Emilio de la Morena’s show today was full of the staples we’ve come to expect this Fall 2013 season–pleated skirts, heavy fabrics, oversized overcoats, and masculine trousers. There was a boxy flannel jumpsuit, some super sexy cut-outs, and a hefty dose of boiled wool.
But what set this collection apart was the innovation de la Morena applied to these seemingly basic pieces.
J.W. Anderson’s show was entitled “Semiology of the Self.” Now we don’t want to talk semantics, but this had us a little intrigued. The show notes were just as complex, describing the show as “an examination of cacophonic chemistry, reconciling opposites through textural bipolarness in order to achieve hypernormality, the new normal.”
The Paul Smith show was an exercise in color blocking–primarily in navy, fuchsia, and burnt orange. Loose wool trousers (there were many in this collection) were incredibly well cut, as were blazers and overcoats. The things Sir Paul does well, he does very well.
As we entered the Royal Opera House for the Matthew Williamson show, there was definitely something special in the air: The entire venue had been scented with roses, in a nod to the floral prints that adorned silk shirts and pleated full skirts in some of the first looks.
The Richard Nicoll collection in one word? Workwear. From the boxy trouser suits with low, pointed heels to the grey shift dresses and cocoon overcoats, this was a collection for the working girl.
The show notes promised a collection inspired by Oscar Niemeyer’s “Brasilia,” the city constructed entirely in swirling, sculptural concrete in the late 1950’s. An interesting reference, and one that lends itself incredibly well to the master of architectural clothing, Antonio Berardi.
The Kinder Aggugini ticket promised us a “typically eccentric and gothic forest” setting on the top floor of the newly opened ME Hotel. We didn’t see much evidence of set design (bar a few ivy plants) but the show definitely had an interesting theme. Aggugini took inspiration from two young British girls who in the 1980’s forged evidence of fairies in their back garden and gained nationwide fame.
London design duo Clements Ribeiro showed this season a pretty, punked-up mix of the pieces they do best.
Margaret Howell’s show this morning was everything we’ve come to expect from the minimalist brand with a cult following – simple, chic, muted and boyish.
The Daks show notes promised a collection inspired by Charlotte Rampling, the androgynous sex symbol and timeless style icon for girls who love to dress like men. Slouchy tailoring was the theme of the day, and creative director Sheila McKain-Waid did not disappoint in that regard.
Punk was definitely in the air at the Moschino Cheap & Chic show this afternoon. It was in the thumping soundtrack, the black lipstick, the models’ piercings, and even in the audience. We counted three full size neon mohawks, about 50 nose rings and unlimited tattoos before the show even started.
The miumiu-london, billed as a “private women’s club” at the historic and newly reopened Café Royal, is was the It-club in London. It was only open for three short days–and closed for good yesterday, November 29.
We were lucky enough to score an invite.
