New York Spring 2012
Simon Spurr Spring 2012: City Boys with Country Charm, Plus Our Exclusive Backstage Diary with the Designer
Reviews
/// All Designers \\\
- 3.1 Phillip Lim
- ADAM
- Alexander Wang
- Alexandre Plokhov
- Alice+Olivia
- Anna Sui
- Antonio Azzuolo
- Band of Outsiders
- BCBG Max Azria
- Betsey Johnson
- Billy Reid
- Brood
- Carolina Herrera
- Charlotte Ronson
- Chris Benz
- Christian Dior
- Christian Siriano
- Creatures of the Wind
- Cushnie et Ochs
- Cynthia Rowley
- Cynthia Steffe
- Derek Lam
- Diane von Furstenberg
- DKNY
- Donna Karan
- Doo.Ri
- Doru Olowu
- Duro Olowu
- Erin Fetherston
- Eryn Brinié
- Felipe Oliveira Baptista
- Fenton/Fallon
- Gap
- Giulietta
- Helmut Lang
- Hervé Léger by Max Azria
- Honor
- J.Crew Womens
- Jason Wu
- Jen Kao
- Jenny Packham
- Jeremy Laing
- Jeremy Scott
- Jill Stuart
- Joseph Altuzarra
- Karen Walker
- Kate Spade
- Katie Ermilio
- Kevork Kiledjian
- Kimberly Ovitz
- Lacoste
- Lela Rose
- L'Wren Scott
- Lyn Devon
- Mara Hoffman
- Marc by Marc Jacobs
- Marc Jacobs
- Mark Fast
- Michael Kors
- Milly
- Monique Lhuillier
- Nahm
- Nanette Lepore
- Narciso Rodriguez
- Nicole Miller
- Nomia
- Oscar de la Renta
- Pamela Love
- Patick Ervell
- Peter Som
- Prabal Gurung
- Preen
- Proenza Schouler
- Rachel Antonoff
- Rachel Comey
- Rachel Roy
- Rag & Bone
- Ralph Lauren
- Rebecca Minkoff
- Rebecca Taylor
- Reed Krakoff
- Richard Chai
- Rodarte
- Simon Spurr
- Sophie Theallet
- Steven Alan
- SUNO
- The Blonds
- Theysken's Theory
- Tibi
- Timo Weiland
- Tommy Hilfiger
- Tory Burch
- Tracy Reese
- United Bamboo
- Vera Wang
- Victoria Beckham
- VPL
- Wayne
- Wes Gordon
- Zero + Maria Cornejo
More from New York
Trendspotting: Mad for Plaid
Blue sheer plaid, anyone? Looks like Marc Jacobs, Raf Simons, and Rachel Comey all got the same memo about aqua hued plaid for spring 2012. Not that we’re complaining! The see-through plaids are a lovely way to express your inner nerd while still retaining some sex appeal.
Trendspotting: Crop That Top!
Start doing your sit-ups now because the crop top is having its resurgence moment for spring 2012. Everyone from Acne to D&G to Prada showed crop tops on the runway, in all shapes and sizes. (Well, from small to teensy that is.) Which tiny style is your favorite?
Trendspotting: Funny Sunnies
Let’s hope next spring is a sunny one because designers are putting their best lenses forward for spring 2012. From Giles’ kooky cartoon glasses to Rag & Bone’s goggle-like shades. Next spring’s eyewear isn’t joking around, but it certainly is funny looking. Would you wear such kooky sunglasses?
Trendspotting: Roaring ’20s
It wasn’t enough that the latter part of New York Fashion Week was dancing the Charleston (well, not literally), or that a select few London shows saw their waistlines drop. Now, Milan has jumped on board the 1920s trend, and that was just in the first day. You may have noticed some vintage-inspired looks at Gucci or even Alberta Ferretti’s light-as-air exits at the beginning of the show.
Filming of Baz Luhrmann’s The Great Gatsby is underway in Australia and we think designers are getting a little inspired.
