Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren all had a little drama walking down the runway this season in the form of swinging car wash skirts and dresses. Watching them sway back and forth is a bit hypnotizing, and with the lengths they’ve gone to (short at Dean Quinn, long at Sachin + Read more →
The bitter chill of winter can be cruel and unforgiving, which makes covering up so important. With every long coat in a neutral color that went down the runway (lots of dusters, actually), there was an answering blanket coat with a great graphic print to match it. The trend falls in lockstep with the gaucho/cowboy/nomad Read more →
We have many youthful memories (fond or otherwise) of wearing flared pants, maybe even full blown homemade bell bottoms (those DIY jeans for our hippie Halloween costume may have found its way into our regular rotation, maybe not–we admit to nothing). So it goes without saying that seeing the first pair of flared pants this Read more →
There’s no doubt Brood designer Serkan Sarier is beloved by the fashion crowd. With past gigs at Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli and Haider Ackermann, the Antwerp grad also happens to call Vera Wang a friend. Indeed, we witnessed Wang running around at last week’s Brood presentation in Chelsea, asking an assistant to snap pictures of her amongst the dresses. We spotted plenty of other luminaries, too, including Wang creative director Michelle Kessler.
Yet Sarier, who was born in Germany to Turkish parents, has the chops to back up his buzz. Not only did Barneys New York pick up Spring 2011–his first collection–but fall’s showing was even stronger. The blend of autumnal colors and couture-inspired shapes makes Brood Fall 2011 a can’t-miss.
We recently caught up with Sarier to discuss the fall collection.
Our favorite collections of Fall 2011, arranged in alphabetical order. Did your pick make the cut?
“No customary suits of solemn black” for these designers, who apparently had Ophelia, from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, on their minds. Draped cloaks and updated bishop sleeves showed up at Thom Browne and Junya Watanabe, while Rick Owens showed us a beautiful hood and habit (habood?) hybrid.
As guests filed into Milk Studios for Kevork Kiledjian‘s debut collection this past February during New York Fashion Week, front row fixtures like Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Leigh Lezark caused a stir with paparazzi. But backstage was where all the real action was at, and we’ve got the exclusive footage.
Blue eyes are having a moment. Not the powdery blue of the 70s or shocking blue of the 80s–this is a thoroughly modern blue shot through with metallics. See Betsey Johnson and Jason Wu for blue and gold (both also used gold in the hair, to very different effect). Feeling cooler? Add a dash of Read more →
While nail colors on the NYFW Fall 2011 runways ranged from rich wines, to neutral nudes, to fanciful and kitschy nail art, one consistent trend emerged: pointy almond-shaped nails. Forget the wishy-washy roundish square and squarish round shapes that have been dominating salons. Commit to some talons. From Jason Wu‘s elegant gold tips to Jen Read more →
Jen Mankins‘ chainlet Bird (there are outposts in Cobble Hill, Williamsburg and Park Slope) pretty much dictates what a certain set of Brooklyn girls wear (read: editors, stylists and other assorted influential ladies). One of our “Fashionista 50 Most Influential People in New York Fashion,” Mankins made the cut because, as Lauren puts it, she Read more →
MARLON GOBEL • Fall / Winter 2011 “The Secret Order” from Marlon Gobel on Vimeo. Marlon Gobel, the menswear designer who convinced Christian Louboutin to do shoes for his New York show (the first time CB has ever done so for a men’s collection), was kind enough to share behind the scenes footage from his Read more →
Of course we had our favorites. And here they are, in no particular order. For the most part. What were yours?
Marc Jacobs’ collection was lauded for it’s commitment to the faux. Say, don’t those skirts look like Marni’s spring 2009 collection? Who’s discs are you dotty for Marc’s or Marni’s?
1. Sometimes, Tumblr tumbles. Despite the awesome access the Tumblrs received, including a private party at Donna Karan, breakfast with Nina Garcia, and more, the week’s events were reportedly badly organized.
3. If you are under 21, you can still DJ an over-21 party. Thanks for the lesson in NY State law, Tavi.
Alexander Wang, the wunderkind whose promising knitwear collection has swiftly transformed into a global lifestyle brand, is setting up shop.
On Grand Street in SoHo, to be exact, at the old Yohji Yamamoto store, which closed about a year ago. Wang’s new space, which features his women’s, men’s, T, and accessories collections, is airy yet cozy, with a fox fur hammock hanging from the ceiling. Edon Manor’s Ryan Korban designed the space, and you can see his signature in the grey marble and topiary-inspired greenery that accents the room.
