For his first proper pre-fall show for Dior, Raf Simons took his collection to Tokyo on Thursday. And while he didn't take much literal inspiration from Japanese dress — there was nary an obi belt or kimono to be found — the looks had a boldness and futuristic feel that seemed to fit with Tokyo, a city of fashion risk-takers.
"Blade Runner" was one source of inspiration, and Simons told the Financial Times that he was inspired by the "attitude of the Japanese towards fashion" and wanted to use Tokyo as a setting to "push the collection further."
That he did: He mixed colors, patterns and textures more than ever before, layering leather, embroidered wool and fur dresses over sequined turtlenecks. Sweater dresses are sculpted and manipulated. Knee-high platform boots in bold colors replace the dainty single-soled shoes Simons did when he started at Dior. He reinterpreted the "Bar" silhouette in a number of different ways. Simons also went pretty far with the beauty look this time with short, thick black lines above and below the eye that made the models look like dolls, and hair sculpted into braided pigtail loops.
We're surprised by how winter-focused the clothes are, given that pre-fall collections are delivered, well, before fall. Every look but one featured a turtleneck, and they were styled with coats, pants and boots without a sliver of skin exposed. Apparently, fake snow even descended onto the runway as the models walked, in a scene befitting of the current climate in New York.
Browse the full collection below.