Richard Nicoll called out the 1920s and sport as Fall 2011 inspirations, and you could see those references in his silhouettes–dropped waists, baseball jackets, raglans, and drawstrings. But there’s an elegance to Nicoll’s clothes that only fine silk crepes and satins–cut with the utmost rigor–can confer. The high neckline was quite directional–we’re bound to see more dresses and blouses move upward. And the trains–cut at sharp, 90 degree angles–brought a discipline to the style not seen on other runways.
Yesterday the UK’s Daily Mail posted one of their standard non-stories about a celebrity, built up around some photos. It secured the top spot on the paper’s website, so you’d assume the celeb story was about an A-lister. Not so. Olivia Palermo of all people, in her bikini with her boyfriend, had garnered the lead story spot. “Far away from The City: Reality TV star Olivia Palermo puckers up with model boyfriend as she shows off bikini in St Barts,” the headline blared.
Across the pond, Palermo seems to have become more of a celebrity than she is back here. She’s been a fixture for several seasons now at London Fashion Week, sitting front row at Topshop Unique and Richard Nicoll, she snagged the cover of Tatler which ran with the headline “Girl of the Year,” she was one of Vogue UK’s “Today I’m Wearing” style diary girls, and was the face of Freda for Matches, the upscale UK boutique chain.
So why all the fuss?
LONDON–Fashion East, the London launchpad for raw young talent, celebrated its 10th year with the launch of a 10-piece range under new label Lulu & Co. Each look, some of which were only seen on the runway–never in stores–were handpicked by Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy from the archives of alum like Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, Jonathan Saunders and Henry Holland.
To mark the occasion, the East End fashion pack brought the party West to Harvey Nichols in London’s posh Knightsbridge neighborhood for a Mexican-themed disco replete with fish tacos, hibiscus margaritas, and wonderfully kitsch gold palm trees. Everyone from Roisin Murphy and Pixie Geldof to supermodel/presenter Jade Parfitt spun around in their favorite pieces from the range, while a tagteam set was DJ’d by Princess Julia, House of Holland and Hazel. We nabbed the ageless fairy godmother of London fashion, Lulu Kennedy, dressed in a fiery organza gown by Jonathan Saunders, to talk disco and a decade of designers.
LONDON–You know that a show’s good when you begin trying to work out in your mind how you’re going to fit at least one piece, if not two, into your budget next year. That’s how I felt when I was watching Richard Nicoll‘s Spring 2011 show. I haven’t yet decided which piece I want to splurge on, but I have narrowed it down to ten: