Azzedine Alaïa showed his fall 2011 to a select group of editors earlier this week in Paris, nearly a week after Paris fashion week ended (because when you’re a master like Alaïa, you do as you please).
Alaïa prefers to work at his own pace and told WWD he thinks fashion’s increasingly breakneck pace is “inhumane.” The designer added that he thinks the intense pressure put upon designers to churn out collection after collections must have contributed to Galliano’s demise. “It’s sad. He’s a friend…It’s too much: too many collections; too much pressure.” he said.
WWD has released four looks from his fall collection, which are unsurprisingly, gorgeous knit wonders. Take a look.
This deep side part appeared on all the classy runways in Paris. And the best news? Unlike some other ridiculous trends we’ve seen, it actually looks good in real life! We asked Christopher Lospalluto, a celeb stylist at the Sally Hershberger Salon here in NYC, how to do it: 1) Prep your hair with a Read more →
Our favorite collections of Fall 2011, arranged in alphabetical order. Did your pick make the cut?
While the gossip in Paris this season was loud and distracting, the beauty looks were soft (for the most part). As befits French sensibility, there was effortless hair, dewy makeup, and lots of very wearable looks.
But that’s not to say it was boring. Color was used judiciously, and the usual suspects gave us challenging looks. And for the record, the braid and blue eye trends continued throughout the Paris shows.
Click through to see our favorite beauty looks from Paris Fall 2011.
The hair in Paris was big. Not 80s big, but sculptural and dramatic. Ann Demeulemeester and Junya Watanabe went tall and spiky. Haider Ackermann and Issey Miyake created haute aliens, while Yohji Yamamoto and Gaultier did beehives in rainbow and shades of grey.
Walk under doorways at your own risk.
Who doesn’t know Emmanuelle Alt? Even before her somewhat new role as Editor-in-Chief at Vogue Paris, she was making waves in the blogosphere as their Fashion Director. She’s typically spotted in a Kate Lanphear-esque ensemble–jeans or leather pants, a simple shirt and some kind of awesome blazer or coat. Ms. Alt has certainly nailed her street style pose too, but being shot as many times as she is, who wouldn’t develop a trademark stance?
Tweeters at Style.com said that they didn’t want to “add to the Dior rumor mill” yesterday when they revealed that “people in Paris are asking, why has the Lanvin team been in tears all day?”
But of course they did, and now everyone is wondering why Jason Wu was sitting front row at Lanvin. When asked by WWD, the young American designer simply said, “Mrs. Wang asked me.” Mrs. Wang is the owner of the Lanvin fashion house.
Whether or not this means anything is difficult to determine. So I’m going to put my common sense hat on for a moment. Common sense tells me that Riccardo Tisci is definitely, definitely the next Dior designer. Sources inside the house of Dior–sources whom I trust–have told me as much. But it’s all just rumors, right? Even Derek Blasberg‘s “confirmation” is still just a rumor. We won’t have a solid answer until LVMH releases an official statement.
“No customary suits of solemn black” for these designers, who apparently had Ophelia, from Shakespeare’s Hamlet, on their minds. Draped cloaks and updated bishop sleeves showed up at Thom Browne and Junya Watanabe, while Rick Owens showed us a beautiful hood and habit (habood?) hybrid.
Apparently a memo about snakeskin boots is being sent around the fashion community, with varieties of the style appearing at Prada, Dries Van Noten, and Missoni. I just want to know how to get on this email list….
Blake Lively was in Paris over the weekend for the much-touted Chanel dinner celebrating her Mademoiselle handbag campaign for the house. The first ad, which will start running this week, is above. If you didn’t know it was Blake, you almost wouldn’t know it was Blake, save for the small telltale birthmark next to her nose. Karl, who photographed her for the campaign, did a good job of making her look sleek and and sophisticated, and squelching a bit of that uber-happy California persona she has. It’s quite a lovely image, especially the reddish highlights in her hair which echo the red of the adorable Mademoiselle bag.
