Every fashion week, we look for new and exciting trends from the runways to guide us into the next season. This year is no different: We’ve seen monochrome prints, crazy (like really crazy) hats, several Jenna Lyons dopps, and now…hands? As The Cut pointed out, both Diane von Furstenberg and Rodarte bizarrely featured hand printed Read more →
The term “American sportswear” is being taken quite literally this week with many designers churning out collections that are, well, sporty. The clothes not only channel the sporty lifestyle, but the gear as well, which is why mesh is having a moment. Alexander Wang‘s first five exits were completely covered in it. Meanwhile, the fabric hasn’t been limited to just clothing. Those sleek ponytails at Donna Karan? Wrapped in mesh, of course.
It’s hard not to love Rachel Antonoff. From her playful presentations to her adorable clothes, Rachel Antonoff brings a unique joy to the fashion scene. That’s why I was overjoyed when, at Rachel’s SS11 presentation, I heard she was collaborating with Bass, maker of my loyal and trusted loafers.
Models wore a selection of the styles at the presentation, but now we’ve got the entire lookbook, and it’s a stunner. From high-top boat shoes to floral oxfords, the Bass Hearts Rachel Antonoff collaboration has something for everyone. The Alice perforated oxford complete with a bow are my favorites, but it’s a close call with the
Click through to see the whole Bass Hearts Rachel Antonoff lookbook and pick your favorite pair.
SS11 fashion week was filled with amazing collections, which were in turn filled with inventive and unique fashions. We couldn’t just pick ten, so we’ve selected 20 top looks for you instead.
We popped by Coach’s charming West Village “legacy” boutique to preview the Spring 2011 collection. There were enough handbags, shoes and other accessories to fill the entire store and we were pleased to find a lot of things we actually liked. The collection subtly indicated a return to simplicity. There was nary a monogram print to be found.
While there was plenty to satisfy lovers of the ultra-girly and overly embellished, the more stripped down options showcased what we consider to be Coach’s best qualities–good craftsmanship, quality materials and timeless shapes. (The new Poppy collection, inspired by Coach’s new scent, occupies the former category.) My favorites were a large navy leather tote and a slouchy beige drawstring bag.
Bruce, a designer line started in 1998 by Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli, has been pretty under-the-radar as of late. The New York-based line won the coveted CFDA Perry Ellis Award for Womenswear in 2001, took a break from 2004 to 2007 and have kept things pretty low key ever since. Right now, they are smartly focusing on their lower-priced line Bruce II, which can be found in cool Williamsburg boutiques like Bird and Jumelle and online at La Garconne. Yesterday, we stopped by their modest studio in Chinatown to check out Spring ’11 and it did not disappoint.
Forget diamonds–shoes are a girl’s best friend.
The SS11 runways were full of new “best friends” for shoe addicts everywhere. From Alexander McQueen’s and Rodarte’s sculpted wedges to Calvin Klein’s lucite and wood stilettos, there’s something for every girl, even sneakers (from Giles and Yohji Yamamoto, of course)! Trying to pick a favorite may cost you hours, so why not just love them all?
Click through to see the best of the best shoes from the Spring runways!
We at Fashionista don’t hide our love of Urban Outfitters’ designer collaborations and this one by Grey Ant has always been one of our favorites. The pieces are always flattering and easy to wear with interesting details that are rare for such a low price point.
Spring ’11 is full of great body-con skirts and dresses, super cute fairisle-meets-tribal prints, sheer white cotton shirts, and simple cropped pants. It’s sporty yet feminine and full of soft cottons and linens, which we’re crazy about for next spring. Seriously, is it March yet?
Would you rather glow in Christopher Kane’s light bright ensemble, or stand out in Proenza’s striped version?
Maybe New York’s designers spent their summers rock climbing or bungee jumping, because harnesses seem to be having a moment.
The big beauty story on the S/S 2011 New York runways was lip color. Or rather, the lack thereof. From the heavy hitters to the young upstarts, designer after designer put their models in bare lips. Some girls looked like they’d had a mere swipe of Vaseline applied. Other girls’ mouths were pale and matte, Read more →
There were turbans aplenty during NYFW, both on and off the runways. Some version were more pared down, others were big and wrapped and over the top. Would you, could you, wear a turban?