As for the man himself, Wang seems exceedingly excited about this new endeavor, greeting guests enthusiastically as they arrived at yesterday’s private opening.
“The idea has always been kind of burning in the back of our minds, but like every project we do, it has to feel organic. With this store, it was the perfect location,” he told Fashionista. “And at a certain point, in terms of where our product was–we had accessories, we had men’s, we had T–to be able to create a full lifestyle environment was important. The pieces of the puzzle came together. We banged it out in a year and a half.”
Regarding the numerous Alex Wang knockoffs popping up in discount and fast fashion retailers almost daily, he’s anything but bitter about it.
Thank goodness today marks the final day of New York Fashion Week, because we are in desperate need of some good old-fashioned zzz’s. Once yesterday evening’s shows wrapped, we headed down to Indochine to celebrate the sixth issue of The Last Magazine at the bar beneath the Lafayette Street eatery. The space was brimming with gorgeous faces–we spied former Last cover girl Anja Rubik among the revelers, as well as industry insiders like Matt Kays, Rumi Neely, and CA Creative’s Alexandra Weiss–and the Kanon Organic Vodka flowed freely. Zara Zachrisson and May Kwok were on DJ duty, and it quickly became clear that the space’s smoky back room housed the designated dance floor while the entryway lounge was strictly for rubbing shoulders with the genetically-blessed.
We finally made our way through the Marlboro haze–fresh copies of the glossy’s latest edition in hand–and up to midtown’s Lavo, where a slightly more dressed-down crowd fêted DJ duo Harley Viera-Newton and Cassie Coane’s 23rd birthdays.
New York Fashion Week is not just home to American or New York-based designers. A slew of out of towners flock to the Big Apple to show their creations each September and February, and we found out why from six of this season’s participants. You know what they say–if you can make it here…
This spring is all about the LWD and it looks like fall 2011 will be all about the LRD–that’s little red dress. From Lhuillier‘s amazing feathered minidress, to Chado‘s crazy luxe fur coat, to Marc‘s lace version, to Rodarte‘s tribute to Dorothy’s ruby red slippers, everyone’s got their version.
Unlike Steff, I’m not a model girl. I have my faves, but I’m not on Ford’s website every weekend searching for the latest faces on the board.
But I am a huge fan of Hannah Holman. We chose her as one of our favorite models to watch about a year ago, and soon enough she landed in campaigns for Alexander Wang and Marc by Marc Jacobs. And she’s got a supporter in Katie Grand, which always means good things.
Colorblocking was the It-trend for SS11, so naturally it’s been reincarnated and revitalized during NYFW for AW11. Spring’s startling neons (courtesy of the Italians Prada, Jil Sander, and Fendi) were remixed in America using our national colors: red, (sometimes white), and blue. Thakoon, Marc Jacobs, Thom Browne, Rag & Bone, and Duro Olowu added pop Read more →
In honor of NYFW, I thought it’d be nice to take a look at Glenda Bailey. To be perfectly frank, I think she’s pretty badass as far as the editorial world goes. As editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, she’s the type of woman who keeps her wits about her and one of those people that’s in it because she loves it. So often in fashion we see people who want their picture taken, want their name on the list or want their gift bag. There are very few veterans still in the business for the right reasons, and Glenda is one of them. So cheers to Ms. Bailey; she’s got it goin’ on.
Which key buyers–as in the ones every designer would kill to have at his/her show–were shut out of several shows on Saturday night due to the clusterfuck at Milk?
We thought this would be the perfect trend to post today, which is Valentines’ Day and the fifth day of fashion week. Diane Von Furstenburg, Libertine and Prabal Gurung all embraced these lipstick shades.
So we’re only halfway through New York Fashion Week, but there have been enough interesting beauty looks that a recap is in order. It’s a bit early to call trends yet, but orangey lips and strong eyes (not together!) are still having a run. As far as hair, we’ve seen just as much textured, messy hair as we’ve seen middle parts with stick straight locks. And nails are all over the place, but an early prediction is slate grey and deep burgundies will rule next fall.
Click through to see our favorite beauty from NYFW so far. We’re not suggesting that all these looks are wearable, but they’re definitely cool.
Doo.Ri, Prabal Gurung, and Peter Som went manic for fur sleeves this season. While most stayed on the darker end of the color spectrum, Prabal gave it a much softer feel.
