Fall 2015 marcs (see what I did there?) Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier’s third collection as design director and creative director, respectively, of Marc by Marc Jacobs; and with it, it appears they’ve firmly established the new Marc by Marc girl. She’s young, she’s fun, she’s subversive and she’s a rebel.
Slogans returned for a third season: for fall, “SOLIDARITY,” “SUFFRAGETTE” AND “OUR CHOICE” were the choice phrases emblazoned in large print down the sides of pant legs and sleeves, on the hems of dresses and on little neck scarves. I couldn't help but think of Chanel’s feminist protesters from last season, but instead of holding signs, these girls wore their objections to the status quo on their sleeves. Accessorized with studded boots and creepers, miniature tough leather fanny packs and decorated berets, the models' walk across the fake grass runway was hard, fast and defiant (so hard, one model’s bag fell off and remained in the middle of the runway for almost the entire show). Their attitude, underscored by messy, dirty-looking hair and imperfectly applied dark eyeliner, helped to convey that message of protest. Even Kendall Jenner, who we're sure has her own frustrations, managed to pull it off. Of course the awesomely aggressive soundtrack -- T.Rex's "Children of the Revolution," Public Enemy's "Fight the Power," M.I.A.'s "Born Free" -- probably helped get them into character.
And while at first glance the clothes might seem too daring for, say, a customer shopping the MBMJ section at a department store, a closer look reveals a number of individual pieces that would look extremely desirable on a rack. Among them: several simple tailored wool coats in army green, grey and black, thick blazers shaped subtly like fencing jackets, and a cropped wool coat, all of which felt like potential wardrobe staples.
Three seasons in, Hillier and Bartley have shown that they know how to put on a fun show, but it remains to be seen whether they're able to come up with new, interesting variations on their established themes for the many collections to come.