheer pieces were worn over basketball shorts and tube tops, which Owens called "rational" pieces. "Rational" may not be the best way to describe those layered tulle dresses, but "beautiful," "ethereal" and "desirable” certainly work.