The setting for the Roksanda Ilincic show was unabashedly English–a series of small, elegant drawing rooms (which were connected by a runway) made it feel very intimate and a throwback to another era. All I needed was a tea trolley. But the clothes were definitely of this day and age.

Think slouchy “sweat pants” and hoodies made of cashmere. Fur was casually draped over arms and shoulders, providing a luxurious counterpoint to casual silhouettes. Ilincic got creative with color combinations, pairing burgundy and sky blue. My favorites were the looks where she kept it simple–white with a black linear pattern and some long cream dresses read as casual yet elegant at the same time, a sometimes hard combination to master.

Photos: Imaxtree

Simon Spurr, whose expert tailoring is often showcased alongside denim, had a surprise for us, just minutes before his show began at Milk Studios on Sunday: “There’s not a single jean in the collection this season,” he revealed. Instead, Spurr offered a crisp, business-like selection that took its cues from a Robert Frank photograph of London in the 1950s. Spurr said he was striving for “a more elevated look.”

Spurr achieved his aim. With Joe Jonas and Kellan Lutz seated in the audience, the show began with pieces tinged with mauve, and small, glistening touches. Silver buttons on his jackets glimmered along with umbrella handles, helping his looks cut a cool, collected path down the runway. The designer keenly focused on fabric this time around, flaunting his new found love of mixing materials (leather sleeves on a wool suit) and patterns (a check meeting a hound’s tooth). The British proclivity for overbearing checks, stripes and prints came to fore only rarely, and these instances were easily surmounted by the conservatism displayed by the resolutely “elevated” items that far outnumbered them.

Spurr’s offerings were a little on the cold side, yet sophisticated without being snobbish, and cool without dumbing itself down. The designer has indeed kicked things up a notch for Fall 2012.

photos by Thomas Kletecka

I can’t lie. As I took my seat for the Monique Lhuillier runway show at Lincoln Center, I couldn’t help but imagine Beyoncé Knowles emerging from a one-month maternity leave as I recalled that black sequined frock of Lhuillier’s the diva wore to her husband’s performance at Carnegie Hall. As the show started, I could see why Ms. Knowles, known for her exquisite curves (made even more exquisite by her recent pregnancy) chose a look from Ms. Lhuillier to make her reappearance. Lhuillier’s fall collection is definitely something a shapely gal could get into.

From printed frocks with ladylike cuts and hemlines, to slinky red gowns, Lhuillier’s fiery fall offerings are perfect for the Coke bottle body. Cinched waists were accessorized with leather belts; red and ink black leather panels swerved on bodices and hips, creating an illusion of curvaceousness for women with more modest frames. Flame-orange frocks complimented smoldering black separates. Ash gray dresses and jackets looked great with soot-black shearling coats and floor length, lace-adorned gowns. Lhuillier turned up evening looks with a generous helping of sparkle.

As the show went on, it was clear I wasn’t the only one impressed. You could hear utterances of emphatic approval from audience members, especially for the more dramatic evening looks.

Click through the gallery to see the full collection!

** All Photos courtesy of IMAXTREE **