Alexa Chung and musician Diane Birch stole the show at 3.1 Phillip Lim. Diane Kruger Looked amazing in Prabal Gurung, one of our favorite collections of the week. Rachel Bilson rocked Suno, one of our Fashionista 15. And Vogue cover girl Carey Mulligan looked lovely in Elie Saab in Toronto and can definitely hold her own amongst the fashion week crowd.
Shoe designer Jean-Michel Cazabat undoubtedly has a certain “look.” It’s one of toughness, but with a certain sparkly glamor that only a Frenchman could pull off. For his inaugural New York Fashion Week presentation, the cobbler enlisted Rick Owens aficionado Becka Diamond as a spokesmodel of sorts. The scenester posed with Cazabat in a pair of sharp booties, further reinforcing the fashion crowd’s love of his aesthetic.
We caught up with Cazabat post-show:
We love this look–and so do designers. Everyone from Rachel Roy to Matthew Ames to Marc by Marc Jacobs experimented with it. But it’s not the easiest to pull off. How will you style your below-the-knee skirt?
Even though it might sound like a high school dance, don’t be fooled. Dossier’s “Homecoming” was nothing like a traditional spirit week.
Everyone in the biz has been so consumed with New York Fashion Week over the last eight days that we all nearly forgot it doesn’t last forever. Enter Dossier. The magazine’s ‘Homecoming’ event series was a five-day long celebration aimed at bringing the downtown scene back together to celebrate music, literature, film, and, of course, fashion. The intimate series of live concerts, discussions, readings, film screenings, and “happenings” kicked off last Saturday when Dossier celebrated the launch of their sixth issue featuring Freja Beha on the cover (the issue has also got a feature on it-girl-in-the-making Elle Fanning), and they capped off the week with one final hurrah.
While perusing Adam’s latest collection, someone noticed the striking similarity between this tunic and a Karen Walker piece from…two years ago. They’re pretty much identical–the flower shape in the lace is slightly different (Walker’s is prettier), but everything else – the color, the silhouette, the buttons, the tiers in the middle, the collar–is exactly the same. This doesn’t look good, Mr. Lippes.
fter the brand’s successful foray into online streaming with its Resort 2011 show, Oscar de la Renta will once again be offering the opportunity to watch their Spring/Summer 2011 show live at 5pm EST with backstage coverage beginning at 4:30pm EST. You can tune in here to Fashionista at 4:30pm to watch the livestream. After the show, there will be special items that can be purchased right off the runway.
Style Trek, a new hybrid e-commerce and social networking site, launched this week. Founder Cecilia Pagkalinawan, who previously helped market and launch ecommerce for Burberry, Frette and La Perla, describes the site as “Facebook meets Net-A-Porter for emerging designers.”
The site currently features collections from 20 designers across the globe, and the plan is to add more designers in the coming months. To call them all “emerging” designers would be a bit misleading though. Some, like Nicole Noselli and Daphne Gutierrez who design Bruce, are better described as “re-emerging”–their line Bruce picked up a CFDA award back in 2001, they took a break for a while, and now they’re back. Mexican design duo Rafa Cuevas and Roberto Sanchez’s line Teamo (as in “te amo”) is big in Mexico but they’re looking to reach consumers in the states. Pagkalinawan finds designers through tips from industry insiders. Buyers pass along designers they like but can’t stock because they’re either too small or they’ve already reached capacity for their contemporary floors. Hopefully, they find a home on Style Trek.
While most ecommerce sites simply curate merchadise, Style Trek aims to allow shoppers and designers to communicate and engage with one another. Designers have profile pages so consumers get a better sense of the personality behind the product. Consumers can become “Style Trekkers” and create their own profiles to connect with other shoppers and designers, and “like” products, which allows Style Trek to track trends and adjust inventory accordingly.
From seafoam to chartreuse, green was everywhere at New York Fashion Week Spring 2011.
We didn’t make it to the Dazed party at Don Hill’s last night (although we heard a bunch of people got arrested, so maybe that’s a good thing), but we did manage to stop by the Creatures of Comfort New York store launch on Mulberry Street and Style.com‘s 10th anniversary bash, which was taking place just a couple of blocks away.
Creatures of Comfort, a Los Angeles-based brick and mortar store, label, and online shopping destination for Rachel Comey and VPL-lovers across the country, is opening up shop in New York. Owner Jade Lai hosted a party in her expansive new space last night, and tons of our favorite designers were there: Tiffany Tuttle, Comey, Peter Jensen, Victoria Bartlett, Daphne Javitch, and plenty more. And of course Lai around, not only touting her new storefront, but also her INCREDIBLE in-house collection, which both Leah and I melted over. It’s gently priced–in the $150-$350 range–and everything is a mix and match of silk cropped blouses, tie-waist dresses, and loose blazers. Most was made from a delicate crepe, with some cotton mixed in. And the color palette? Seafoam, terra cotta, white, periwinkle…everything we want for spring.
