Fashion Week

Trendspotting

Trendspotting: That Crowning Feature

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Slideshows

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—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

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People Are Talking

The Fruits of Their Labor

fruit etc ss2010.jpgThese past few weeks we’ve seen a resurgence of all things juvenile. From pigtails at Prada to side braids at Wang, girlish hairstyles are a go for spring, but it doesn’t stop at the head.

Tao, Moschino, YSL and Ungaro embraced the youthful phenomenon in their Spring collections. Each designer topped their ready-to-wear with prints that would make any little girl giddy. Tao and YSL chose strawberries while Moschino opted for cherries (as did Anna Dello Russo on her feet all week). The playful prints are charming and romantic, stopping just short of saccharine, but the reviews weren’t, to put it mildly, nearly as positive at Ungaro.

Continue reading The Fruits of Their Labor

Trendspotting

Beauty Trendspotting: Dye Jobs

haircolorpowdertrendEDITED.jpgTalk about statement hair. From Dame Viv to Yohji Yamamoto, dyed and powdered hairstyles have definitely captured the attention of the front row and beyond this season.

The boys behind Proenza Schouler said that they were inspired by “surfing and skating” for their most recent collection. But this apparent Nineties grunge revival in fashion has influenced more than just clothes. At their S/S show, the purple and teal hair dye made the models look like Kurt Cobain-influenced mermaids. Natural elements surfaced in Europe as well. Vivienne Westwood’s fiery orange and red hair reinforced her always eco-concious message, while the bright, earthy green hair at Comme des Garçons was just another playful feature in a generally satirical collection. And at Yohji Yamamoto, the airy powder blue dye was the crowning feature for his minimalistic designs.

One question remains: will this wild hair trend have you rethinking the color of your coiffure come Spring?

Fashion Week

Collection Catch Up

fendi ss10 hamishsphere.jpgHaving trouble staying up to date on all the shows?

“Cavalli’s show owed a debt to Marc Jacobs’s notorious Grunge collection for Perry Ellis. But what a difference fifteen years makes in fashion! What was shockingly anarchic in 1993 now looks effortlessly chic. Here the spring Dust Bowl thirties chiffon dress and Liberty-print shirt are given a Cavalli rock-and-roll twist with the suede pants with cowboy cross-lacing.”

That’s Hamish Bowles’ quick summation of Roberto Cavalli’s SS10 collection shown in Milan last week. He’s done “Definitive Looks” for all the Milan shows over on Vogue.com which might be the best way to catch up on Italy before Paris starts.

But if you’re even further behind, or still looking for the few collections Style.com doesn’t cover, you can find Rad Hourani on New York Magazine and Jeremy Scott over on The Telegraph or a handful of Brits on Elle.

Because we know our runway pictures aren’t always as fun as our words.

Fashion Week

Kane’s Versus

chris kane unveils versus.jpgThe fashion world’s been waiting for ages to get a glimpse of Christopher Kane’s Versus collection for Versace.

Last season, the duo teased us with a peek at killer shoes and bags, as black and studded and sexy as expected. But this Sunday, he and the boss lady finally revealed the whole thing during a presentation in Milan.

In the video, he talks to The Guardian’s Jo Jones about the process, the importance of Donatella, and why he steers clear of too much color (to showcase his almost manic attention to detail). A few of the dresses actually bear a striking resemblance to Kane’s Topshop collection, with their lace panelling and detached sleeves and of course all of them sort of scream sex.

Red carpets should be flooded in no time.

Fashion Week

Peek at D&G SS10

Here’s a peek at the upcoming Dolce & Gabanna SS10 collection.

It comes courtesy of Swide magazine, which we’d never heard of, but after a bit of research have decided it’s actually Dolce & Gabanna’s own online publication. Each and every story is, after all, about the Italian design duo.

