Author

Alice Pfeiffer

Posts by Alice Pfeiffer

Reviews

Ann Demeulemeester Spring 2012: Spiritualists in Shades of White

By Alice Pfeiffer Friday, Sep 30, 2011 / 8:42 PM

Did Ann Demeulemesteer go on a spiritual quest through the desert recently? This is certainly what her collection felt like when a leather hat and kohl eyeliner-wearing Karlie Kloss walked down in sheer black layers inspired by traditional men’s caftans.

The show was like a hybrid of neo-gothic wear and several tribal references. Tassels usually found on classical Moroccan scarves were paired with a kimono-like jacket. The silhouettes were slouchier and sexier than usual: wide pants and wide tops, subtly revealing a shoulder (or an entire pair of breasts), under a seemingly demure, practical garment (for erm, those of us about to take off on a bra-less hike on Mount Sinai?)

This was also one of the few times where a good chunk of the collection was white. It first appeared on dresses in a tie die manner where black faded into white; she then played up the shade to the max and offered full white looks: baggy silk pants with a matching off-the shoulder top and cape–all with a touch of black, on a dangly leather necklace or a headband.

When Ann rocked out to say hello, it became clear that she probably had been on that spiritual trip. Instead of the shy, furtive woman we’re used to, a smiling, fresh-faced Ann came out with long wavy, highlighted hair. It was one of the highlights of the show.

**All photos via Imaxtree

Reviews

Manish Arora Spring 2012: Amazons From Outer Space, Complete with Tea and Hookahs

By Alice Pfeiffer Friday, Sep 30, 2011 / 8:26 PM

Manish Arora was his usual theatrical self, and delivered a show as entertaining as it was finely crafted.

It kicked off with one of Pedro Almodovar’s favorite actresses, Rossy de Palma, in a holographic cocktail dress, leading a troop of girls in embroidered, sci-fi gear fit for an Amazon from outer space. She led them right to some tables laden with tea pots and hookahs, after which they got up and walked around on the runway.

Carved wooden cages mimicking a mannequin’s chest became fierce armor, and frou-frou dresses gave the silhouettes an eccentric feminine touch. “It’s for women who want to move, run,” the designer told us backstage. Yet the biggest novelty for Manish is a definite paring down in terms of color palette: flesh tones and black & white patterns were recurring yet novel components of the collection; garments were a tad more wearable, and many straight leg jeans were on show.

This is a big season for Manish. In a couple of days, he will present his first collection for Franco-Spanish house Paco Rabanne. The latter, once famous for his lavish, over-the top clothes, later received more press for his firm belief in life in outer space. (He became infamous for his false prediction of the Russian space station Mir falling on Paris in 1999). At least Manish shares Paco’s taste for futuristic aesthetics.

It’s also a good fit because Manish values old school craftsmanship: having products made locally by hand was always a priority. Manish will make his garments in France and also at his atelier in New Delhi “because some standards only exist back at home.” Bring it on, Manish!

**All photos via Imaxtree

News

New Online Fashion Mag Nowfashion Publishes Editorials in Real Time

By Alice Pfeiffer Tuesday, Jul 19, 2011 / 6:00 PM

Photo: Valerio Mezzanotti, Nowfashion

PARIS–New fashion site Nowfashion takes the best qualities about the internet–speed, instant gratification, insider-y-ness–and applies it to fashion. They publish runway shows in real time and today, they’re publishing their first ever live photo shoot (which is being followed via Twitter and Facebook by the Vogue Paris team, a colleague tells me).

I found out about the website, when, (please don’t tell), I was desperately looking for images of a show I had missed, which I was supposed to cover–Nowfashion saved my (splendid) bottom–and I could file an hour after the show.

After a little bit of research, I found out the team hiding behind it: the site is in fact the love child of New York Times photographer Valerio Mezzanotti (whose photos most often accompany Cathy Horyn’s stories), and fashion consultant Valerio Nappi, in collaboration with ID’s Sarah Hay (who also writes for Financial Times).