But soon it was time to head to Lafayette for Style.com‘s 10th anniversary party.
At the Mulberry party on Soho House’s roof, Florence and the Machine played an acoustic set (her voice, a guitar and a harp) for about 200 lucky onlookers, most of whom (all but about 50 of us) were idiot fashion fools talking throughout the set.
They played six songs, ending with Dog Days, and calling designer Emma Hill on stage twice to thank her.
Kelly Osborne and Alexa Chung celebullied their way to the front of the intimate show.
All in all, great show, potentially ruined by loud celebutards, and their wispy accouterments.
Click through for more photos from last night’s fete.
“There was me, that is Alex, and my three droogs, that is Pete, Georgie, and Dim, and we sat in the Korova Milkbar trying to make up our rassoodocks what to do with the evening.”
Oh Alex, how you scared the socks off of me when I was twelve and I first watched you raise havoc in A Clockwork Orange. Though Antonio Azzuolo may have taken his lead from Stanley Kubrick’s dystopian film, with his bowler hats and vests, the socks have stayed on, and he’s pulled them up in fact, to the knees. These work to great effect with some very short shorts, precisely cut jackets and brightly-striped knits, paired with casual button-downs that reminded me of prep school seniors, just released from class.
Let’s call it naughtily natty. Let’s also call it awesome, daring, and a sign of an exciting up-and-comer.
n two short years, Milk Studios has become the place to show at New York Fashion Week. While Lincoln Center’s got the grandeur, Milk’s got the cool factor.
But who’s responsible for its success? Of course there’s Mazdack Rassi, creative director of Milk Studios and the unofficial face of MAC&Milk. But who else works behind the scenes? We’ve highlighted four major players who make MAC&Milk happen.
From Jessica Szor in Ralph to Leigh Lezark in perfection, this week is shaping up to be a red carpet wonderland.
Happy birthday, Style.com! The granddaddy of all fashion sites turns 10 this week, and its celebrating with a limited edition run of t-shirts created by ten top designers. We got a sneak peek of the first five tees, made by Lanvin, Alex Wang, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, and Balmain.
Nicole Phelps, one of our favorite runway show reviewers and executive editor of Style, says that the staff wanted to give the designers “a blank canvas to work with. Plus, people love tees. Ours are a nice, affordable $45 and a portion of the proceeds go to Computers For Youth.” The common denominator? Each designer used the roman numeral X in their work.
Want one of these slouchy stunners for yourself? They’ll be for sale at Style.com’s mobile pop-up shop in Madison Square Park on September 15, on the site September 16. Click through to see the designer’s work.
What pageant winner refused to take a picture with a little girl at Lincoln Center yesterday? The darling asked nicely, but the queen ignored her request.
We got you a first-hand review of Tom Ford’s super exclusive show, and now photos from that show, photos that we thought weren’t supposed to get out as we heard everyone had to sign a nondisclosure agreement (the same agreement that forced us to pull our audio of the show), have leaked. Here is everyone’s head shot before the show–from Julianne Moore to Beyonce to Daphne Guinness to Lauren Hutton–they’re all present and accounted for.
And now it seems OK to post photos from the show, as Cathy Horyn has posted photos she snapped while at the show on the NYT‘s website. Or maybe it’s just OK if you’re the Grey Lady. But Horyn’s photos do look kinda stalker-y right?
Click through to check out Horyn’s photos of the show and the rest of the headshots.
Which makes total sense–Ford’s presentation was a huge undertaking. But what’s maybe more interesting is that the formatting of the shows was nearly identical, says our source.
We love Tom and we love VB, and of course we love Carine, so we’re not about to get in the middle of this. But it is an interesting thought–remember what happened last Paris Fashion Week?
It’s been a rumor for over three months, and now it’s confirmed: Superstar stylist Nicola Formichetti is now the creative director at French fashion house Thierry Mugler, which is owned by Clarins. His first collection will be for Fall 2011.
Formichetti will have two head designers directly under him: Sébastien Peigné for womenswear, and Romain Kremer for menswear. Peigné has spent the last ten years working with Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga, and Hyères-winner Kremer designs an eponymous collection.