Anyway, from the video we learn there will be lots of white lace, lots of wide, black fishnet-like material and some ribbons. They’ll be debuting one each day until the collection shows in Milan this week. To whoever makes the next one, more upbeat music please!

Fashion Week

“She was wearing Philip Treacy’s hat with Vogue written on it when she came to see Anna, and when she came to see me the next day she had sprayed her hair red.” —Grace Coddington on Lady Gaga. Cue the speculation!
Fashion Week

Is the New: Erin Wasson & Justin Timberlake

erin wasson to the TENT.jpgWe weren’t sure why Erin Wasson, free, homeless-person loving, Alexander Wang-wearing rock ‘n’ roll hippie decided to show her AW10 line for RVCA at the commercial epicenter of New York Fashion Week, the Bryant Park tents.

Because though she’s a Maybelline face and Maybelline’s sponsoring the tents, all of her cool friends will be downtown at Milk Studios.

Now we’re hearing she’s not just showing in the tents, but in The Tent, the massive space in which Herve Leger stuffs their starlets, Zac Posen housed five pianos and Justin Timberlake played host to Carine, Anna and J.C. Chasez.

How, exactly, is Erin Wasson going to fill such a huge space? Why, exactly, does she want such a huge space? No idea, though now we know why they’re taking forever to come out with the damn Fashion Week Calendar — they’ll need a good hour cushion before and after the show if they expect everyone to head uptown.

Fashion Week

Week of the Dolls

mary kate and ashley to london.jpgOh no.

When designers and their commercially successful brands started heading back to London Fashion Week in honor of the British Fashion Council’s 25th Anniversary, our first concern was the probable influx of international editors — the stuffy kind who usually skip London because it’s way too fun and way too crazy.

But now Grazia’s given us a whole other reason to whine. They’re reporting a “planned mass showbiz exodus” to Topshop Unique’s front row. And the word “mass” isn’t being used lightly, rumored so far are Blake Lively, Taylor Momsen, Olivia Palermo, Anne Hathaway, the Olsens, Whitney Port, Kate Bosworth and Lourdes Ciccone.

Continue reading Week of the Dolls

Fashion Week

Marc! & Gaga! & V!

lady gaga and marc and v to fashion week.jpgWe took a moment to wonder what would happen if Lady Gaga did in fact descend upon New York Fashion Week.

What would she wear? Whose shows would she attend? Would the creative universe implode?

Probably not, though rumor has it she’s throwing a party with Marc Jacobs and V Magazine which is maybe the greatest thing to happen to the fashion industry in a very long time. As much as we’ll love to see what she rocks front row, we can’t even fathom what she’ll wear to the party of the week.

And since we’re still waiting on the official Fashion Week calendar, we’ll try to be content with brainstorming party themes and praying for the rain to stop.

Slideshows

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—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

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—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

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—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

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Slideshows

sao paulo fashion week bruna.jpg

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

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Fashion Week

Behind the Scenes: The BCBG Family

Reader Aaron sent us this documentary on the life of BCBG pre-Fashion Week.

The rough cut documentary gets up-close and personal with Lubov Azria, Max’s wife, as she heads to New York to prepare for three major fashion shows: BCBG, Max Azria and Herve Leger.

She discusses the importance of celebrities wearing their clothes and delves into the major differences between the three brands. It’s interesting to see, as an outsider, how six months of work culminates in ten minutes on a runway.

As for Max? His main point of discussion is his wife’s perfectionism. Between the two of them, it’s no wonder Herve’s revival’s been so wildly successful.

Parts II & III after the jump.

—CARSON GRIFFITH

Continue reading Behind the Scenes: The BCBG Family

Fashion Week

Tim Blanks & the Fashion Gauntlet

Getting to a fashion show, especially in Paris, is a little bit like running a gauntlet.

First, you have to find where you’re going, then you have to battle your way through the really good street style photographers who hang out on the perimeter of the venue to get the best shots, then you encounter a literal mob of Japanese photographers before dealing with the French security guards who couldn’t care less who/what/why you’re there.

