To quote Marisa Tomei in My Cousin Vinny, “No, there’s more!” Head to our Sophie Theallet’s Franco-American draped dresses, Reed Krakoff’s neon cellophane-y separates. It’s the last day, soak it up while you can!
Hannelli Mustaparta Stars In Net-A-Porter’s Fall Ads: The stylish blogger joins Annabelle Dexter-Jones, Atlanta de Cadenet and Shala Monroque for the sale site’s “real people” campaign. {WWD}
Editorial Musical Chairs: Fact: WWD reports that Chris Dixon, design director for New York mag, is going to Vanity Fair. Rumors: Brides VP and publisher Carolyn Kremins might go to another Condé mag and EIC Millie Martini Bratten might exit the company, while Lucky VP and publisher Michelle Myers might be ousted by Bill Wackermann, their executive VP who also heads Glamour, W, Bon Appétit and Details. {WWD}
Models Don’t Really Make Much Money: A former model speaks out about the inconsistent pay and difficulties faced by unknown models who don’t land Victoria’s Secret contracts or Vogue spreads. {NY Times}
From Runway to Rack–How Department Store Exclusives Happen: Big retailers usually ask designers for exclusive colors or cuts from their runway looks– here’s how they make their wares stand out. {WSJ}
Five years ago we never would have said this, but: we were actually really excited to see what Tibi’s Amy Smilovic had up her sleeve this season. Really.
Lately, the designer’s cast her fourteen-year-old line in a new light, abandoning its hold as a Milly or Rebecca Taylor competitor. Instead of collections that are perfectly pleasant though always predictable, Tibi’s stepping into new territory: sharp blazers and strikingly full skirts, rendered not in flimsy fabrics, but luxe materials that merit a rising price tag (last season, a more lavish cocktail dress neared $800). The brand’s aiming for a different niche: stuff Olivia Palermo might wear, or at least, the kind of stuff that looks like it. Which makes sense, as the socialite, fashion darling, and soon-to-be website mogul is now the face of the brand.
Michael Kors went on safari for spring. He called his collection “Afriluxe” which made me cringe a little since much of Africa is decidedly not luxurious. Beautiful, yes, but luxurious? No. The parts that are luxurious are more often than not available only to rich tourists and a very small sliver of the population. Kors said in his line sheets he was inspired by the “rustic modernism of the Lebombo Lodge,” which the Times‘ Eric Wilson notes is $1,500 per night, per person.
Wilson also said the collection looked like “hillbillies on safari.” Ouch. I wouldn’t go that far. While the line sheets might have read a bit cringe-y the collection did not. In stark contrast to the bright grass greens and hot pinks of last year’s collection, this one was done in earth tones with the occasional bursts of sunset hues and set to a version of Adele’s “Rolling in the Deep” mixed with drumming.
Alice + Olivia is all about fun fashion, and Tuesday night’s presentation was a perfect example of that. As DJ Mia Moretti spun pop hits, accompanied by violinist Caitlin Moe, revelers—including the likes of LeAnn Rimes, Jordin Sparks, Tinsley Mortimer, Corinne Bailey Rae, Michelle Trachtenberg and Nicky Hilton—hit the bar (stocked with plenty of Veuve and Belvedere). Waiters with blended drinks from The Coffee Bean were also on hand offering fashion types a much needed boost of energy during a long week of shows.
The presentation’s backdrop was equally entertaining. Models stood on a large, raised square of Astro-Turf in the center of the Meatpacking’s Highline Stages, underneath large white gazebos and bird cages. Our favorite prop was a large tree in the center of the presentation with the brand’s candy colored shoes dangling down from the branches. “I wanted it to be a very secret garden,” said Stacey Bendet, who got into the spirit by wearing colorful flowers and feathers in her hair. “There are a lot of flowers and it’s just supposed to have this very kind of fun, happy uplifting feel,” she said. The cheerful looks channeled Palm Beach in the 1960’s with poppy colored shifts, floral maxi dresses, jersey jumpsuits, and a striking pair of black and white striped wide legs that Bendet does so well.
This latest batch of shows are perfect for your feminine side. Go to our Fashion Week page to read the full reviews from DKNY, who served up some piping hot patriotism, Tracy Reese, who has the girly-girl totally covered with flirty romantic frocks, and Lela Rose, who paid homage to Sin City’s neon signage.
