Forever 21’s done it again. The mega-chain’s been sued over fifty times for design infringement and yet they still manage to settle out of court.

This time around they’ll be writing a check to Trovata. Forever 21 made almost $600,000 off the striped tees, sweaters and blouses they ripped off down to the last button. Between that and legal fees and other damages we can’t even imagine how much they agreed to pay Trovata to make the brand go away - and keep them quiet.

Aside from the money, the settlement means there won’t be any admittance of wrongdoing, copyright or design infringement. Their first trial ended with seven jurors siding with Trovata and one holding out which we’ll go ahead and interpret our way. Forever 21’s scared to go back to court, given their still technically clean slate, because once they lose a single trial the floodgates are officially open.

So whoever sues them next, don’t settle!

Denise Williamson’s been a part of New York’s fashion industry for almost twenty years.

She made it through FIT, worked in house at Calvin Klein, fooled around with showroom ideas, networked her way into one of the most successful PR and branding companies in the city and now runs the showroom, Williamson PR and Williamson Consulting.

Our discussion was meant to revolve around her day to day life, but instead it took a few philosophical turns into the state of the fashion industry and what she sees in the future. Of course, we also talk about her clients, including Trovata, Jen Kao, Kimberly Ovitz, Raf by Raf Simons and Madeleine Thompson, her kid and the fun parts of working so hard.

We’ve made it abundantly clear that we love Montauk and Mr. Mickey.

And this Sunday the 5th, the two shall come together for the Paper mag editor’s second annual Celebrity Sidewalk Sale at Screaming Mimi’s.

The shindig is co-hosted by Peter Davis, Charlotte Ronson, and Emma Snowdon-Jones and will feature loads of merch from people like Catherine Malandrino, Julia Frakes, and Lynn Yaeger.

Plus, the money goes to charity:water which builds freshwater wells in developing countries. We actually had no idea that it only takes about $5000 to give water to a whole village for 20 years!

So shop away, friends. We just wish we were going to be out east too. But ‘tis wedding season and we’re off to another one in Ann Arbor come Friday.

The Trovata v. Forever 21 case may have ended in a mistrial, but it seems the beauty world (in Europe at least) is a step ahead in protecting designer brands.

WWD reports that the European Court of Justice ruled for L’Oreal and against three companies that were knocking perfumes owned by the cosmetics giant, including Trésor, Anaïs-Anaïs and Noa.

Not only had the companies created facsimiles of the scents, but also the bottles and even the outside packaging. Really, does it get more blatant than that?

Obviously, I’m no legal expert and I do realize that there are different trademark laws, etc associated with fragrances as opposed to clothing. But, regardless, it is refreshing to see legal protection being offered to a company whose resources, knowledge, and creativity are the reason the product exists in the first place.

If only we could just throw a little of that legal justice Trovata’s way. Sigh.

Jury deliberations began Friday in the Trovata/Forever 21 court case over allegations that Forever 21 purposely copied specific elements from seven designs in Trovata’s collections.

WWD reports this morning that the California jury has informed the judge that they are currently unable to reach a decision. They’ve asked for clarification on some legal points and will resume deliberations today. If they can’t reach a decision, there will be a mistrial.

We’ve been very clear about where stand on the general issue of infringement on intellectual property and really hope for a decision in this case that upholds designers’ rights.

But we’re not surprised to hear that the jury is deadlocked, considering the battles that ensue within our own comments section every time we do an Adventures in Copyright post. (Yes, we do read them. Each and every one.)

However, what’s this we hear of possible jury misconduct on the case? That sounds like something out of a Grisham novel, not a fashion intellectual property trial.

UPDATE: The U.S. District Court judge presiding over the case has just declared a mistrial due to “irreconcilable differences” and dismissed the jury.

The best bit of everything we learned this weekend: Trovata’s popping up.

We were in Montauk for Sergio Rossi’s dinner in honor Alexandra Richards’ Social Life cover, which was held at Sole East, when we learned that the back of the hotel will soon play host to a Trovata pop-up shop.

It’s kind of the perfect fit for John Whitledge’s nautical surf line and makes us worry about the damage it’ll do to our wallets.

What’s more dangerous than a beach town with nothing but beer, homemade ice cream, Tracy Feith, Screaming Mimi’s and Trovata?

Trovata sued Forever 21 two years ago - the mega-store’s 50th lawsuit in three years - and finally heads to court next month according to WWD.