New York Fashion Week Spring 2012 Diversity Report: Calvin Klein, United Bamboo and Preen Score Lowest
New York Fashion Week wrapped last Thurdsay, and while the event won it’s fair share of sartorial praise, for many it was yet another reminder of how painfully un-diverse the fashion world and particularly, the runway, is.
The site Loop21 has analyzed diversity on the New York runways for a few seasons now, and the spring 2012 report is in. The site found an uptick in the number of models of color on the runways this season, highlighting the efforts of Tracy Reese, J.Crew, St. John and Imitation of Christ for putting on the most diverse shows. Kudos also to Costello Tagliapietra, Ohne Titel and Rad Hourani, each of whom cast over half their shows with non-white models.
But while numbers may have been up since last year (where 25 out of 144 shows featured no black models at all), they’re still pretty dismal. According to the report, out of more than 200 designers showing at New York Fashion Week, 20 of them featured no black models. And for the most part, the runways are mainly white, with percentages of models of color hovering somewhere in the 20% region.
Writing for the Huffington Post, Loop21 contributing editor Kelly Goff notes that there are still some designers who could do better.
Best Dressed: New York Fashion Week (In Rainbow Order)
We obviously couldn’t highlight just five best dressed from New York Fashion Week–where editors and celebs alike turn out in get ups that out shine any red carpet (at least in our humble opinions). So from Elle Fanning to Shala Monroque to Sofia Coppola to Alexa Chung, here’s a look at who killed it outside Read more →
Fashion Week Mad Libs: Bespoken
Now that New York fashion week is over, we can bet the Bespoken boys are fast asleep, kind of like Cole Mohr in their Spring/Summer 2012 look book. If their mad libs seem a little schizophrenic, that’s because designers Paulo Goncalves, Sam Fayed, and Liam Fayed all filled it out together. Enjoy!
New York Fashion Week Spring 2012: The 10 Best Collections
New York Fashion Week has come to an end. And while what we really want to do is shut off our computers and tune out on Bravo, there are a few collections (sadly only a few) that we still can’t stop thinking about. So, here are our ten favorites, in no particular order.
Also, London Fashion Week started today, so stay tuned for more reviews!
New York Fashion Week Spring 2012 Beauty Roundup: 10 Runway Looks You Should Not Try At Home
Most of the beauty looks this season were minimal, natural, and quite pretty and wearable (well, except the wet mullets). But those aren’t fun to look at, are they? No, we don’t think so either.
So please click through to see the 10 looks that we never hope to see on someone in the subway at three in the afternoon but that we loved seeing on the runways.
Watch: This Amazing Video of Video of Fashion Peeps Dancing Is Your Reward for Finishing the Week
Congratulations, you made it through Fashion Week! And as a treat for making it through all those shows, industry parties and celebrity sightings, some lovely person by the name of David Sherwin has created this amazing video of NYFW-attendees dancing to the tune of Pitbull’s “I Know You Want Me.”
If that doesn’t sound like the awesome-est thing already, get psyched for seeing some of our favorite industry adorables, like Susie Lau of Style Bubble and Phil Oh of Streetpeeper shake their groove thing. It’s truly the antidote to any post-Fashion-Week blues–and it’s a visual refute to the accusation that the Fashion Week takes themselves too seriously.
Kendall Jenner Finally Makes Her Runway Debut (Yes, She’s Under 16 Too)
When we heard Kylie Jenner would be walking in Avril Lavigne’s Abbey Dawn show this fashion week, we have to admit we were a little surprised to hear we wouldn’t be seeing Kendall on the runway. While both are tall and pretty, we’ve seen Kendall pursue her modeling career on Keeping Up With the Kardashians (come on, you know you watch too).
Maybe she was too scared or didn’t want to Pippa her little sis. Or, perhaps Sherri Hill, the line of prom wear that Kendall has been the face of for almost a year, had an exclusive on the in-demand model.
