Hypothesis: Fall 09 is mostly a season of repeats.

Proof:

1. Balmainia.

2. The entire decade of the 80’s turning up… everywhere.

3. Marni loving Prada perhaps a bit too much.

4. Jean-Charles Castelbajac sending his models onto the runway from a giant mouth a la Viktor & Rolf Spring 08.

5. Jeremy Scott giving out his Longchamp bag to Beth Ditto and Kanye West to tote around at the Fall 09 shows like it’s really Spring 06.

And so on.

Conclusion: Discuss!

Update: We also have a shot of the shoes!

Curiously, amid knee-high boots, neon, cut-outs, and body-con dresses, some designers were thinking of present packaging for their Fall 09 designs.

Behnaz Sarafpour, Badgley Mischka, J Mendel and even Christopher Kane worked ribbons into a few of their looks - A touch that seems rather girly for a season that also saw three pairs of actual pants from Marchesa, no?

When the last look came out at the Narciso show on Raquel last Wednesday night, everyone kind of oohed and we wondered who would be the first lucky girl to rock his sequined ballerina look (because we knew this one practically came with a sign that would read,”Photograph me, you know you want to”).

And everyone was right - the dress has already had its first real world appearance, at the Oscars exactly four days after its runway debut, on actress Rachel Weisz.

But now the real question remains: Who’ll be the second to wear this dress, and land themselves on Who-Wore-It-Better’s across the country?

The New York Fall 09 runways saw a curious mishmash of trends - More “downtown” ideas like neon, cut-outs, and what could only be referred to as hooker boots, alongside more “uptown” looks like fur, cascading ribbons, and peplums.

Behnaz Sarafpour, Chris Benz and J Mendel all worked in that last one, which makes us wonder, was Pretty Woman on everybody’s inspiration board this summer?

New York Fashion Week may have been sparse with retro hair and makeup looks, but that didn’t stop designers from having some serious nail nostalgia.

Ruffian, Thakoon, ThreeAsfour and FORM all went retro for their runway manicures, taking inspiration from a look featured in a 1936 issue of Vogue. The original look consisted of a coral nail bed and bare moon, but nail artists for CND updated the old idea using blacks, whites and reds for a look that was both classically mod and slightly futuristic.

But more importantly, would you wear it?

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

[IMAGES FROM CND]

Of all the trends that popped up last week during New York Fashion Week (so much more on that later), the one that took us by surprise most was the use of fur by designers who’d never designed with animal skins in the past.

First, we saw it at Ohne Titel, then at Alexander Wang and Thakoon (whose shows were actually sponsored by Saga Furs), and then finally at Marchesa (left).

We’re not really sure what this means - has fur become more acceptable? Is it a backlash against “restrained” times? - but consider this: Fall 09 was the first time in ages that PETA didn’t protest at the Tents.

In fact, the PETA presence was much less this time around, which makes us wonder, has fur won the battle?

Last night’s Vivienne Westwood Red Label show was held in National Hall, a giant sports like venue complete with stadium seating.

Lily Cole sat front row while the likes of Daisy Lowe and Alice Dellal insisted on clomping their way down the concrete runway. Jourdan Dunn opened, for the second season in a row, and Jo Wood, ex-wife of Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood, closed.

The collection was inspired by school girls and their naughty head mistresses which meant loads of plaid and cleavage-inducing corsets worn with massive over-the-,knee boots made of chintz in golds and pinks, see Tanya D at left.

The clothes were classic, casual Vivienne with some pirate hats and bondage shoes thrown in for good measure. We’ll wait for Paris’ Gold Label show to really rave.

The first show of the second day of London Fashion Week was John Rocha.

After four tube transfers and a giant coffee, I squeezed my way into the BFC tent for the playful collection.

It started with a strong showing of black - textured black, matte black, shiny black - usually accented with exagerrated versions of those Marc Jacobs Fall 08 crown/headband pieces. Then he moved into orange party dresses and swingy sheer dresses (almost hooped skirts) with awesome puffy Minnie Mouse-like rhinestone collars and a selection of baby pink dresses, gold shifts and a few pieces of fur.

The models wore turquoise eyeshadow in the same style as the orange stripes at Vena Cava - a look we can’t wait to attempt come spring.

It was the absolute longest runway show I’ve ever been to - at least fifty looks - in the absolute hottest venue. By the time I bolted out to catch the Fashion Bus to Charles Anastase I’d literally stripped down to my slip.

Looks like the r-word hit the runways harder than we thought. I heard the term “DIY” batted around backstage so much it had me wondering if next season we might see models backstage with lash curlers and cans of Elnett in hand.

The smoky makeup at Chris Benz and Anna Sui along with the hair at Jason Wu, Rag & Bone, Wren and Miss Sixty were all fashioned to look as if the models had done it themselves. At the Twinkle by Wenlan show, MAC’s Gregory Arlt took the inspiration quite literally, letting some models curl their own lashes to get his “50’s girl on a first date” look.

Good news for those of us trying to recreate these straight-from-the-runway looks at home, not so great news for beauty pros if some designers actually decide to take their words at face value and let the models do their own thing. While I doubt the reality of that particular scenario, you never really can be sure. Stranger things have happened at the tents.

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

To understand just how cool Jen Kao’s Fall 09 collection - only her third - is, you must first simply look at it: Ooh, this looks cool. But then it must be studied: Wow, amazing.