The California based brand targeted seven styles of shirts directly copied from their runway including a striped cardigan with multi-colored buttons, a white ruffled blouse and a rainbow striped polo - some of which even boast a replica of Trovata’s actual label on the inside.

They’re suing under trade dress infringement since copyright laws still only protect prints and patterns and the CFDA’s Design Piracy Prohibition Act is stalled, but a Manhattan judge already chastised Forever 21, “We note the extraordinary litigating history of this company, which raises the most serious questions as to whether it is a business that is predicated in large measure on the systematic infringement of competitors’ intellectual property.”

On the one hand, we’re kind of impressed Trovata was even on Forever 21’s radar circa 07 but on the other, we hope they kick their ass.

Yesterday’s intimate Trovata show made me wish I was on the beach in California, with candles and boys who actually dress like that.

John Whiltledge might not be leading a fashion revolution, but he consistently presents clothes that everyone wants to wear. This season that meant slouchy cardigans and prairie blouses, skinny black pants tied with satin ribbons at the ankle, white Katharine Hepburn pants, suspenders, bow ties and navy blue slip dresses.

The models had trouble navigating their X walking pattern, most of them broke into smiles before they made it backstage, which made the clothes all the more appealing.

One got the feeling the Trovata racks at Barneys this fall will be as frequented by the Kate Schelters and Amy Astleys in the front row as the hipsters in standing.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

There’s a battle brewing in the Fashionista office - is it normal, as in do you, receive compliments differently based on who’s dished them?

For example, if it’s Fashion Week and I’m surrounded by ridiculously well-dressed editors and buyers and one of them takes a moment to acknowledge something I’m wearing, it means a lot.

But someone else in our office was recently regaled with a shower of compliments in regard to his style by someone who makes Mary-Kate circa 2004 look polished. While he wanted to mean his “Thank you” with all his heart, he couldn’t help but take a second, rather confused look at his J.Crew meets Trovata outfit.

So, is a compliment a compliment no matter what? Or does its relevance change based on who’s doing the complimenting?

And before you jump to say this is ridiculous or snobby, think about something particular to you (if you don’t work in fashion). If you’re a writer, you’d take comments from your favorite author or journalist to heart more than one from the guy you’re dating who can’t take the time to spell out “your” over g-chat; If you’re an artist, you’re going to pay a lot more attention to what a curator or gallery owner says than your little sister, right?

And if someone whom you don’t necessarily want to love your style does, will you actually go so far as to change it?

Memo:

The Rogan/Loomstate sample sale is pretty amazing.

I was in there for under 30 minutes today, and walked out with gifts for my brother, my boyfriend, his mother, his aunt, his sister and his cousin (annnd for myself), and my spending hovered around $200. Yes, most of the good finds are tangled in cardboard boxes on the floor, but when Rogan’s super soft tees are marked at $20 a pop, casual shopping is quickly displaced by borderline aerobic work.

So if you have several hard-to-shop-for people on your holiday list, we suggest hitting this sale up, because nobody scoffs at a perfect little tee.

PS We also stopped in Odin on the way, where a pretty decent sale’s quietly carrying on from previous weeks. Trovata shirts are finally marked at $109 and less, and there are many choice items (though mostly tops) for under $100 waiting to be scooped up by serious shoppers.

So basically, go downtown.

And for more sales, Shop Your Heart Out.

Chace Crawford may have no idea who he is, but at least everyone else does -

Alexander Wang took home the CFDA’s biggest prize last night, flanked by runners-up Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock of Vena Cava, and Albertus Q. Swanepoel of Albertus Quartus.

Wang now joins the ranks of past winners Proenza, Trovata, Doo Ri and Rogan to go with his two years of mentorship, not to mention the $200,000 to grow his business. So between his CFDA award and his Shu deal, Alex should be rolling in it like Scrooge McDuck.

Money jackets a la Jeremy Scott for Fall 09?

Four years ago, when they were still a quartet and I regularly drooled over their rack at Barneys, Trovata teamed up with Vans on a pair of limited edition, corduroy and leather Eras. They came in a wooden box and had sneaker heads and yours truly scrambling to pick up a pair. I missed the boat because I couldn’t shell out hundreds of dollars on eBay for them, but I still think about them til this day.

And so, I’m conflicted about seeing a nearly identical pair on Urban Outfitters this weekend.

On the one hand, I finally get to have the pair of shoes my younger self would have sold my soul to have, and better still for a mere $55 (sadly, those are not my feet, at left). And yet, I think I would see John Whitledge’s face staring back in shame every time I looked down at my pretty low tops.