After delivering live runway coverage for two seasons, Hay and Mezzanotti decided to hold online shoots. The first one took place today in a studio in Bastille, Paris; it was shot by Valerio, and styled by hip British stylist Natalie Yuksel.

Do you want to see editorials live as they happen? Or marvel at them frozen on the pages of glossy magazines?

Haute Couture

Paris Couture: Day 3

By Alice Pfeiffer Thursday, Jul 7, 2011 / 5:00 PM

One more day to go and we all get to catch on sleep. In the meantime, here is a quick catch-up on what Paris has wearing, watching and attending on the third day of couture week.

Erin Wasson + Zadig & Voltaire:
Yesterday, at Paris’ Park Hyatt hotel, the Texan model launched a capsule collection in collaboration with French label Zadig & Voltaire. Neo-rock n’ roll, leather, studs, jersey–exactly what you’d expect from both Erin and Zadig. If Agyness Deyn can sing and Daisy Lowe can DJ, why can’t Erin design?

On Aura Tout Vu:
Paris-based but Bulgarian-born duo Livia Stoianova and Yassen Samouilov make clothes that are as non-commercial as they are fun; no wonder their main clients are Lady Gaga and French Cancan dancers. Yesterday in the gardens of the Palais Royal, they held a presentation themed around skeletons and bling bling. Not typical dining wear, but ideal if you want to make a lasting impression at a party.

VK Lillie:
Fashion photographer turned jewelry designer Kira Lillie presented a line of Native American medicine bags made with her mother, Vanessa. The presentation was held at the exclusive and elegant members club Don Cross and drew in a highly enthusiastic Diane Pernet, one of Kira’s biggest fans.

News

Paris Fall Couture Shows: Day 2

By Alice Pfeiffer Wednesday, Jul 6, 2011 / 2:30 PM

What better to spice up a couture day than a juicy Chanel rumor and advice on how to wear leather without looking like a hooker?

Chanel Rumor: While waiting for the Chanel show to start last night, I bumped into a friend of mine who is also a very good source. “Have you heard?” she whispered (this is the best way to get my attention), “this is apparently Karl’s last show. Which is why it’s so late.” (2012 is rumored to be the year of Karl’s retirement, but Chanel has vehemently denied this.) I couldn’t sit still in my seat with excitement. [Ed. note: We contacted the Chanel US press office for comment, but have yet to receive a response.] As for the show, it was as flawless and entertaining as always, but also packed with Coco references (bows and tweed)–a secret sign perhaps? Let’s keep our ears open for update.

Loewe made to measure: Yesterday, Stuart Vevers presented Loewe’s first bespoke line of clothing and handbags–ultimate, old-school couture in other words. Most of the collection consisted of all-leather pieces. How to wear leather and not look like a demented dominatrix? “Sometimes, you should embrace that,” he said with a laugh, “and only wear exquisite leather of course!”

Concerts in Colette’s water bar: Anyone in need of a quick fashion break before running off to the Givenchy presentation? Colette is there to help. During couture, the boutique has heard our need for a five minute detox, and decided to help with two hours of concerts and drinks in its water bar in the basement of the shop. A notable performance was delivered by mega hipster band La Femme: six boys, one girl, plenty of keyboards.

I left Colette feeling ready for more custom-made hemlines and handbags.

**Photo by Imaxtree.

Haute Couture

Paris Fall Couture Shows: Day 1

By Alice Pfeiffer Tuesday, Jul 5, 2011 / 6:00 PM

PARIS–New week, new fashion week–although the male collections were only 30 seconds ago and we’re still feeling sleep-deprived, couture is dragging us out of bed.

The entire city is sartorially obsessed for the week, and as if catwalks weren’t enough, heaps of exhibitions, openings and launches become mandatory.

Here is our selection from the first day:

Hussein Chalayan’s Retrospective: The Cypriot designer opened his Swarovski-sponsored retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs last night, one complete with a dozen short films–some found, some made–and designs ranging from robot dresses to couture gowns; a lifetime in fashion, in other words.