The group is quite young and innovative–Formichetti is just 33, Peigné is 30, and Kremer is 28–so it’ll be interesting to see whether or not they turn the house upside down.
Regardless, they’re sure to stay true to Mugler’s original vision. Formichetti is obviously a huge fan–he’s used Mugler’s costumes in a Gaga video or two.
Fashionista contributor Long Nguyen is the co-founder/style director of Flaunt.
Just a few minutes past midnight last night Alice Cooper took the stage and performed his perennial hit “School’s Out,” released in 1972. This was just moments after ZZ Top sang “Foxy Lady.” Darling Stilettos did the CBGB Ramones classics “Blitzkrieg Pop,” and Donovan Leitch–with Camp Freddy and Perry Farrell–closed the show with the Jane Addiction classic “The Mountain Song.” And that’s only a partial line up of the rockers that came out to perform in celebration of the launch of Original Moonshine and the tenth anniversary of John Varvatos’ menswear collection at the former CBGB space on Bowery, now Varvatos’ store selling his main, USA and Converse collections. Rock & Roll, whiskey and fashion.
Designer fashion requires a narrative–a way of telling a story or relating a lifestyle that the clothes are mere accoutrements. For Mr. Varvatos, it’s his early affection for rock music that has provided the blood that has flowed through his work since launching his first collection for fall 2000. In his office it’s hard to locate a book on fashion, but the piles on his long coffee table include The Illustrated Biography of Bob Dylan, Rock Record 7, CBGB: Decade of Graffiti History and Punk, Made in the U.K – The Music Attitude 1977-1983, Who Shot Rock & Roll, and Ryan Adams and the Cardinals: A View of Other Windows. And off course a tome on The Doors, just to name a few. In reconnecting with his adolescent obsession with rock music Mr. Varvatos gives the brand a soul, or what we call “fashion.”
By 9pm last night Leah and I were getting a little loopy: Mostly because we both love to eat and we hadn’t had time to, save for a bag of Pop Chips, since the early morning. So we headed over to Peels–the new restaurant from the Freemans guys–with Britt, who stared at us in awe as we devoured this steak. (In our defense: We shared it! And the bone just made it look bigger!)
Then it was off to Alex Wang’s carnival over by the IAC building. Pretty much every person who works in fashion/has something to do with fashion was there–from Alessandra Ambrosio to MIA, who was supposed to perform but maybe never did? No one seems to have stuck around for it. Fortunately, the parking lot was so massive that it wasn’t crazy crowded–we had an amazing, amazing time. Belvedere vodka sponsored the carnival, which included a carousel–yes, we rode it–bumper cars–line was too long–and a crazy amount of games. Leah won at basketball, Britt won at knocking down the clown heads, I won at nothing–well, maybe ski ball, but there were no prizes for that. All in all, it was the best fashion party I’ve been to in a long time–maybe ever.
While we were at Alex, Dhani was at United Bamboo. She told me this morning that it, too was a grand time. “It was fun–The Wooly drew lots of well-dressed people despite its out of the way location,” she told me. “I didn’t recognize anyone but everyone looked cool.” Fair enough.
After Wang we headed down to Don Hill’s to see Courtney Love perform.
The wunderkind’s got a lot going on. That might be partially due to the fact that she recently acquired an agent. Her parents–who you know, have jobs–just didn’t have the time to handle all the requests coming in. I’m sure they’re also sick of attending fashion shows, so it’s nice that Tavi has someone to step in as a sort of protector. We don’t know much about this mystery woman, but a tipster sent us some picks of who we think by be her agent styling Tavi for a street shoot with Scott Schuman:
Sure there was sand on the runway and there were floaty dresses and soleless sandals at Jen Kao’s show at Milk yesterday, but there was a dark undercurrent running through her collection. Chris Isaac’s “Wicked Games” played for the entire length of the show, and Kao’s line sheets said that she was “inspired by the arid sands and shifting light of the powdery dunes where desert princes find their zombie brides.” Ok…? The zombie bride thing didn’t exactly come across but Kao’s color palette–sand, off-white, dusty rose–certainly gave off a desert vibe. Models strolled through the sand in over-sized slouchy knits and loose airy dresses, most of which were crocheted and macramed, and paired with soleless macrame thongs and shin guards. The stand out look? A dusty rose gown with intricate paneling at the bodice.
