Chanel’s runway show sets are always inventive and extravagant, but Spring 2014 was a world apart. A makeshift gallery was set up in the Grand Palais, the walls lined with Chanel-inspired art. There was a robot made out of a life-sized Chanel No. 5 bottle. A massive slingshot crafted out of colorful Chanel tweed. A Read more →
Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller has only been with the house for two years, yet she has slipped so easily into the role that the collections have truly progressed naturally. At first, she kept close to the house’s heritage, referencing the work of Karl Lagerfeld in the 1970s, but slowly adding in sporty elements that spoke to her tomboy style. (Duffle coats, pleating and the house’s signature scalloped hems have all helped define her early tenure.) But this season, something changed. The clothes still looked like Chloé, but they looked like Waight Keller, too.
Kenzo designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim asked their audience to trek to La Cité du Cinéma, a movie studio complex in the Parisian suburbs, for their Spring 2014 runway show.
When a fashion brand has a social mission, that mission often overshadows the actual clothes being designed. Since its founding in 2010, Maiyet—the New York-based luxury line that taps artisans from across the globe to build its ready-to-wear, handbags, shoes and jewelry—has been determined to make sure it did not suffer a similar fate.
This season, under the creative direction of cofounder Kristy Caylor, the line finally feels like a quiet contender.
Musicians at fashion shows? Sure. Opera singers at fashion shows? Never have I seen this. Yet, there he was, belting “Out to Sea,” the poem first performed by Swedish tenor Jussi Björling in the 1950s.
It was fitting, given the nautical nature of Acne designer Jonny Johansson’s spring collection. “I have always been surrounded by water where I live,” he said in the show notes. “We ended up with a collection based on our roots and with a lot of marine and workwear references.”
Nicholas Kirkwood has had an intense couple of weeks. The British shoe designer, who founded his line 2004, announced eight days ago that he would be entering into a partnership with LVMH. The luxury conglomerate now owns a majority stake in the company.
That’s a big change, but at his Spring 2014 presentation on Thursday, Kirkwood seemed calm as ever.
The Munich-based design duo Johnny Talbot and Adrian Runhof are best known for their red carpet-ready dresses, so it’s no surprise that for spring, they were inspired by one of the world’s great performers: Barbra Streisand.
Heavily embellished corsets, dresses and tanks offset the masculinity of the collection, and gave it the strangeness expected—and needed—from the house of Margiela.
For Spring, Marant gave her loyal followers plenty to be inspired by, turning out one of the more fun and cohesive collections I’ve seen from her in a while.
To build his spring collection, Roland Mouret thought a lot about Daniel Buren’s transformation of the Palais Royale in 1986. The artist’s abstract installation, Les Deux Plateaux, which is a cement grid marked by columns painted with black and white stripes, was quite controversial at the time. “It was about deconstruction, contradiction, a clash of colors,” Mouret said before the show this morning. “I never want to be too safe.”