She walked in three very flashy outfits for Sherri Hill’s runway show Wednesday night while Kim and Kourtney looked on from the front row. Hopefully Kris was backstage with Kendall, since she’s actually only 15, still under the CFDA-recommended 16-year age minimum for runway models (though we realize, duh, Sherry Hill is not a member of the CFDA). But, as we’ve learned, the Jenners don’t seem to care about that and it’s not like the CFDA can arrest them, so there ya go. Click through for a video, courtesy of E!
Fashion Week Mad Libs with Style Bubble’s Susie Lau!
Style Bubble’s Susie Lau explains her amazing fashion week life. But it’s the post-fashion week ritual that we really relate to: watching TV shows and looking “like a misshapen potato.” We’re with you on that one, Susie.
Trendspotting Spring 2012: Peplum-Palooza
The word “peplum” may give us flashbacks to Lisa Turtle (of Saved By the Bell) and the 80s, but this trend–which has been on fire this week–has (thankfully) steered clear of any such cliches. Designers have interpreted it over a wide spectrum of looks, from the sexy structure at Cushnie et Ochs to the flirty Read more →
Diesel Black Gold Spring 2012: Rock N’ Roll, All Grown Up
Diesel Black Gold shows in the same warehouse as Alexander Wang, but lately, that’s not all the two houses have in common. Since Sophia Kokosalaki took the helm four seasons ago, Diesel’s ditched distressed denim for sleeker fabrics, while keeping the brand’s rock & roll beat alive. Voilà: this season’s leather jackets, corseted harness dresses, and boyfriend trousers, all rendered in luxe metallics.
This Week’s Parties: Alexa Chung at Mulberry, Karen Elson Sings and Designs Shoes and Mischa Barton Looks Really Good
This week’s party highlights were for two very different brands, but both drew a similarly fabulous crowd (especially stylish Brits) and memorable music performances. Hayley danced the night away and drank margs with Alexa Chung Monday, while Dhani took in an amazing performance by Karen Elson and chatted with Mischa Barton Tuesday. Read on for deets and pics!
On Monday, Mulberry celebrated their 40th birthday in only the way that the quirky-cool English brand could pull off: With an all-out rager atop the Skylight Studios and all of fashion’s cool crowd in attendance.
Fashion Week Mad Libs with Stevie Dance!
Stylist and street-style-star Stevie Dance gives us the low-down on what gets her through NYFW, including some awesome tunes and a yummy dinner with the one and only Tommy Ton.
Behind the Scenes with MAC: How a Product Goes from a Model’s Face to Yours, Plus We Get the Scoop on Never-Before-Seen New Spring Launches
MAC is a powerhouse cosmetics brand backstage at fashion shows–they currently participate in 23 global Fashion Weeks and have provided the makeup looks at some 850 shows worldwide–200 of those are in the Big Four fashion capitols. The brand also incites a lot of lust in makeup junkies because of the rich pigments, high-wattage ambassadors (Lady Gaga! NIcki Minaj!), and killer collaborations. (We were begging–nay, pleading–for more information about the Gareth Pugh and Daphne Guinness collabs launching in early winter, only to be teased with, “They will blow you away!” Duh.)
We had the chance to to do a Q and A with Gordon Espinet and Jennifer Balbier, two senior VPs at MAC, and to hang around backstage with their makeup artists at the Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, and Altuzarra shows. What we learned is that being a brand like MAC is a bit of art and science.
New York Fashion Week Spring 2012 Beauty: Best Nail Art
What we actually want to wear on our nails and what we just like to look at on other people’s nails are two very different things sometimes. The nail artistry at this week’s New York fashion week actually veered both ways for us this season.
While nudes are still a thing, and orangey poppy reds (see Jason Wu) had a strong showing, there were a few surprises, too. Manicurist Jin Soon Choi told us backstage at Alexander Wang to watch for super dark colors (not very spring-like) mixed with brights–for example a mixed mani/pedi. She also said that bright colors with a 70s feeling like purple and turquoise would be big come spring.