Five minutes on the phone with Zac Posen and I’m sold. Sold on the Zac Sack, his new signature bag for the Z Spoke line, sold on his Z-Spoke “Sex Dresses” (we’ll get to that in a moment), and sold on the designer himself. For all his artistry, the former wunderkind is also a salesman. To wit: not only does the Zac Sack strike the perfect balance between uptown lady and downtown grunge gal, Posen declares, it can also make a great in-flight pillow for those tight economy seats. Really.
He may be eccentric, but he’s right about the bag. It’s the perfect size—no Olsen-sized monster or annoyingly tiny clutch for the Z Spoke girl—comes in spot-on colors, and has thoughtful details, like the row of grooves on the underside of its handle to make grasping it on your train commute that much more comfortable. Knowing a man might need assistance in imagining the myriad requirements an ideal bag should fulfill, he hired a female accessories designer (Yaz Buket, an Egyptian princess with a jewelry line at Colette), and used his devoted celebrity following as a testing audience.
“Every actress that came in the studio had to have a go with the prototype,” he told me, which is how Claire Danes, Alexa Chung and Dita von Teese were all spotted carrying the bag even before its release this week at Saks Fifth Avenue. And he credits his experience with Target with giving him the know-how to create a supple leather bag (lined in silk faille, no less) for $525, explaining it was the mega-retailer that taught him to “put what you can do into the product [versus advertising or packaging], and to make the right, intelligent choices.”
During Fashion Week, there’s only one accessory carried by editors, stylists, and bloggers at every show: the informational pamphlet. It numbers the progression of looks, making it easy to follow along and circle favorites, and details the designer’s inspiration behind the show. (After all, some collections warrant written word. Headbands + ripped denim = “Blair Waldorf does Coachella”? Oh, okay.)
But sometimes the vision is niche, and sometimes it’s not. At yesterday’s Bensoni presentation, the pamphlet attempted to pinpoint the inspiration behind designers Sonia Yoon and Benjamin Channing Clyburn’s collection, but perhaps raised more questions than it answered. A paradox of “grounded and restless, traditional and iconoclastic, serene and daring, elegant and slight disheveled, sensible and spontaneous” it read. Really, what else is there?
We cannot believe Fashion’s Night Out is really here. Something like a thousand shopping events are actually happening. Tonight. And they all sound amazing and, in New York, whether they’re uptown or downtown, you probably want to go to all of them. While that is simply unrealistic, we are getting some help from Volkswagon, who are providing us with a fancy new 2011 Jetta to transport us and our shopping bags around what in a few short hours will be a total shitshow of a city.
Jealous? Don’t be – From now until 12:00 a.m., shoppers can visit two Volkswagen Style Express locations for a ride uptown or downtown in the all-new 2011 Jetta: 50th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues; and Greene Street between Spring and Prince Streets. If these end up running smoothly and often, it’s probably your best bet if you want to play ping pong at Barneys before getting a manicure at the Soho Chanel store.
According to some well-placed sources, Brit Brit will be performing at Don Hill’s tonight. (Weirdly, there was a joke about this in The Daily, but we hear that it’s actually true.) The venue was recently acquired by Paul Sevigny, which means all the cool people now hang out there regularly. Again. (Courtney Love is rumored to be around there this weekend, too.)
By the time Brit hits the stage we’ll probably be asleep, but to all you early-twenty-something-hot-scenesters, it might be worth dropping by.
I can’t think of a more surreal experience than being in class at a fashion school, finding out your designs are on the cover of WWD, leaving class to go get a copy and coming back to your professor yelling at you. Exactly one year ago today, this happened to Alan Eckstein, one half of Timo Weiland. If that’s not an indicator of good things to come for a brand new designer, I don’t know what is. It seems like overnight, Timo Weiland and Alan Eckstein–two very young self-proclaimed “fashion geeks” with no technical training–grew a small line of neckwear into a successful full-fledged men’s and women’s clothing line that will show at Lincoln Center on Sunday.
Also an integral part of the team, Donna Kang, the only one with a technical fashion background, is behind the scenes helping to make beautiful things happen. Together, they are unstoppable. We sat down with them in their tiny garment district office/studio to try to figure out how they came together and made all this happen in such a short a mount of time.