They’re bringing out the big guns now. If you head to our complete Fashion Week page, you can revel in the Warholian-prep brights from Tommy Hilfiger, bask in the sunrise glow of Jen Kao‘s Hawaiian prints and Japanese cuts and just try to choose a favorite from Charlotte Ronson‘s mash-up of mod inspirations. It’s just Read more →
Cathy Horyn Ruffles Feathers Again: Horyn published a “must-see” list of shows for NYFW, which included many young designers but left out several big name players like DVF and Oscar de la Renta. Some were indifferent, but more than a few felt slighted. {WWD}
Franca Sozzani Thinks Dior Should Hire John Galliano Back: The Italian Vogue editor says, “ I understand [Dior's] point of view…and they couldn’t just say, ‘Bad boy! We forgive you! Come back!’ But it’s really a pity. And I will never believe he believed what he said.” {The Daily Beast}
ANTM All-Stars Starts Wednesday, Tyra Still Crazy: If this commercial is any indication of what’s to come this season, we can expect it to be a totally engrossing shitshow. {Fashin}
We’re rolling (in the) deep with the shows right now, and this latest batch is quite spectacular. Hop over to our
If there was ever a case for opposites attracting, it’s NAHM. For their sophomore collection, designers Ally Hilfiger and Nary Manivong produced an intricately crafted line–again, based upon their shirtdress foundation–that ran the gamut from floaty delicate cotton shifts to woven silk cocoon dresses that.
The inspiration was Belle du Jour and the Parisian ex-pats who traveled to Laos in the ’70s, which Manivong and Hilfiger explored through four themes: repression, exploration, freedom and rebellion. It’s interesting to note how the different techniques of the two designers meshed. Nary’s Laotian-American roots are evident in the traditional Laotian prints used in silk drop-waist and bell-sleeved dresses while the wispy white cotton frocks clearly bear Hilfiger’s feminine touch. Though these looks might seem contradictory, the close attention to detailing creates common threads: each shirtdress and button-down is restrained by a sharp triangular collar while those with more of a T-shirt cut bear large bows. The result is a girly yet louche style that will be a definite hit among the younger urban set.
It seemed all of lower Manhattan got their freaky dressing on last night to celebrate the opening of Nicola’s, Nicola Formichetti’s pop-up concept store with BOFFO Building Fashion. The black-leather-filled line that snaked up Walker Street held enough silver studs to decorate a Hun army, and I counted no fewer than six people with primary-colored hair all before even entering MI-5, the uber-cool bar next to the pop-up where Thierry Mugler parfums was throwing the celebration.
The outfits themselves weren’t the only unusual sight. Rarely do you encounter a store in the middle of Tribeca with an interior of fractured mirrors and a giant panda in the window. But that’s Formichetti for you; the Thierry Mugler designer and Gaga stylist is always mixing it up.
So how did it all come about?
“Boffo approached me and asked if I’d be interested in opening a store,” Formichetti told us. “And I was like, ‘Well, it’s not like I’m not busy.’
As the night wore on (and a monsoon raged outside), Surface to Air revelers made their way from the store’s new flagship to the late-90s staple B Bar on Bowery. By the time we got there, we were soaked to the bone, but somehow all the lovelies and trendsters miraculously managed to stay fresh and dry through their transit. Another 90s reference of the night–lots of guys toting bulky backpacks, which got to be kind of a bitch navigation-wise as the bar got crowded.
We spotted Surface to Air co-founder Jérémie Rozan schmoozing with his party people, plus DJ/fashion girl Mia Moretti, Genevieve Jones, and Emily Weiss (who did a drive-by for some champers and photo ops), editor of the Fashionista-awarded “Best Fashion-y Beauty Blog” Into the Gloss. Kid Cudi himself stopped by later, along with Chromeo, who performed for the pumped up crowd.
On our way out, to our pleasant surprise, we bumped into James “PJ” Ransone. Who, you ask? Well, hipster subway commuters may recognize as the denim-clad guy in those Opening Ceremony x Levi’s ads, but fans of The Wire know him as tragic, trigger-happy longshoreman Ziggy Sobotka.
