8 Labels to Watch at Milan Fashion Week

Here's who you should keep your eye on — besides Prada, of course.
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Dhani Mau
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Here's who you should keep your eye on — besides Prada, of course.
Backstage at Gucci's fall 2015 show. Photo: Imaxtree

Backstage at Gucci's fall 2015 show. Photo: Imaxtree

Two down, two to go. As is tradition, Milan Fashion Week kicks off on Wednesday afternoon, and we're fresh off a redeye to document it all. In addition to Alessandro Michele's sophomore outing at Gucci, we've rounded up seven other brands you should keep your eye on (and that we'll be closely covering) over the next six days. We've left out obvious big names like Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, because there's never a season they aren't worth checking out. Just don't let them overshadow these guys.

Gucci

If you couldn’t tell by the ubiquity of Gucci's furry loafer mules (among other recognizable pieces from the brand's fall 2015 collection) in street style roundups since fashion month began, the industry has been quick to embrace new Creative Director Alessandro Michele's retro vision for the Italian fashion house. But this season is when we'll begin to see the designer's vision truly take shape. Gucci just unveiled its new store concept under his direction in Milan; and with the exception of those observing Yom Kippur, everyone's excited to see how Michele kicks off Milan Fashion Week on day one.

Philipp Plein

New York has Marc Jacobs, London has Burberry, Paris has Chanel and Milan has… Philipp Plein? If we’re talking about the level of runway spectacle, it's true. Plein consistently puts on the week's biggest, most elaborate and shocking show — not to mention, the most expensive. This time around, we hear it will include a performance by none other than Courtney Love. Does that mean we're in for a grunge-inspired collection? We'll have to wait and see, but also, it doesn't really matter.

Moschino

Second to Plein in terms of buzz and spectacle is Moschino, directed by Los Angeles-based designer Jeremy Scott for four seasons now. His tenure at the Italian house has not been a quiet one, and he has even more eyes on him now than usual thanks to a new documentary about his Moschino debut, which just hit theaters. We're sure he won't fail to take advantage of the additional spotlight with something memorable, like a star-studded front row or iconic-themed collection — or why not both?

Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli

The fall 2015 shows in Milan were plagued with rumors of creative director shake-ups that turned out to be true: Peter Dundas left Emilio Pucci to take the top job at Roberto Cavalli, while MSGM's Massimo Giorgetti replaced him (while holding onto his own line). Both will stage debut runway shows for their respective new employers this week, and we will be watching to see if Cavalli gets an all-star model cast — and whether Pucci inherits some of MSGM's effortless cool.

Iceberg

We'll admit it, we didn't pay much attention to Iceberg the past few times we covered Milan Fashion Week. The label is not easy to find in the U.S., and … I mean, how often do you even hear about it? But, we perked up upon learning that Arthur Arbesser had taken the creative lead earlier this year. We were obsessed with his presentation two seasons ago in Milan — he certainly has the fresh eye needed to turn a label you weren't interested in into one that you are.

Damir Doma

Croatian-born Damir Doma has relocated both his men's and womenswear shows from Paris to Milan this season. He brings his innovative and artistic design approach to fashion month's most traditional city, where it will likely stand out much more.

Daizy Shely

Israeli designer Daizy Shely is the latest designer to be chosen by Milan's "King of Fashion," Giorgio Armani, to show at his theater space during fashion week. She joins a small (particularly compared to New York and London) but promising group of young designers who are getting buzz in the city, most of whom have been hosted by Armani one season or another.