Much like New York’s Garment District, France’s industry of specialized artisans is in trouble. And even the prime minister is getting involved, according to the Wall Street Journal.
One major topic of discussion is expected to be rules on labeling, as in making sure it is known exactly where a garment is produced and if it has artisanal nature—which sounds very much like a high end version of the old “Made in the USA” campaign. Because outsourcing and the simple decline in orders for luxury goods is leaving many of the “petites mains” who helped build France’s fashion influence out of work. This also leads to problems when trying to train a new generation.
On Monday night at 9 pm (EST), HBO will debut the documentary Schmatta: Rags to Riches to Rags that takes a look at the history of New York’s Garment District. From the clips we just watched, it looks to be incredibly educational and interesting.
As someone who has only worked on the editorial side, the Garment District has just been an axis around which the industry I work in revolved. But I’ve never had much first-hand knowledge or experience with it, the way a designer or a production person would. Needless to say, I will be tuning in and soaking up all the historical footage and interviews with lifelong garmentos and industry folks like Fern Mallis and Isaac Mizrahi.
The Garment District used to be a serious force in the city’s economy, but that’s become less and less the case as the years go by. In the mid-60s 95% of American clothing was made in the US. By 1985, it was 70% and now it’s only about 5%. You can only imagine what that does to the country’s fashion hub.
Lately its problems are garnering a lot more attention. Along with the documentary, a Save the Garment Center rally has been planned. The center is in danger of shutting down due to zoning issues with the city. Steven Kolb, Stan Herman, Nanette Lepore and others will be on hand voicing their concerns and showing support.
Here’s hoping the garment industry fares better than the airlines and the automobiles. More information on the rally and another clip after the jump!
There’s always a lot of talk about working people in New York constantly getting phased out. People love to complain about gentrification, but they also love their $19 croque-madame. Consequently, little is ever done.
But Anna Sui is at least trying, and her focus is on the many people who made the Garment District what it is - where to have your clothes made. She’s trying to preserve the Garment District by mobilizing city officials and the CFDA to hopefully change back some zoning laws that make turning your building into luxury loft rentals a little too tempting for city landlords. She hopes that by having as many people as possible wear the t-shirt at left, we’ll all realize that we should do what we can to dedicate at least certain buildings to the garment industry by ensuring that manufacturers can afford their rent.
She hopes the shirt gets circulated at as many shows as possible this coming Fashion Week, and orders for the shirts must be submitted to Thomas Miller at Anna Sui by Friday - they’ll go at $6 each.
We sincerely hope these shirts, with relevant city officials’ contact information printed on the back, wake enough people up to the disappearing rainforest effect taking over New York’s clothes manufacturing. As Sui put it to WWD, “I keep thinking that the enrollment in design schools is up, but where are these kids going to work? Will they go to China?”
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