From the Upper West Side (Michael Kors) to the far southern reaches of Tribeca (Proenza Schouler) the most buzzed about shows took part in a little gender play with menswear-inspired tailoring.
No boring gray suits here–or at least not amongst the most buzzed about collections on Tuesday, when minimalist titan Narciso Rodriguez gave a masterclass in exuberant pops of color. The Mulleavy sisters, meanwhile, gave their models the hautest tramp stamps ever (with a little help from Scott Campbell) and Oscar de la Renta had his Read more →
There was a lot to like, and even more to love, on the fifth day of fashion week. Critics found it hard to pick one favorite–or even three–on a day that saw Carolina Herrera commission a capriccio, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen take on a maison particulier in the Upper East Side, Olivier Theyskens delve into retro-futurism, Phillip Lim perfect his cool-girl aesthetic and Thom Browne stage a full-on performance piece.
A definite sign that midweek fashion fatigue is setting it? Critics were abuzz when Diane von Furstenberg and Victoria Beckham broke rank and went their own–drapey and dapper–ways. There was also a definite insectile hum about the dragonfly motif at Thakoon.
Click through to see what the critics said.
There were common motifs parading through the shows Saturday–and we don’t just mean the superluxe fur mittens spotted on the glamazons at both Alexander Wang and Altuzarra. On a hellaciously cold day in New York, the most buzzed about shows were those filled with looks editors wished could march right off the runway.
If the first day of fashion week is like the first day of school, then Thursday’s most buzzed about designers certainly gave a lesson in smart dressing. Creatures of the Wind put a saleable spin on their whimsical confections, Richard Chai said “hup! two, three, four,” and Holmes & Yang suited up.
Et, c’est la fin. On the third and final day of the couture shows, Jean Paul Gaultier said “Jai Ho!” while at Valentino, though they swore they hadn’t called Karl and Raf, Maria and Pierpaolo let the garden grow.
Couture, old-fashioned? Not if two septuagenarians have anything to say about it. On the second day of the shows, Karl Lagerfeld, 79, incorporated elements of streetstyle at Chanel while Giorgio Armani, 78, gave a masterclass in women wearing pants at Armani Privé.
In case you were watching a certain inaugural fashion spectacular on this side of the Atlantic and missed the first day of couture fashion week, here’s what critics had to say about the shows: Donatella Versace put the she wolves in chainmetal, Giambattista Valli toed the line between flora and fauna, and at Christian Dior, Raf Simons upped the ante one million flowers.
Grunge! Chic beekeepers! New Looks! Damier dresses! If your head is still spinning from 9 days of nonstop fashion action the City of Light–ours are, for sure–we’ve got your handily reductive recap of each day’s critics’ pick for top show. Presenting the Paris Fashion Week spring 2013 Honor Roll.
Well, here we are. Le fin of Paris Fashion Week–and the end of our four-week, four-city international fashion marathon. On the day of second acts, Miuccia Prada did some typically subversive takes on ’50s shapes at Miu Miu. But it was Marc Jacobs–that guy who defined this season’s graphic obsession with his collection of stripped down stripes for his namesake line back in New York–who made Louis Vuitton’s iconic damier motif look not-so-square. Checkmate.
Here’s what the critics were buzz-buzz-buzzing about.
