Overall, New York Fashion Week kept to a very neutral palette, but when color was needed designers went straight for neon yellows and lime greens to brighten their quiet visions of spring.

We spotted it at Jonathan Saunders, Brian Reyes and Marc by Marc, of course. But Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen, Yigal Azrouel and Clare Waight Keller at Pringle all paired their bright yellows with dove grey for a pretty fresh look that even I (I never wear color) would consider working into spring.

Jonathan Saunders will join his Brit friends at London Fashion Week this September.

He, like Burberry, Pringle and Matthew Williamson before him, will return to the UK in honor of the British Fashion Council’s 25th anniversary after showing in New York for the past couple of years.

The BFC’s averaging about one glorious return per week and considering LFW doesn’t start until September there’s room for about twelve more to change their mind.

Between this, the recession and the move from the Natural History Museum to Somerset House we’re expecting major changes for fall - here’s hoping the BFC’s grand celebrations make for one serious week long party.

It amazes us that Scottish designer Graeme Black isn’t more widely known.

After all, he was senior designer at Armani for years (not to mention the great Giorgio’s boyfriend for much of that time), and before that Creative Director of Ferragamo. He launched his luxe, very tailored, eponymous label a few years ago.

Victoria Beckham’s a major fan; her own line was equal parts inspired by Black as Mouret. His fiercely loyal following also includes Arab princesses, political wives, English (celeb) royalty including Elle MacPherson and Yasmin LeBon, whose daughter walked Graeme’s AW09 runway and so on.

The designer’s been more quietly successful stateside, his new Saks concession is ka-chinging along and he’ll be part of the new ninth floor in September. In London, he’s launching an entirely new retail concept - think a more luxe Colette - this fall.

And why are we talking about him now? Because the Scottish Fashion Awards were kind of irrelevant until Scotland started producing the likes of Alexander McQueen, Louise Gray, Christopher Kane etc. and since Jonathan Saunders was more than expected to take home designer of the year, everyone’s eye has turned toward Black after scooping the award this weekend.

So for now, Black gets to be the Great Scot.

—CHARLEY B.

All For One: Happy Memorial Day. We’re embracing the one piece this weekend. Perhaps you should too. Oh, and it’s a half day here at Fashionista, so we’ll be outta here earlier than usual. Have a good one. {StyleFile}

Girls On Film: The Mulleavys muse about movies. Just when we thought it wasn’t possible to love them any more, they go and namecheck Pinhead. {LA Times}

Treat Yourself: Just click. You won’t be disappointed. Unless you’re the kind of person who doesn’t enjoy a deliciously tan Chuck Bass. And if that’s the case, there’s nothing more we can do for you. {Jezebel}

Great Scots: Who will reign supreme in the Scottish design world? Our vote goes to Jonathan Saunders. {VogueUK}

So, Henry thinks it’d “be ace” if you guys could swing by the Best of London Designer sale.

You probably don’t want to go out of your way just because Henry thinks it’d be swell.

But you’ll definitely want to go for his clothes, or maybe a severely discounted Jonathan Saunders dress or Richard Nicoll jacket? If we could book a flight to London, we’d hold out futile hope of snagging this Roksanda Ilincic gown. Or, if you can’t handle “the Alice” maybe you’d like a few pairs of her sister’s shoes since Charlotte Olympia will be there, too?

It’s like London fashion week all over again but so much better because you can buy the clothes for 50% off retail prices.

Oh, and if that’s not enough to make you line up early, some of the designers have actually made pieces just for this sale - as in, no one else will ever have them.

The things we’d do to be there…

To: Britt@fashionista.com

From: brooklynbabe@ihearttarget.com

Hi girls!

You might know this already, or you might not, but guess what’s landed at Brooklyn’s Target a bit before schedule?!

I spotted three colorful Jonathan Saunders shirts, two super cute skirts and a couple of dresses. Everything looked surprisingly well made. Unfortunately the fit was more Target than Saunders so I had to pass.

But I’ll be back for the whole collection. In the meantime, if you’re particularly junior sized, I’d suggest scooping up those dresses before they’re gone!

xo
Loyal reader (& even more loyal shopper)

We’ve been waiting not so patiently for this one - Nylon has a first look at Jonathan Saunders’ collection for Target.

There are, of course, lots of colors - from Mondrian like blocking to classic ombre - poured over skirts, coats, jeans and belts. The jackets, however, one Victorian, cropped, black with brown leather trim and one that looks like rainbow tinsel, stand out as two of the strongest pieces we’ve seen from Target’s Go International collaborations.

Lucky for us, Target’s opening a pop up shop in midtown next week to sell this collection as well as their Sigerson Morrison and Anya Hindmarch accessories a full month before they hit stores all over the country.

Which means we can have those jackets before Paris - which makes us very happy.

You know how Fashion Week makes you insane with wanting to shop, but all your money’s going to cabs and coffee, so actually buying clothes is kind of impossible?

Well, Target heard us. And they’ve responded.