On Tuesday, September 14, Grey Ant–who are best known for their jeans– will be holding their NYFW show while also celebrating the re-launch the Grey Ant Collection after taking a few seasons off. We were lucky enough to get a sneak peek at some of the pieces, including a Grace Jones detailed cotton silk dress, an amazing cardboard and leather platform, and their Kennedy sunglasses–all of which will debut on the runway come Tuesday. Grey Ant says that their collection was inspired by their move to New York City from Los Angeles, after taking residence in the CFDA’s Fashion Incubator. Take a look at some of their one-of a-kind pieces.
Last night’s Chanel party to celebrate the re-opening of the brand’s Soho store was the place to see and be seen. The store was so A-list star saturated you couldn’t move without bumping into one. I almost inadvertently tripped Russell Simmons with my way-too-big bag. And I kind of froze when I came face to Read more →
Which designer is so hard to work with that his casting director dropped him two days before the show and now has his family members calling around to find models?
I’ve had some crazy experiences in my life, but the last place I expected to find myself on the first day of New York Fashion Week was in a Midtown dance studio watching Naomi Campbell bust a move. But it happened. And it was kind of amazing.
Naomi and a gaggle of young models were rehearsing their Fashion’s Night Out performance, which will take place tonight at Dolce & Gabbana’s New York flagship on Madison Ave. The dance, put together by Campbell’s friend Laurie Gibson, features Naomi fist-pumping to Jay-Z, Rihanna, and Kanye West in “Run this Town.” Gibson, who’s made a name for herself choreographing tons of music videos, including Lady Gaga’s, is so positive and encouraging I almost wanted to jump in there. “It doesn’t have to be perfect, just honest” she tells the girls. “Except for the marches–those have to be perfect–you’re models!”
The theme of Dolce & Gabbana’s FNO party is, simply, Naomi. She’s been in the business for 25 years, so they’re celebrating with limited edition t-shirts featuring iconic images of Naomi taken by the likes of Patrick Demarchelier and Steven Meisel. I got the chance to chat with the Super for a few minutes. She was very humble and genuinely excited about the whole thing. “It’s such an honor to work with Laurel,” she told me. “I studied dance and I always wished I could do dance or performance. But I chose a career as a model instead. This is a dream come true.” As for what she thinks about an entire evening dedicated to her career: “The whole thing is just really fun. It’s a celebration.”
Click through for my photo diary of the rehearsal.
It’s the Tommy Hilfiger brand’s 25th birthday this season, and on Sunday we’re in for what is sure to be a fabulous runway show, followed by a big party where The Strokes are rumored to be playing.
But until then, Tommy wants to get into your head. The company has launched a new ad campaign entitled Meet the Hilfigers–you might have noticed it in the September books–featuring Fall 2010 runway looks. But this isn’t your typical print campaign. Each model plays a character, from wannabe actor Noah to off-kilter socialite Issie. (You can read all about them here.) Starting today, the Hilfigers will begin making public appearances. First at the US Open, then at Fashion’s Night Out.
Here’s the social media bit: Each of the characters–Chloe, Noah, Jacquelyn, and Lea–will be broadcasting their “lives” via Twitter. Their handles will be announced shortly via the official Tommy Hilfiger Facebook and Twitter pages.
This is all kind of goofy, but in a good way. (Plus, it doesn’t hurt the Hilfiger boys are all pretty cute.) So many big brands–luxury, mass, and in-between–are ultra lazy when it comes to social media. They think throwing up a Facebook page and calling it a day works–it doesn’t. We applaud Tommy for doing something different and are eager to see how it pans out.
Over 200 designers will show collections at New York Fashion Week, which kicks off today. But who should you be watching?
Welcome to the Fashionista 15. There’s no complicated methodology to this–no rigid ranking. These 15 labels are simply the ones we know you should be paying attention to. We’ve used our own research and reporting–as well as recommendations from our industry friends and sources–to bring you the brands that in two, three, five years will be winning Swarovski Awards and CFDA mentorships. They’ll be collaborating with Target or Urban Outfitters. They’re changing New York fashion. And they’re having fun doing it. Click through to see our picks–who tops your list?
If you’ve been to a big show at New York Fashion Week, you know Gayle Dizon’s work. She’s the powerhouse behind Dizon, Inc., a 10-year-old event production company that organizes shows for the likes of Proenza Schouler, ADAM, and Thakoon. She also happens to be one of the nicest people I’ve ever met in the industry. People that work with her/have worked with her have nothing but good things to say–and that’s a true test of success.
Gayle was gracious enough to answer our standard questions on how to succeed in fashion. We hope you learn something–we sure did!
How did you get started?