Maison Martin Margiela: In their showroom’s decadent gold and white interiors, gaffa tape, seat belts, and sport socks came marching down. You’ve guessed it: this is their artisanal line, one that uses only recycled, preferably totally random materials and accessories. Miles away from luxurious silks and cashmere usually on couture runways, luxury according to Margiela is about plastic coats and sticky tape. (See a gallery of the collection below.)

More Martin Margiela: It was Margiela’s big day yesterday, as it also held the opening party for its…hotel. Yes, the Belgian house entirely designed and revamped a hotel by Champs-Elysées, creating trompe-l’oeil and black and white interiors for an Avengers feel.

Acne Paper Holds a Secret Launch: Last night, a crowd of 50 toasted over the launch of Acne Paper’s latest issue and their arrival on the French market. Like the magazine, it was so elegant we wanted to weep: the Ritz gardens, toasted almonds, champagne and live violin music by stunning 25-year-old virtuoso Charlie Siem. Acne’s spotless universe in a nutshell.

Menswear

Last Day of Men’s Spring 2012 Fashion Week: Will.i.a.m Models For Rynshu and Acne’s Impeccable

By Alice Pfeiffer Monday, Jun 27, 2011 / 7:00 PM

Rynshu

Men’s fashion week ended with two remarkable performances, which reminded us that a) male models are always a pleasure to watch b) this is basically a modern woman’s show c) couture week is minutes away and we’ve still got to recover from the fashion overdose of these past days.

RYNSHU:
The Japanese designer always puts on a black and white, fearless yet elegant show. This time, he followed the same recipe and offered warrior like clothes: scarves, blazers with sleeves seemingly ripped, silver army boots. But Rynshu had a surprise for us–front man of Black Eyed Peas Will.i.a.m modeled the show, as a sign of sympathy for Japan’s current condition. And there is more–the designer and the singer will be launching a collection together, entitled “WILL I AM x RYNSHU” for the SS2012 season. Unfortunately not made for lovely lady lumps.

Acne

ACNE:
Acne presented its second male catwalk in Paris as a concluding note to Paris fashion week. And we hate to gush, but it was rather impeccable–both the show itself, and the collection, which was crisp and precise. The theme was functionality meets ’70s Sweden: think suede baseball caps matched with simple turtle necks, baseball jackets followed by colored lapels. And as always, plenty of champagne served before and after the show. What more can you ask for?

Click through for more images from the Acne collection.

**Acne photos courtesy of Imaxtree.

Menswear

Gender Studies: Bernhard Willhelm + Petar Petrov + 22/4 Men’s Spring 2012

By Alice Pfeiffer Monday, Jun 27, 2011 / 6:45 PM

Willhelm

To some extent, every fashion week is always a gender studies class: each collection always questions norms and archetypes, and forever reinvents their own personal ideals. Yesterday, three presentations offered their own definition of masculinity, for three very different results.

Bernhard Willhelm:
As always, the show was his over-the-top, insane, as theatrical as it is unwearable. This time, Willhelm seemed to push for a masculinity midway between a bodybuilder and Jesus: plastic crowns and bare, spray-tanned midriffs dominated the show–to the sound of a female bodybuilder singing with a mouthpiece, pouting and posing. Both terrifying and hilarious.

22/4

22/4:
In between shows, we dashed by the discreet, elegant showroom of German-based brand 22/4. The designer works on unisex clothes, and offers lines which are identical for both genders, with tiny changes to fit hips in. “You always want to borrow your boyfriend’s clothes, but in practice, it never works.” She said. For an-almost-boyfriend-jeans look.

Petrov

Petar Petrov:
Young and mature, the designer offered a grown-up, stylish collection composed of earth tones on deep blues, jersey and paper-thin calf skin. The silhouettes consisted of subtle layering, shorts and suits. Simple, wearable, timeless, and a tad retro for a Talented Mr Ripley look.

Menswear

Julius + Walter Van Beirendonck + Boris Bidjan Saberi Men’s Spring 2012

By Alice Pfeiffer Monday, Jun 27, 2011 / 2:50 PM

Julius. Photo: Imaxtree.

