There’s always something very Old World about Brian Wolk and Claude Morais’s refined and hyperfeminine collections for Ruffian. True to form, when we stepped out of the early morning flurries into The Studio at Lincoln Center Saturday, a Bach concerto was playing on the stereo.
The pair’s press notes stated they were inspired by “viewing bronze sculptures of Henry Moore set against the backdrop of English estates.” As we watched the parade of sharply tailored separates—silk georgette bow blouses and knee-length high-waisted trumpet skirts, wide leg trousers, and double-breasted suiting in a warm array of wool melton and glen wool plaid—we couldn’t help thinking these were silhouettes Downton Abbey‘s the sisters Crawley would lust after.
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So we’re only halfway through New York Fashion Week, but there have been enough interesting beauty looks that a recap is in order. It’s a bit early to call trends yet, but orangey lips and strong eyes (not together!) are still having a run. As far as hair, we’ve seen just as much textured, messy hair as we’ve seen middle parts with stick straight locks. And nails are all over the place, but an early prediction is slate grey and deep burgundies will rule next fall.
Click through to see our favorite beauty from NYFW so far. We’re not suggesting that all these looks are wearable, but they’re definitely cool.
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This morning’s Ruffian show started off with a sartorial bang as Siri Tollerod, clad in a slick patent leather blazer and skintight satin pants, stepped out to a pulsating disco-like beat. There’s no question that designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais know their way around a Victorian-style suit, so it was a smart decision to show a collection heavy on jackets and trousers. But as for the heavy dose of patent that permeated the line, we weren’t so sure about the overall effect. Megawatt shine can work well in small amounts–covering a coat’s lapel or trimming a pocket, say–but skinny pants cut from the plastick-y material fell flat here. We did love the slouchy, cuffed, cropped trousers shown with several looks, however, and there were some lovely double-breasted coats, neat jackets, and tulip skirts in a “Prince of Wales” houndstooth.
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