Hanako Maeda, ADEAM’s astute designer, has her own opinion on desirability. “As a woman, I think it’s sexier when there’s a little bit of mystery,” she declared backstage after her fall 2015 runway show. Putting that into a fashion context, her protective pullover sweaters, turtlenecks and long skirts covered up a lot of skin this season, but the improved tailoring also framed the body in more sensual ways. “I’m allured by this idea of not revealing everything,” she added. So what was that one model wearing underneath a black and navy mink jacket? A tiny gap between its hem and a pair of decadent thigh-high boots — created by recent CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner Paul Andrew — offered a flash of flesh, but the real answer remains unknown.
Maeda did, however, confess to a love of oversized pieces. Of those, her most attractive was a cosseting turtleneck knit dress. In white with fraying ends, it looked simultaneously pure and peculiar. “Organic chaos,” she called it. But that disarray offered a delightful freshness. Asymmetrical lines counterbalanced the precision of her piped pocket skirts. Bustier tops were covered with a soft felt, and curly shearling was bonded to a buttery leather skirt. “I love doing that visual play where everything looks aligned but it’s slightly off,” she said.
The result was arguably the designer’s most clever collection to date. A deft collaboration with musical mastermind Michel Gaubert especially enhanced her story. Melodically, how do you blend the twisted with the traditional? Maeda wanted Jamie XX’s steely sounds to accompany her nuanced, energetic sportswear, then Gaubert proposed that they add Vivaldi to highlight the more elegant pieces. So when a cascading strapless dress made its way out, the tone felt exactly right.