PARIS–Bras, quiffs, and six-packs: three shows, three sartorial universes, three very different boys. One thing they have in common? We could happily wear most the collections ourselves. Read more »

Menswear

Issey Miyake and Alexis Mabille Men’s Spring 2012

By Alice Pfeiffer Friday, Jun 24, 2011 / 3:00 PM

PARIS–It’s always fascinating to see how one dominating trend can lead to such varied re-interpretations. No need to tell you this fashion week’s leading look is 1950s yacht wear: blue, white and Moët. Yet two shows yesterday offered a radically different way of going on holiday.

Issey Miyake: Although the house’s new menswear designer hasn’t been revealed
yet, the collection was nevertheless Miyake-like and modern, including ultra baggy pleated trousers worn with light jackets for a soft, relaxed suit look. There were black and blue printed pants, paired with earth-toned jackets. Those were accessorized with panama hats and plastic bow ties, resulting in
a silhouette both mature and lighthearted. In other words, something that suits your dad and your boyfriend, too.

Alexis Mabille: Mabille’s collection was galaxies away from Miyake’s (and probably won’t suit your boyfriend – unless he likes to run around in nothing but zebra-print handbags and Y-fronts). Indeed, the show was sponsored by French male underwear company HOM (best known for bringing thongs into masculine wardrobes). To set the tone, the show kicked off with a strip-tease down to the models’ underwear, followed by much ab-ction: swimming wear, bathrobes, but also this season’s beach-look: white and blue, but tight, zipped, and layered. Mabille in a nutshell? As Alexis told us backstage, “Pretty boys, pretty body, pretty underwear – simple, non?”

**All photos by Imaxtree.

Menswear

Laitinen Men’s Spring 2012: Hard and Soft

By Alice Pfeiffer Thursday, Jun 23, 2011 / 10:13 PM

PARIS–Sibling sister duo Tuomas and Anna created Laitinen in 2006 in their native Helsinki. Their style is a mix between soft prints, dark goth-ish references and sharp tailoring. This season, they are now only working on menswear “because a lot of women wear our clothes anyway–the lines were so close,” Tuomas told us. The collection, presented in a showroom in Paris’ Marais district, consists of suits produced with old-school Italian textile developers, and functional pieces reinterpreted with offbeat fabrics: football jerseys in paper thin silk and silver thread or hockey shorts made out of leather. “We like to rethink male archetypes and contemporary uniforms”, said Tuomas.

Menswear

Christian Lacroix Men’s Spring 2012: The Past is Past

By Alice Pfeiffer Thursday, Jun 23, 2011 / 10:01 PM

PARIS–Needless to remind you that Christian left Lacroix in 2009 due to financial difficulties, (which were mainly because of its costly couture line).

Last season, the house relaunched, led by Sacha Walckhoff, the founder’s assistant of 17 years, who had heavily contributed to just about every department of the brand.

Now working only through licenses, Lacroix launched a menswear collection last season that were miles away from Christian’s once theatrical designs: wearable, elegant, the former’s designer’s loudness appeared only in discreet touches, on linings and collars.

Last night in Lacroix’s flagship boutique in Paris’ left bank, Sacha presented a full-blow runway show, but a humble one nevertheless. The interior, currently going through renovations, had bare walls and floors, and felt like a chic squat party. On
the outside, a simple sign hung stating “Lacroix: work in progress.”

The collection offered a functional line of suits, simple tops, and trousers, with references to the house’s glorious 80s: three quarters cycling trousers, cropped denim jackets, complete with crystals sewn onto jackets or pasted directly onto skin.

There was also a recurring use of quilted leather on which floral patterns were imprinted; these were used on jackets, but also sleeveless tops tied through a shoelace-like system at the back.

“This season, we had time to work with artisans,” Sacha told Fashionista at the end of the show, “and focused on traditional techniques and finishing.”

A little early for Lacroix to have a catwalk show? “It’s a crazy I know, but it felt right, especially in this space,” he said. Couture, or even womenswear, yes, that might have been too early–but menswear didn’t seem to infringe on Christian’s territory. “The past is the past. This is simply a new chapter beginning.”

**Photos by Imaxtree.