Zac Posen Focuses on Wearability, the '70s for Pre-Fall 2015

A more business-minded Posen talked us through the pre-fall collections for his main and diffusion lines.
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A more business-minded Posen talked us through the pre-fall collections for his main and diffusion lines.
Photo: Courtesy Zac Posen

Photo: Courtesy Zac Posen

For pre-collections, instead of staging a runway show or an informal press preview, Zac Posen holds intimate presentations in his studio, during which models walk out individually as he talks about what each of them are wearing. It's old-school and fun. I've only been to a few of these, but Posen's talking points are usually about fabrics, colors, glamour and the red carpet. While he covered those things on Monday, he also threw in terms like "buy now wear now" and "double-digit growth," as well as giving price points for several pieces. The "double digit growth" mention was in reference to the accessibly-priced handbag range of his diffusion line, ZAC Zac Posen, which he showed alongside his main line.

Perhaps his new role working for a company as massive and commercial as Brooks Brothers has made the designer, who's known for gowns that can barely fit down a runway, more commercially-minded. This showed in the clothes, too. There were gowns, of course, but they were less voluminous and more understated and wearable than usual — to great effect. He also focused on function, doing one red carpet-worthy gown in Neoprene "because she can sit down in her car." Posen also showed more daywear than ever before, a category he says is growing. Might Posen's roster of celebrity clients soon partake in that section of his business? Perhaps: He told editors that a particular wide leg pants and pussy bow blouse look was one of Rihanna's favorites during a recent studio visit.

In addition to a refreshing softness, the whole collection had a subtle '70s tinge —something we're continuing to see a lot of — but still felt very "Zac." We were partial to a painterly polka dot-printed chiffon gown with buttons down the front of the bodice and small ruffles at the hips, seen above.

You can browse the full collection below.