Before and after Fashion’s Night Out: The Show, I made my way to the night’s two biggest events: The launch of Jessica Simpson’s denim collection and the Kate Spade/Elizabeth Arden-hosted dinner to celebrate the launch of the brand’s new fragrance, Twirl.
Simpson’s soiree was a lively party in her apparel label’s showroom, DJed by brother-in-law Pete Wentz and featuring Simpson and friends show off the jeans, as well as some Spring 2011 offerings. The snacks were good–mini everything, from grilled cheese to hamburgers to BLTs–and the atmosphere was bright and buzzy. Simpson’s friends, including CaCee Cobb (who we’re particularly fond of because she’s married to Donald Faison, aka Murray from Clueless) scooted around the room in their new clothes. In reality, there were few actually examining at the wares–most onlookers seemed to want to get a good view of Simpson’s bod rather than her jeans. But I’ll say that there were some lovely shoes in the mix–particularly a pair of brown heeled hiking boots. Simpson’s shoe collection–when she’s not knocking off other labels–is really great. There–I’m admitting it!
I soon moved on to FNO: The Show, which you can read about here. Then it was time to head down to Tribeca, where the Kate Spade gals were clinking champagne at the Smyth Hotel’s Plein Sud in honor of Twirl, a new fragrance produced in conjunction with Elizabeth Arden.
Model castings can be a black hole in the minds of the fashion press, since most occur very privately, behind closed doors. Luckily enough for us, however, casting director Andrew Weir of ACW Worldwide invited us to observe a massive casting for the Spring 2011 season.
Hopping at the chance to see models in their natural habitat, I made sure not to miss this event. Hundreds of girls lined the hallways of the Hudson Hotel, books and heels in hand. Inside the gorgeous Husdon Library, girls were photographed, walked, “scored,” and entered into ACW’s database in a flurry of business and buzz. To the untrained eye it was tough to distinguish which models were the best and which were the worst, until they walked. The best girls had strides long and fast, their hair flying in a self-generated breeze, among them Fashionista faves Ashley Smith, Ann Kenny, and Kirby Kenny.
Andrew Weir found six gems at his casting, sure to be the big stars of Spring 2011. It’s all about that je ne sais quoi for Mr. Weir, as well as finding “strong, beautiful, healthy, magnificent women.”
Click through to see the modeling superstars in the making.
Last night, I got a taste of what New York Fashion Week would be like if it was produced by Anna Wintour. Every show would begin on time. Only the best of the best designers would be invited to participate. And the music would be very, very good.
That pretty much sums up Fashion’s Night Out: The Show, which took place last night at the courtyard in Lincoln Center. Over a 1,000 looks–styled by Tabitha Simmons and Edward Enninful–stomped down a twisting runway that must have been a quarter of a mile long in total. Everyone–from Alex Wang to Balenciaga–was featured. Simmons and Enninful chose to style the models as they were originally styled, meaning Prada‘s girls got boufants, and Balenciaga’s wore pastel eyebrows. It was unoriginal, but with so many looks, understandable. Pretty much every model working today walked, including favorites of mine like Dree Hemingway and Ashley Smith. Gisele even made an appearance near the end, shortly after NERD performed in the center of the venue.
The paper program was masterful, save for a weirdly photo-shopped Lara Stone on the cover. (A friend said that her waist “looked tinier than Karly’s–creepy.”) Every single clothing credit was included, which is a two day-long job on its own.
All in all, it was a successful event. Especially for those who hadn’t seen these looks come down the runway last February.
Last week, we asked psychic Roxanne Hulderman to predict the future for five New York designers. This week, we want you to predict what their Spring 2011 runway soundtracks will sound like based on their iPods. Oh, and you also have to match the designer to his or her playlist! Click through to play. Everyone from Max Osterweis of SUNO to Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Vena Cava has participated–have fun!
You’ve probably seen Leifsdottir at department stores like Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf–you’ve probably also spotted it at your local Anthropologie. That’s because the label–like its other standalone Free People–is owned and operated by Urban Outfitters, Inc.
The contemporary consumer’s love for the collection has made it a standout for the Anthropologie brand. In fact, it’s so well received that the label decided to host its presentation at Lincoln Center this season. I recently caught up with Leifsdottir designer Johanna Uurasjarvi, who gave me a few hints about what to expect from the label’s first big show, as well as details on its new shoe collection.
Fashionista: Can you give me an idea of the theme of the season?