The established designers went fairly minimal with makeup and nails this season, but we love that indie designers (and Betsey Johnson, of course!) are still taking nail risks.
Trendspotting Spring 2012: Orange Zest
New York has been full of brights the past week, none more obvious than the shades of orange that have already graced at least two dozen collections. From a single pop (Doo.Ri) to a longer stretch (Kimberly Ovitz), it’s about as attention-getting as a color can be. Why do you think they make traffic cones Read more →
Olivia Palermo’s Blog Will Finally Launch This Month! Plus She Dishes on Starting Her Own Line
Earlier this summer, WWD reported that Olivia Palermo would be launching a blog in August. But it’s almost the middle of September, and nothing has hit the web. So when we spotted the stylish starlet at Rachel Roy’s presentation, we had to get the scoop.
Fashionista: We heard you were going to launch a blog, is that still happening?
Yes, I’m launching this month. I pushed it back a little bit to make sure it’s just perfect; so it will launch at the end of this month for sure. We’re just working out the dates right now but I’m really, really excited.
Wyclef Jean on Working in one of Donna Karan’s Factories, Falling Asleep on the Job, and Haiti’s Sexy Side
We were surprised, at first, to see Wyclef Jean sitting in the front row at Donna Karan‘s spring 2012 show yesterday. But once we read the line sheets and saw the collection the connection was clear: Haiti. Karan’s collection was heavily influenced by travels to Haiti throughout the past year, and the Haitian musician is known for his charity work in his home country through his foundation, Yéle Haiti. What’s surprising though, is that Karan and Wyclef go way back.
We talked to Wyclef after the show to get his take on the collection, what he thought of the Haitian inspiration, and just how he and Karan got together.
Fashionista: So what brings you to Donna Karan’s show today? Did you work with her in anyway on this collection–besides performing at her after-party?
Wyclef Jean: I worked hand in hand with Donna and what I love about her is that I want people to know there’s a sexy side about Haiti–so when Donna comes and works with the artisans and starts bringing the jewelry back it’s incredible and this is just the start of it.
The Karadashian Krew Descends Upon NYFW to Watch Little Sis Kylie on the Katwalk
Last night punky pop singer Avril Lavigne showed her Abbey Dawn collection of “Music is My BF” tees, “Hell Yeah” wedge booties, and “Heartcore” dresses at the Metropolitan Pavilion as part of Style 360′s collection of shows during New York fashion week.
But the show wasn’t about the mall-rat-ready clothes. It was about the Kardashian’s. Kylie Jenner, 14, one of the youngest members of the Kardashian crew walked in the show (despite the CFDA’s guidelines suggesting models be at least 16), and most of her famous family came out to support her. Kourtney, Kim, and Kim’s new husband Kris Humphries were all there. So was Kylie’ half-brother Brody Jenner, who also happens to date the “designer.” (I guess music isn’t Avril’s BF?).
Once the paparazzi scrum receded and the flashbulbs stopped popping, the Kardashian’s cheered their sister on like any normal family as she walked the runway. They screamed, took photos, and when she closed the show, threw a bouquet at her. And when the show was over, their security swooped in, and the family was escorted backstage, trailed by paparazzi–a not-normal family once again.
Check out more photos of Kylie on the catwalk and her famous family.
Rachel Zoe Spring 2012: The Stylist-Turned-Designer on Her Brigitte Bardot-Inspired Collection
Rachel Zoe presented her second collection for her eponymous line today at at her showroom in midtown Manhattan. It was a hot-ticket show with a line snaking around 39th St. onto Broadway. And, ever the perfectionist, Zoe delivered. The showroom was abuzz (and aTwitter) with praise for Zoe, and before we got a chance to talk to her, stylist Mary Alice Stephensen gushed that she “LOVED IT” three times.