We received this hilarious correspondence from Ken Carson regarding his event tonight at Christie’s. (Designers Simon Spurr, Billy Reid, Nicholas K, Yigal Azrouel, Michael Bastian, and Robert Geller have each designed an outfit for the man doll’s 50th birthday.)
Ken’t wait to see you tonight from 6-8 pm at Christie’s Gallery 6 for my exclusive Kenswear Presentation where pop culture meets fashion and art.
When you get there, make sure to check-in on foursquare and use the official event hashtag #kenswear throughout the night. See all links/tags below.
Last but not least… I hear Barbie RSVPed yes. Will you keep an eye out for her and let me know when she arrives? V-Day is tomorrow and I’ve got to talk to her…
Obviously, Ken is hardcore stalking Barbie–he wants to corner her so that he can beg her to get back together with him tomorrow. Better warn that girl.
Ms. Gaga has always had a penchant for pink hair, and her March Vogue cover makes us take note of all the bubble gum hued ‘dos we’ve see on the runways. The Rich’s-Richard Chai and Richie Rich-did an untamed version of the trend, while United Bamboo keeps it pretty in pink.
Patricia Field, who is not known for subtlety in her styling or personal sartorial choices, threw a Disco Valentine’s Ball Friday night at Capitale in NYC. To get everyone in the mood for Valentine’s Day, she invited her fabulous friends to come in costume, preferably red.
Drag queens, lots of T&A, and a fair amount of Harajuku-esque dressing set the scene–this was not about tasteful fashion. Trojan was one of the sponsors, so you can only imagine what sort of debauchery was encouraged. The costume contest winners–for “Sexiest Couple,” “Sexiest Single,” and “Best Costume” were awarded trophies and a $4,000 shopping spree.
Patricia Field hired go-go dancers to entertain and get the crowd in the mood. She also dressed them–we spotted metallic snake skin bras, transparent harem pants, shiny pasties, and thongs–lots of thongs.
So naturally, we’re dying over Fallon‘s vibrant fall campaign styled by the Marie Claire editor/street style icon.
In the editorial-style photographs by Sharif Hamza, model Jana K wears an array of the latest FALLON baubles–cuffs galore and egyptian-style necklaces, piled onto her arms and around her neck in true Tomasi-Hill fashion.
Click through to browse the campaign.
To use one of our new favorite phrases, Fashion Week is “many things.” Too many in fact, to capture in one blog post. But can we try? Day three is already here but we’re still poring over the hits and misses of day one. Here’s our take:
The Wigs at Gary Graham: We got his vision for the clothes. But the beauty notes lost us at hello. What were those wigs? No, seriously. What were they?
The Front Row at BCBG: Yet again, just as much to look at off the runway as a laundry list of “celebs” from Kelly Rowland to Jennifer Love Hewitt perched on the front row.
Wellies at Organic by John Patrick: Rainy days just got an upgrade with these to-die-for lace up rain boots.
Swimwear at Norma Kamali: We are too delighted that Kamali showed on the runway to complain about anything. But if we did, it would be to ask how those unforgiving cut-outs would translate on real women.
After leaving her namesake brand, Devi Kroell returns to New York Fashion Week with a brand new collection: Dax Gabler. We can’t wait to see the debut on February 16.
QVC’s finest hit the red carpet Friday night during the shopping network’s Fashion Week kick-off party and live-streamed runway show, co-sponsored by Vogue. And by “QVC’s finest” we mean everyone from Isaac Mizrahi to Kim Kardashian to Lori Goldstein.
The ubiquitous Kardashian sisters (just Kourtney and Kim) were on hand, to support their K-Dash for QVC line. But Kim was still stuck on her spread for Harper’s Bazaar. “Elizabeth Taylor sent over one of her gowns and I was able to belt it and wear it for the shoot,” she gushed.
Isaac Mizrahi admitted he was exhausted before he went on-air to present his latest QVC designs. His secret to putting out a zillion Mizrahi collections?
In the midst of this week’s shows there are some truly interesting conversations going on at Milk Studios. I’ve been fortunate enough to sit in on two of them.
Thursday night, it was the Proenza Schouler talk at the IFB conference. Design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez sat down with the Business of Fashion‘s Imran Amed to discuss The Web. (As in bloggers, e-commerce, and viral campaigns.)