Forget about Hermes for a minute. LVMH just a bought a company whose family actually wanted to sell.
The French conglomerate has acquired a 51% stake in Bulgari SpA, whose founding family owned a majority of the firm’s shares up until yesterday. That stake translates to about $3.4 billion. While this gives the family less control over what happens at the company, they have gained two seats on the LVMH board of directors. What’s more, Bulgari’s CEO, Francesco Trapani, will take over management of LVMH‘s entire jewelry and watch division in the second half of 2011.
From the weekend emerged more crazy designer gossip.
According to Eric Wilson at the New York Times, Hannah MacGibbon is likely to be exiting Chloe after this season. The label, which is owned by Richemont, is said to have already interviewed candidates for the job. We hope this isn’t true, mostly because we really like MacGibbon‘s work.
But back to that other little situation. Sources inside the house of Dior tell Fashionista that the rumor within the company goes like this: Riccardo Tisci is most definitely in, and Carine Roitfeld will serve as the label’s stylist. Roitfeld was most recently linked to Hedi Slimane’s rumored takeover of YSL, although the Stefano Pilati-directed label’s expertly placed piece in the Times seems to have muffled those whispers.
One of our most astute commenters brought up the issue of John Galliano‘s team in the studio and the atelier at Dior and his namesake label. Will they all be let go? Will most of them be spared? And while we’re at it, will the John Galliano label continue at all?
We decided to ask some Paris fashion industry vets for insight.
“It has been deeply painful to see the Dior name associated with the disgraceful statements attributed to its designer, however brilliant he may be…. So now, more than ever, we must publicly re-commit to the values of the House of Dior.” –An excerpt from Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano’s speech at today’s runway show, regarding the house’s dismissal of John Galliano. Via WWD.
PARIS–For fall, Rochas‘ Marco Zanini presented a collection full of super luxe staples that looked tailor made for the closet of any Upper East Side old lady who lunches. There were perfect cashmere coats that hung just-so to reveal the collarbone, simple suiting and a-line skirts in gray-blue shantung paired with crew neck cashmere sweaters which were striped, printed, and raglan in deep plums and navy. A tight swirly floral print that you might find wallpapering your grandmother’s salon (if you had a grandmother who would have a salon) showed up on on pants, jackets, and cocktail dresses. But while Rochas’ lady is mature and refined, she’s also got a sense of humor, exhibited by her choice in millinery: funny little fur hats perched atop her head, or a crocheted bonnet.
Clearly the only thing anyone in Paris is talking about this week is John Galliano, and who will replace him at Dior.
The latest gossip goes something like this: Riccardo Tisci will indeed replace Galliano at Christian Dior, Haider Ackermann will slip into Tisci’s spot at Givenchy, and despite YSL’s vehement denial otherwise, Hedi Slimane is about to take over for Stefano Pilati. Oh, and yes, Carine Roitfeld is coming along for the ride. What’s more, if Ackermann is out of the running at Chanel, does that mean its Alber Elbaz’s when Karl purportedly retires in 2012?
Replacing the fired John Galliano at Dior is arguably the biggest decision Bernard Arnault will ever make. (Mostly because there was less riding on the position when he first hired Galliano in the Nineties.)
Since Galliano’s reign at the storied Paris fashion house was a time of major financial growth, Arnault needs to choose someone who can continue on that commercial path without compromising design. It’s a tough one, mostly because many of the designers proven capable of this are already stationed in plum creative director roles. Will Arnault look outside LVMH to replace Galliano, or will he make some swaps within the empire? We’ve crafted some educated guesses.
We’ve all heard that Lady Gaga might perform at tomorrow’s Mugler show, where her stylist Nicola Formichetti is creative director. But a reliable industry source tells us that she’ll definitely be walking the runway. “Unless she throws a diva fit, she’s walking,” says the source.
Update: Gaga confirms it, via Twitter.
Watch the show on Facebook at 3pm EST, 9pm Paris time. (We’ll also be tweeting from the audience.)