The collection of effortlessly sexy summery separates was inspired by “Brigitte Bardot in the south of France in the late ’60s early ’70s” Zoe told us. “It’s when she was running around being glamorous without ever trying to be glamorous.” Which is quite a thing to aspire to. But Zoe’s collection might just get you there.
Check out a few more snaps I took of the presentation. We’ll post the full gallery, review, and the deets on what Skyler Morrison Berman was wearing, later.
Kelly Osbourne On What Not to Wear on the Red Carpet and Madonna’s Secret Nickname
While waiting for Zac Posen’s show to start on the open air balcony of Avery Fisher Hall in Lincoln Center (review and pix to come) , we had the chance to chat with front-rower Kelly Osbourne. She’s ascended the fashion food chain as an E! red carpet interviewer and morning-after Fashion Police lady. She’s also the face of Madonna’s Material Girl label, so she rubs shoulders with some pretty fashion forward people. We had to ask her about what all this recent experience taught her about fashion.
Fashionista: Have you been to any shows yet this season?
Kelly Osbourne: I was at Charlotte Ronson last night and that was great. I just decided to do one show a day this week because it’s too much otherwise and I just want to have fun and enjoy it. So I’ve just picked the ones that I really, really, really wanted to see. Unfortunately some of them are all at the same time.
How has doing red carpet commentary changed the way you look at fashion or the way you dress?
Alexa Chung Likes to Be on the Worst Dressed List and Hates Hair Products
Before habitually late Lindsay Lohan arrived at the Cynthia Rowley Spring 2012 show, all the other celebrities in attendance were patiently sitting in their front row seats. As we scanned the crowd, we came across none other than Brit It Girl, Madewell designer, and glittery Miu Miu boot-wearing Alexa Chung. Since we missed her on the celeb-filled Fashion’s Night Out , we briefly interrupted her friendly convo with writer/man-about-town Derek Blasberg for a quick chat.
Fashionista: So what brings you to the Cynthia Rowley show?
Cynthia is a friend of mine and I’ve never been before. I was intrigued to see this collection and I just think she’s really funny and lovely and I’m here to support a friend.
Cynthia Rowley’s Glambulance has been going around town to fix any fashion emergencies and disasters during Fashion Week. What types have you ever experienced?
New Show Reviews and Galleries! Mara Hoffman, Billy Reid and NAHM
Check out Mara Hoffman‘s loud and colorful Mexican frocks (with amazing accessories to boot), Billy Ried‘s southern California ’70s collection (with a Southern twist of course) and NAHM‘s sophomore collection inspired by Belle du Jour over on our fashion week page!
Last Night’s Party: Nicola Formichetti Brands Party Goers With Panda Stamps at His Pop-Up Shop
It seemed all of lower Manhattan got their freaky dressing on last night to celebrate the opening of Nicola’s, Nicola Formichetti’s pop-up concept store with BOFFO Building Fashion. The black-leather-filled line that snaked up Walker Street held enough silver studs to decorate a Hun army, and I counted no fewer than six people with primary-colored hair all before even entering MI-5, the uber-cool bar next to the pop-up where Thierry Mugler parfums was throwing the celebration.
The outfits themselves weren’t the only unusual sight. Rarely do you encounter a store in the middle of Tribeca with an interior of fractured mirrors and a giant panda in the window. But that’s Formichetti for you; the Thierry Mugler designer and Gaga stylist is always mixing it up.
So how did it all come about?
“Boffo approached me and asked if I’d be interested in opening a store,” Formichetti told us. “And I was like, ‘Well, it’s not like I’m not busy.’
Nicki Minaj on How She Gets Dressed: ‘I Don’t Give a Damn’
Nicki Minaj was the front row star at Prabal Gurung today (more on that later–it was amazing) and she owned that front row in a way that only a megawatt star (or really, just Nicki Minaj) can. If you thought she couldn’t out-do that crazypants outfit she wore to the VMAs, think again.