Tim Blanks tackled the issue for
Style.com
- or at least attempted to. He caught Sarah Rutson, Anne Christensen and Natalie Massenet discussing the pros and cons of the street style phenomenon but didn’t manage to talk to a single street style photog.

The best part comes when he asks Anna Della Russo why it’s such a thing now and she says, “People want to see fashion on the real people.” Seriously?

Slideshows

Brit(t)'s Morning

richard   nicoll .jpgI spent an inappropriately long time hanging out with British designers at the Centre For Fashion Enterprise pop-up showroom at the Soho Grand this morning.

With coffee in hand, I caught up with Hannah Marshall, Richard Nicoll, Jean Pierre-Braganza and the team behind Aminaka Wilmont - also, I got up close and personal with Anna’s favorite Meadham Kirchoff dress.

Let’s start with Hannah, the name on everyone’s lips this season. The tightly edited collection - her fifth, actually - includes armored dresses, textured pants and snakeskin harnesses. “I’ve just made this catsuit for Beth Ditto and it’s confirmed she’ll wear it in her new album artwork! Actually, she called me and was like, Can I order eight of them? Or no maybe like twelve?”

Post-Hannah, I literally fell into Jean Pierre-Braganza’s furs. The Canadian/Brit designer’s been showing in Milan for the past couple seasons and for Fall 09 he went with a futuristic Native American battle theme.

“It’s the first time I’ve done furs,” he said. “Saga sponsored me and the furs were really important to my design vision. I don’t think I actually thought they’d really sell so well but they’re doing amazing with buyers.”

“Is that often the case?” I asked.

“Yes!” he laughed. “Honestly I’m always surprised by what sells best. It’s kind of fascinating.”

That trend continued throughout the morning. Marcus Wilmont of Aminaka Wilmont said the exact same thing.

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People Are Talking

The Blog Moves Up at Fashion Week

front row not bloggers.jpgThere was a mini-debate going on in the comments section of a Paris post.

One person decreed that blogs aren’t press and therefore shouldn’t sit in the press section of a show while another pointed out that we obviously aren’t buyers which together puts us in a rather awkward category. Blogs are, according to most publicists, considered press, and our seating assignment is usually a testament to that classification.

However, this season we noticed a new seating trend pop up. For the first time, those reporting for blogs and magazines’ online departments were often seated together which meant we had daily run-ins with reporters from Elle.com, Papermag.com, Glamour.com, Showstudio, DazedDigital, Fashionologie and more.

For example, at Marios Schwab, bloggers had their own Front Row section (alongside the Conde section, the ELLE section, etc), which created a real commune-style discussion of, “Well, I can’t report this for my site, but you totally should use what I heard earlier!” Fun, and certainly effective for spilling your thoughts onto Twitter in mere minutes.

Which makes us wonder, are the days of acting like bloggers aren’t real media members finally over? Because it looks like they are, at least in fashion. Especially now, when major editors from The Times are tweeting and Vogue editors like Filipa Fino are writing for Vogue Daily and WWD posts multiple times a day. We’re just saying, the line is getting awfully blurry.

People Are Talking

Lydia Hearst: Lost & Found

lydia hearst goes to cairo.jpgLast week, Lydia Hearst told me she’d be walking two shows this season: An unnamed exclusive in Madrid and of course, Pringle of Scotland in Milan as one of the brand’s new faces.

But you guys noticed that Lydia was MIA in Milan, even though Pixie, another new Pringle face, sat front row.

Apparently, it’s because she’s off to Cairo on a mission for Operation Smile with her sister and brother-in-law. The heiress and model is this year’s official ambassador for the charity, and we guess she got her date book a bit mixed up.

Anyway, as for us, we’re off to Paris! Tomorrow look for tweets on just how many LVMH-ers are in Gareth’s front row.