Francisco Costa Finds New Ways to Channel the '90s at Calvin Klein

His spring 2016 collection was deconstructed yet glamorous. And really good.
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Dhani Mau
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His spring 2016 collection was deconstructed yet glamorous. And really good.
A look from the Calvin Klein spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

A look from the Calvin Klein spring 2016 collection. Photo: Imaxtree

According to the show notes, Calvin Klein's spring 2016 collection was called "the morning after." (Sounds like Francisco Costa and Marc Jacobs were thinking alike.) As the girls walked, they projected the same attitude I might the morning after a long night. Their hair wasn't done (obviously it was, but the models appeared to be sticking with their natural textures), their faces were bare, their walk was relaxed and their clothes hung loosely on them as they stomped around in sneakers. Basically, they gave zero fucks. However, they looked amazing.

That's because they are models, but also because the clothes were so beautifully done. The first looks were reminiscent of sleepwear — slip dresses that felt reinvented in viscose with straps hanging from the shoulders, silk trousers that recalled pajama pants and loose outerwear that looked robe-like. As the show went on, the fabrics became slightly heavier, though even the leather slip and apron dresses and trench coats seemed light as a feather. There was a fluidity to even the most layered, deconstructed looks.

For Costa, the collection seemed to be an exercise in contrasts. It was sexy yet classy, deconstructed yet elegant, minimalist but layered, glamorous but casual. Favorites included a white apron dress over a white T-shirt and a sequined floor-length slip dress that had an attached white silk bra underneath. Paired with sneakers, it embodied the collection's effortlessly cool, '90s-inspired vibe. It's a vibe so many designers try to encapsulate, but very few are able to do in a way that feels new. Alexander Wang is one, and, with this collection at least, Costa seems to be another. Browse the collection below and see what you think.