Johanna Uurasjarvi: The collection is inspired by my trip to the Amazon last spring and serpent photography by Guido Mocafico. It is a study of nature–contrasting the amazingly beautiful and the darker side.
There are those guests at a party who need everyone to know who, where and how they are at all times; they are loud and brash, and annoying in anything but the smallest doses. And then there are those who don’t need to make a racket, who are interesting or beautiful, or both, and can simply let the party come to them. If collections are party guests, Carlos Campos’s Spring/Summer 2011 would be the latter, and if I couldn’t talk to him all night, I’d just be happy to sit back and watch others do so.
Campos has effectively synthesized light knits and cottons with the sophistication and refinement we’ve come to expect from the 39-year old Honduran-American.
While he’s previously described the man who wears his clothes as “a clean rock star,” for next spring, he’s envisioned a young man traveling through Europe, “backpacking, but in a chic way.” No word whether he’s traveling with his axe, but Campos’s more fitted looks have given way to a more relaxed look, like his white 100% prima cotton pants, which give the legs some breathing room without descending into the realm of the too-casual.
I did get a personal reading–Roxanne is amazing!–but more importantly, I asked the well-regarded fortune teller to predict the future for five of New York Fashion Week’s biggest stars. Click through to see what she had to say.
So, despite what you’ve seen and heard, fashion people loooovvve to eat. And they love to eat really, really good food.
The Fashionista staff is not immune to this. In fact, we embrace it wholeheartedly. But there’s not much time to dig-in during New York Fashion Week. So we’ve rounded up our favorite spots, events, and parties that might end up being more about the food than the scene. And maybe even the clothes.
Bird‘s Fashion’s Night Out event takes the cake though (and we do hope there will be cake). Owner Jen Mankins has some serious foodie clout in addition to her discerning fashion eye. After the jump, she dishes on she how she wrangled the Brooklyn foodie elite and her favorite meals at Frankie’s and Prime Meats.
NYFW invites have started pouring in and so far, one stands out above the rest in terms of scale, style, and sheer adorable-ness: Mulberry’s show and party invites (they came as a set). The invite to the show is an adorable line drawing of a pug with a Mulberry dog collar. His owner? A beautiful silhouetted line drawing of a girl in a flirty ruffled dress, her braided hair in a ponytail and cinched with a hot pink bow. She’s the party invite, and she stands about two feet tall when all of her adjustable limbs are lined up.
We thought the drawings looked a little Garance-like, but Garance is more minimalist with her line figures. The charming invites are the handy work of artist Natasha Law, Jude’s big sis. Law is known for her sexy fashion-y line figure and clothing drawings. Her works are often color-blocked and focus in on sections of the female figure. We’re big fans.
Everyone’s favorite Rick-Owens-clad fashion assistant, Andrew Mukamal, has got himself a fashion week styling gig. The Kell on Earth scene stealer will style Kimberly Taylor’s Spring/Summer 2011 Presentation at the Plaza on Wednesday, September 8th.
It’s a partnership that makes sense. Both Taylor and Mukamal are young, social media savvy up-and-comers in the industry, and Mukamal’s name should bring (even more) attention to Taylor’s line. No word yet on whether Bravo has decided to give season two of Kell on Earth the green light (we’re hoping they do), so if Mukamal’s stint as fashion reality tv’s darling is over, it makes sense that he’s focusing on his styling/consulting career.
Rucci’s reasoning has to do with the extended medical leave of his president, Vivian Van Natta. He’ll save about $500,000 by meeting with interested parties one-on-one.
We hope other designers will follow suit. While nothing beats the runway when it comes to creating excitement and buzz around a brand, less-outlandish designers benefit from showing off the high quality of their clothes up-close. Rucci’s pieces are nearly couture-level, and those who want to buy a piece–or ten–will be able to easily examine the items without the hassle of a big production.
Designer Lyn Devon–who much like Rucci, boasts a sizable made-to-order business–has been using this approach for years.
John Varvatos is turning 10 this year, and the label is hosting a big party during New York Fashion Week to celebrate. In honor of all those who’ve bought special edition Chuck’s, smartly tailored suits and waffle tees over the years, JV is flying out a winner and a guest to New York City for the September 11 extravaganza, which includes a concert at the Bowery flagship.
Details on who’s performing yet have not yet been released, but past celebrations have included Axl Rose, Joan Jett, Perry Farrell, Alice Cooper, and Slash…so you get the idea.