So, what to do? Do I pick up the shoes and run (after all, the originals cannot be purchased anymore)? Or remember them fondly and stick with my beat-up authentics?

Also, it’s weird that Vans is really just reproducing an old Vans shoe that a designer made for them, expect, without the designer name. Think Whitledge is getting a paycheck for these?

—BRETT KANE

Or the more appropriate question is, “Will you wear spring’s head gear?”

The runways have been inundated with hats. Catherine Holstein wrapped whole sweaters around the heads of her models. PPQ added I Dream of Jeannie-like toppers to their ruffly dresses and Luella splashed retro veiled hats and riding caps across her floral outfits.

We think some, like the sweaters at Holstein, might look super cool on the runway but stop short of realistically working on a regular girl’s head. Same goes for the PPQ hats - they’d induce a giggle or two at the even the most wacky New York party. And the swim caps at D&G - are they serious?

Luella’s little hats, while cute on Ali, Jourdan et. al, are the kind of thing we want to rock when we’re eighty-year-old eccentric ladies with a murky fashion past.

Right now, we’d love one of the sun hats from Trovata and Nicole Farhi, or even a mini Mary Poppins hat from Marc. And we’d obviously rock the giant bobby pins from Basso & Brooke, but we’re not even sure those are for sale.

If you don’t usually wear hats, will this spring’s wide selection make you change your mind? Or is this a look better left to runways/editorials/ads/models rather than mere mortals?

Fact: Reed Krakoff, the President and Executive Creative Director of Coach, is also a photographer.

Fact: Reed and Simon Doonan, the God of Barneys, are friends.

But did you know Reed just finished a book of portraits on professional fighters, Ultimate Fighting Championship?

Yes, fact.

We assume some fighters will be showing up to the launch party in at least Trovata, since it’s being thrown by Simon and Radar at Barneys in a couple weeks.

And yes, this is probably the last time we’ll mention wrestling, ever again.

I may as well stop going to shows now.

The only thing I want to wear next Spring is Catherine Holstein’s collection, though I don’t think I could manage the 6-inch Cesare Paciotti sandals that topped it off.

Her clothes, shown on the runway at Bumble & Bumble, were my idea of perfect. The show opened with blush pink dresses, shorts and tops paired with chunky brown belts and woven knit hats worn throughout. It took a slow turn toward nautical, not Trovata nautical, but the subtler nautical of faded navy and white stripes with touches of red and mustard. Then, toward the end of the show, Holstein did lace on her own terms, in an off-white, antique pattern - and very sheer.

Often times it feels like designers try to tell too many stories in one collection with piece-y results, but Holstein’s felt like parts of a greater whole.

As in, I want the whole thing - and judging by the looks on front row faces, I’m not the only one.

So you may have noticed by now that there’s a guy (or is it a bunch of different guys?) dressed as Waldo and wandering the Tents.

We didn’t know what that was about, but we were too busy to care. Then, we looked in that notebook that was part of Charlotte Ronson’s gift bag and saw a stamp inside that explained a little more.

Apparently, Waldo (as in, Where’s Waldo), turns 21 on September 21. And since looking to get the word out, they’ve taken the opportunity of Fashion Week to do a bit of a fun publicity stunt.

And now you know.

(Only somewhat related: Wouldn’t it have been funny if they sent him down the runway at Trovata? I mean, stripes!)

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

We hung out backstage before the Shipley & Halmos show to a) steal glances at the clothes and Loeffler Randall shoes and b) talk to Beauty.com make-up artist extraordinare Tina Turnbow about the Blade-Runner-Goes-Pink look she was going for.

She showed us how to apply Stila lip-gloss to our eyelids for a fresh, shiny look. And then she told us she loved our eye-liner. And then we blushed. She also showed us how to put white eye-liner at the top of your lip to fluff it up a bit, and how to brush shimmer around the corner of your eye so that when the light hits you, you glow.

We could’ve stayed and played with her all day, but the show was about to start and we were determined to make it to our seat in time to how Madeline from Model.Live was holding up with her second show of the day (her first was Cushnie et Ochs - more on them very soon.)

Madeline held her own with the gamine girls and very cute boys in her little black dress. The collection, the second the boys have designed since breaking from Trovata, was easy-going; almost anyone could wear most of the looks. Our favorite was a sheer black top tucked into wide-leg white pants. It was an almost perfect retro/modern balance.

But for the most part, our eyes were on the Philip Crangi jewelry, and Philip himslef, which was fun for us, but not exactly the point.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST