While watching the Rag & Bone men’s presentation, in the industrial setting that is Marine and Aviation building on Pier 57, I couldn’t help but feel like the hand dealt to designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright isn’t exactly fair. They were one in a group of several designers that focused on heritage and made it the trend in menswear. Now that everyone is doing it, or has done it at this point, what is poor Rag & Bone to do?
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I don’t envy Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, the designers of Rag and Bone. What do you do when heritage, your thing, is the trend of the moment? And then isn’t. Last season, their approach was to out-heritage everyone, with masses of chambray and denim, in what felt like the closeted football player on Glee constantly targeting the gay kids for abuse, aka, the lady protesting a little too much. Their solution for next fall is to go British. “English gamekeepers, stalking in Scotland and the Duke of Windsor. Exemplary demonstration of how to dress like an Englishman” read their press materials.
Coco Rocha’s Really Nice Apartment: As part of Vogue’s APT with LSD series, Lauren Santo Domingo takes us inside the Gramercy Park apartment of model Coco Rocha and her husband, James Conran. As you can probably imagine, there are stunning views, lots of art books, and an amazing closet. {Vogue}
Tim Gunn’s At It Again: Tim Gunn has already shared his thoughts on Anna Wintour. Now it Lady Gaga’s turn. He told Yahoo’s OMG: “Who would want to emulate that? It’s not fashion. Those are costumes.” Really? She’s worn Armani, Gareth Pugh, Jeremy Scott, Alexander McQueen, Dolce & Gabbana. Aren’t they fashion designers? {Racked}
Revolver is a Magazine That Exists and Taylor Momsen is on the Cover: Taylor Momsen is on the cover of Revolver magazine holding a bunch of, well, revolvers, and wearing black lingerie. We get it, Taylor–you’re tough, you’re old enough to make you own discussions, and you should be allowed to stay out past midnight. Now, go put on some clothes. {Huffington Post}
If there was a men’s highlight to Friday of Fashion Week (next to Hamish Bowles’s duet with Cheyenne Jackson—with Anna Wintour looking on—at The Rug Company’s Fashion’s Night Out event), it was the Rag & Bone show. Everyone was in attendance, and on the edge of their seats.
The results were mixed. David Neville and Marcus Wainwright have moved past the punky downtown and more towards this year’s ubiquitous obsession: workwear. I’ve always seen Rag & Bone as the uniform for bartenders at speakeasies, but not longer—you might do a double take over your gimlet poured by a mixologist in a pair of Japanese denim overalls. That’s right, overalls! Raw indigo denim overalls, to be specific. And the salute to John Henry was just beginning: raw indigo denim chambrays, coats, dungarees, and a poncho followed.
Yet the stronger pieces had nothing to do with denim, like the black and white wool and silk herringbone engine jacket and matching trousers, and a red silk blazer.
Staying true to its simple and streamlined roots, Rag & Bone is moving forward in some surprising, and sometimes satisfying directions. If I’m not totally on board, I’ll be interested to see where this train is headed.
And while Rag & Bone got a little rough and tumble, Tim Hamilton Redux celebrated something closer to rough trade in a collection that was tough, grungy and at the same time soft and taciturn.