At Gurung’s show she wore her hair big and curly and pink with a bleach blond fringe and a ginormous pink bow. As for the clothes? A half-pink-half-blue knotted in the front bikini-ish leotard top was paired with a tiered tulle ’80s miniskirt over crazy colorful collage-y tights. She topped of her look with a hot pink oversized pretzel around her neck.
So we had to ask her, what was she wearing and how on earth does she put it all together?
Snooki’s Going to Fashion Week! So are Kendall, Kylie and Brody Jenner and Teresa Giudice
We just received a press release confirming the attendance of one very important reality TV star at a show this week: the incomparable Nicole “Snooki” Polizzi. It was only a matter of time before the Jersey Shore star (and budding accessories designer) made her New York Fashion Week debut; we’re sure she’ll do it with the utmost style and class.
She’s attending the bebe BLACK Fashion Show on Monday, which is part of the STYLE360 semi-annual New York Fashion Week Showcase at the Metropolitan Pavilion. Also a part of that showcase: Abbey Dawn by Avril Lavigne. Surprised? Neither were we. Confirmed “celebrities” there include Kylie Jenner, who, as we previously reported, will walk the show; as well as Kendall Jenner, Brody Jenner and, inexplicably, The Real Housewives of New Jersey‘s Teresa Giudice. Maybe her daugher Gia is walking in the show, too?
How They’re Making It: Gen Art’s Spring 2012 ‘Fresh Faces in Fashion’
Eleven new designers will show their spring 2012 collections tonight thanks to the newly revived Gen Art, an institution that has helped propel labels like Vena Cava, Zac Posen and Phillip Lim into the spotlight. They had to take a little break due to financial woes, but now they’re back in full force with their annual “Fresh Faces in Fashion presented by smart car” program. Gen Art has selected the following lucky 11 women’s, men’s and accessory designers to showcase their stuff for editors and buyers in a fully staged runway show.
But, it’s not just luck–each of these designers are genuinely talented and, from what we’ve seen very promising. Many of them are already on the road to success–one’s being sold at Madewell–and have impressive pedigrees, like Central St. Martins degrees and a gig at Alexander McQueen. Also, three of them made it into our Fashionista 15.
We think they’re all ones to watch and we wanted to share their stories so, we interviewed each of them for mini versions of our How I’m Making It series. Click through to find out how these future stars have been and where they’re going.
The Fashionista 15: New York Labels To Watch
New York Fashion Week has officially begun and as we’ve learned, more designers are showing than ever before. New York seems to breed new talent at an alarming rate compared to other cities. And while that may irritate established designers and make our schedules that much more insane, we love nothing more than being surprised and blown away by a name we’d never heard before.
Still, it can be tough to filter out the real talent from the ones who will fade into the background. All it takes to show a collection is time and money, but to show one that makes us want to see more–that takes something special. So, for the second year in a row, we’ve handpicked 15 relatively under-the-radar designers showing this week who we think are worth paying attention to. Click through to learn about each one and why we think you’ll be seeing a lot more of them for seasons to come.
Fashionista’s New York Fashion Week Survival Guide
We’ve weathered many fashion weeks at Fashionista, from trudging through snow during AW10 to sunny showroom appointments for Resort 2012. In our travels, we Fashionista editors and contributors have learned exactly what we need in our satchels to keep us happy, pretty (or at least not too hideous looking), and on time. Want to see Read more →
Our Guide to the Ten Best Comfy (Yet Stylish) Shoes To Wear During Fashion Week
Fashion Week is here, and we know what you’re thinking: It’s time to stop by Duane Reade to pick up some extra-strength painkillers to survive my killer-but-actually-killer heels all week long.
Not so, sister, not so.
Blessedly, this year has ushered in an unprecedented level of support (get it?) for shoes that are actually, gasp!, comfortable. Even fashion industry insiders are ditching their sky-high stilettos and platforms for more practical options–Street style catnip Taylor Tomasi Hill even wore sneaker high-tops last season!
So forget hobbling around Lincoln Center–and put a spring in your step with these fashion-industry-approved alternatives to the high heel.