Since working with Isabella Blow in the ’00s, Nadja Swarovski and her fashion team have made it their responsibility to support designers–both emerging and established–during fashion week and beyond. This season, Swarovski will underwrite the shows of several important New York, London, Milan, and Paris designers. In New York, this includes:
Everyone loves to bemoan the state of fashion today: it’s too fast, it’s too big, it’s too corporate, it’s too global, it’s too accessible, they say. But no one really does anything about it. Technology speeds things up and fashion follows. Everyone wants more and they want it now. Which is not necessarily a bad thing. But last night one of fashion’s most respected brands brought together some of fashion’s most respected names to slow things down, talk, and reflect about the state of fashion.
Lauren and I felt very lucky to attend Miu Miu’s second “Miu Miu Musing” hosted by the incredibly gorgeous and stylish Shala Monroque, who looked like a Miu Miu barbie doll in a bright red wig. The theme for the evening’s salon discussion was “constructive superficiality.”
Perhaps it was telling that we were blasting The Cranberries’ “Zombie” on our way to Nicholas K’s 9 a.m. show this morning. True to their trademark downtown-meets-military aesthetic, brother/sister duo Nicole and Christopher Kunz sent out a collection that My So-Called Life’s Angela Chase would flip for. A mix of goat hair-trimmed leather toppers, cocoon-like parkas (a Nicholas K signature piece), and plenty of velvet separates in autumnal evergreens and burgundies–the looks seemed straight out the 90s grunge-glam movement. And since those endless layers of leather and wool can swallow a person whole, the designers cinched the silhouettes with plaid button-ups tied offhandedly around the models’ waists. We especially love the skirts (cut in both flannel and leather) that riffed off the same vibe with their built-in “belts” fashioned from actual sleeves. Each look was shown with either combat boots or creepers (the indisputable shoe of the moment). Unfortunately, comfy and cool as they might be, stacked-sole flats aren’t always the best for strutting—one model took not one, but two tumbles in her chunky lace-ups.
Walking in the big shows of a season can jump start any model’s career. (See: Arizona Muse) So, naturally hundreds of girls and guys piled into Hudson’s Library in Midtown yesterday to try their hand (or face) at impressing Andrew Weir, legendary casting director and founder of ACW casting agency. Everyone from up and coming new girls to industry powerhouse Crystal Renn stopped by to “take a walk” and pose for Weir’s cameras.
The whole process took over eight hours, but operations inside Hudson’s Library functioned like a well-oiled machine, each model working their way through a series of obstacles before greeting the Mr. Weir and strutting his or her stuff. It was a rare opportunity to see the girls and guys we worship in magazines in their “natural habitat.”
So, click through to see what we saw!
***All photos by Joseph Chi Lin
Which privileged designer has asked her West Coast exec daddy to call in favors and pay people off this fashion week? Apparently she’s even stolen a rival designer’s fit models.
Misha Nonoo makes pretty jackets, and now she’s doing the other half too. (Meaning dresses, skirts, and slacks.) Good luck this week, Misha!
They might not have made this year’s list, but they most certainly can’t be ignored. Keep your eye on these guys in 2011:
Emily Weiss, creator of Into the Gloss and fashion assistant extraordinaire, makes beauty interesting…Deborah Lloyd is taking The Cut, reminds us that fashion’s not everything…P.S. I Made This’ Erica Domesek keeps us crafty…Tony King gives his old company, Createthe Group, a run for its money…Katie Ermilio is the next It designer…Alexander Wang is the next global lifestyle brand.
How do you measure influence?
Is it through website hits? Or sales? Through ad dollars? Or the number of mass retailers who’ve knocked off your work?
The answer is all of the above and none of the above. Influence is an intangible thing that just happens when you know your craft and you work hard at it.
To determine who belongs in the Fashionista 50–our list of the most influential people working in New York fashion–we used our own knowledge of the industry, combined with advice from industry sources. We also considered each candidate’s consumer reach–through sales, media, etc.
To be considered, candidates had to live and work in New York for most of the year.
What’s Fashionista’s definition of influential? It describes people who are shaping the direction of the New York fashion industry, both aesthetically and in terms of how the business works.
You’ll find the entire Fashionista 50 list after the jump. Click on the person’s name to read a full bio. And if you really want to click through the whole slideshow, you can do so here.
In fact, Gobel is collaborating with world-famous shoemaker Christian Louboutin for his Fall 2011 collection. Gobel’s models will wear shoes from Louboutin’s men’s line on the runway in February at New York Fashion Week–a first for the cobbler, who is predominantly known for his sky high heels.
Last season, Gobel used a pair of Louboutin heels for his only women’s look. Christian loved Gobel’s style so much that he offered to outfit the boys for Fall 2011. “It’s amazing,” Gobel tells Fashionista. “His shoes are transformative and elegant.”