On September 11, Target’s opening up four pop-up shops in Manhattan, in Soho, Union Square, the East Village - and Midtown, hopefully within a block of the Tents.

The shops will include Jonathan Saunders’ line just after it comes out, Richard Chai’s, Anya Hindmarch’s bags and Sigerson’s shoes.

And if we can score a cute top for under $20, you’ll probably see us with smiles at some of those 10am appointments.

A few weeks ago, Jonathan Saunders was announced as the new creative director of Pollini.

You may ask, “What’s Pollini?” and we say, “Well, it’s this Italian label that was really popular in the ’70s, it’s in some vintage stores, and now Aeffe deals with it…”

Currently, the line is cute and streamlined, with lots of navy and neutrals, but we imagine Mr. Saunders will transform it substantially and render it more in his own style:

Graphic, floaty, and a little bit insane.

But even more pressing than “What’s he going to do for Pollini?” is this:

“How does he have time to design four collections?!”

That’s right, four: His namesake label, TopShop, Target, and now, Pollini.

We predict a never-ending Starbucks run for his many assistants.

Faran: Tell me if this is awful.

Natalie: Okay.

Faran: What if we did a post being like, “But will Jonathan Saunders’ new line for Target be better than Forever 21’s ripoffs of Jonathan Saunders?”

Natalie: Haaaa! It’s true.

Faran: But it’s awful.

Natalie: Well, it’s interesting.

Faran: Plus, he’s already taken, like, his entire runway from last season and turned it into t-shirt dresses for TopShop. And now there’s going to be a Target collection of diffusion stuff from him, even though Forever 21’s already diffused his latest runway line, albeit without his permission…

Natalie: Yeah…

Britt: Didn’t this whole Jonathan/Target thing come out in January?

Faran: Gosh, this is making me dizzy. I think I need Pinkberry.

[Annnnnd scene.]

Forever 21’s returned to designer archives for their latest batch of dresses we’ve seen before.

Reader Jessica e-mailed this tiered shift dress with a black bodice and a layered skirt in the prettiest retro, (Marc Jacobs?) colors. We actually love the dress.

Too bad its design was snatched off Jonathan Saunders’ Fall ‘07 runway.

The skirt’s fabric’s a bit flouncier and they were courteous enough to change the color of the bottom layer from a vivid yellow to a buttery shade.

We know being copied is the highest form of flattery, but somehow we don’t think Jonathan would be too thrilled.

While Isaac Mizrahi was busy joining Liz Claiborne, Target was filling in the gap left by his excellent womenswear line with a new acquisition:

Jonathan Saunders.

WWD reports with much certainty that the British designer will follow Jovovich Hawk as the next Go! International designer, on the heels of his first collection shown in America.

Jonathan’s long been a hot ticket in London because of his fabulous and forward-thinking dresses; after a wine-drenched dinner for the designer at Little West 12th Street, KCD announced he’d indeed make the move to America.

Jonathan is the third British designer wrangled for Target - during London Fashion Week, Alice Temperley debuted her collection in Target as well as on the first floor of Selfridge’s, and their very first collaboration was with our very favorite designer, Luella Bartley.

One of the best parts about having a blog is you get to break news at 3 am.

Here’s today’s, though of course we’ve got to classify it as a “rumor” since we can’t call Jonathan’s studio and say “Hey, can you confirm…”

It’s Sunday; they’re sleepy.

Anyway, a stylist told us an hour ago that Jonathan Saunders will indeed move to New York this February and show his latest collection - something everyone speculated when he appeared last week to host a dinner at The Inn on Little West 12th. Mr. Saunders follows Preen, whose Fall ‘07 collection was so sharply great, it was actually worth the hour-long wait in Soho to see it.

And make no mistake: Jonathan Saunders is just as good, his clothes will make New York that much better, and we’re psyched.

Hopefully a real confirmation on Monday, but until then, back to bed.

The shows in London are over, and the countdown to the Prada show on Tuesday has officially begun. But before you say cheerio to British fashion, check out the clothes from these three designers you might have overlooked. Their clothes aren’t as brash and bright as House of Holland, but we think they still have lots of impact.

Roksanda Ilincic Roksanda is a Serbian by way of Yugoslavia, now living and designing in London. This fall she says she was inspired by 30’s-’70s fashion illustration, and we could definitely see Greta Garbo lounging in one of her flowing charmeuse gowns. They’ve got an understated glamor and elegance that speaks volumes, softly.

Richard Nicoll

Like Roksanda Ilincic, Richard Nicoll played with pumped-up shoulders this season. But in his muted color palette the clothes definitely felt more sculptural than sporty. The next Central St. Martins grad to make a big splash? Maybe…

Jonathan Saunders

Jonathan Saunders has a masters in printed textiles, but his clothes don’t look the way you might expect them to. Instead of running riot with plaids, paisleys, and stripes, Jonathan does simple color blocking. If you like what you see as much as we do, take heart; he’ll be showing in New York next season.

—ANNA FIELDING GRIGGS