She explained to us this afternoon that she was inspired by the triangle and its place as, in her opinion, the strongest of the geometric shapes. If that sounds insane to you, consider the visual translation: Suede and denim triangular-paneled dresses, clingy tops made of jersey that somehow looks much stronger than a fabric best known for its easy draping, leather tops perforated with tiny triangles that look more like mesh but feel like a thick spider web, and triangular, metal sequins that lend the appearance of armor but with the quiet glitz of something you’d actually wear.

The collection, which was incredibly small for something that could suffice for a wardrobe - dresses, pants, shorts, leggings, hoodies, tops, they were all there - was complemented by jewelry from Eddie Borgo, who’s previously worked with Marchesa and Phillip Lim. Cosmically, Eddie was feeling the triangle for Fall 09, too, and his minimal yet high-impact designs around the girls’ necks and wrists really brought the idea full circle. Each girl looked kind of tough and strong, but not in an over-the-top neo-punk way, just enough so that you got the idea without any overkill.

Jen Kao is definitely someone to watch - and that’s the best possible final note for New York Fashion Week.

On our last day of Fashion Week, it was a nice change to only have to walk a couple blocks from our office to the Iisli presentation at their store on Bond st.

After walking into the store, which kind of looks like a a big white box floating within a storefront, we spotted mannequins dressed in the most comfy looking duds. Barely after glimpsing the first scarf atop sweater atop blouse we’re told that this season, Iisli is all about layering. Each mannequin is indeed swathed in the softest looking knits, with chiffon and silk popping up here and there. Our favorite parts were the small details in unexpected places - a leather collar on a feminine chiffon blouse, knit fringing along a hem, and corset bones knit into a sweater.

We were then directed towards a look that Isli calls her “modern suit” which consists of knit leggings, loose blouse and a cozy sweater jacket - if this is what modernity looks like then we’re loving the times. A lot of Isli’s looks were made up of clothes so comfy you could sleep in them - notching groundbreaking, but surely lovable.

—HAYLEY PHELAN

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Toni Hacker and Ben Harnett held their Fall 09 presentation in Room 219 of the Chelsea Hotel last night, and we’re pretty sure nobody wanted to leave.

It actually felt like a party - The clothes, shoes, bags, bracelets and belts were strewn about the four-room suite, sometimes in drawers, sometimes on the models (who posed with Milk Duds, Whoppers and whatever else), sometimes hanging off lampshades, pretty much everywhere.

The layout was like a treasure hunt, and it perfectly underscored how precious every piece of Hayden-Harnett feels. Plus, with the models stuffing their faces (one finally had to snatch a bag of cheese poofs away from another before she made herself sick) the whole mood felt funny enough so that you actually talked to other people you didn’t know - a Fashion Week oddity for sure.

The collection itself was so covetable we’re already tearing pages out of the look book. The best pieces were easily identified: The little box clutch (at left), and the spat-boot-heels (whatever you call these) with Victorian style buttons down the front. Toni wanted the presentation to give you the impression that the models were just a bunch of girls that live in the room, and never leave (hence the Rapunzel braids) except to sometimes go out and buy candy. And it worked - by the end, you pretty much only wanted to deck yourself out in a leather necklace and kimono-style dress, eat Twizzlers and never leave. In fact, Hayden-Harnett almost made us late to Zac Posen, and we think that pretty much sums up how it went.

Kai Kuhne showed at the Eyebeam last night, our favorite Fashion Week venue, and he did not disappoint.

Though the show was a bit serious - and the Golden Girls-style wigs the models wore too funny when you thought about it - the actual clothes were so technical that most people’s heads moved with the models.

Kai Kuhne has showcased his talent for tailoring every season since his break with Asfour (now called ThreeAsfour) in 2005, but Fall 09 was about structure to the extreme - Even loose-fitted pants had enough strategically placed seams and gathers to make them fall just so, and the majority of the dresses had so many cuts and folds you’d have thought they could stand up all on their own.

Of course, the one problem is that the incredibly elegant, super long, super lean silhouette works almost only on models, so whether we ever see these clothes outside of the Eyebeam remains to be seen.

We almost didn’t get into Zac Posen tonight. Not because we weren’t invited, but because, apparently, Zac Posen has the tightest security ever. You couldn’t even get to the front doors of the Tents without your actual paper invite in hand (which hardly anyone carries around all day), so we, and many other people, ended up at the top of the stairs arguing with a quartet of security guards, trying to explain that if we really were crashers, then we could never get in once inside the lobby anyway (this argument did not work at all).

Instead, we frantically searched our iPhone for the RSVP confirmation, watched actual crashers give up immediately once security asked for the invite, watched actual editors get hassled and freak out, tried calling several people who we thought could be in the Tents and possibly help, before the nicest of the guards secretly let us in on the side. Phew.

When we got to the check-in table, we had to actually produce a photo ID. While fishing through our wallet that won’t even close these days (cab receipts), we had to ask: What’s with the security tonight?” One of the PR girls responded that this show gets exceptionally crashed, with people rushing the doors, bringing last season’s invites, sometimes making invites, and, even worse, using other people’s names. So, understandable. Still, it would be nice if one of those nice girls from inside could have stood on the steps to let in the people that they at least recognize.

Alas, the show goes on: Zac’s Fall 09 opened with the piano-playing sibling quintet, the 5 Browns, and with clothes so sumptuous you’d have thought you were in Rococo times (or, at least, sometime before September). Every single look was totally over the top, especially the coats fit for majesties (or, Andre Leon Talley).

The most annoying part had to be when we looked over at the front row (Rachel Bilson, Claire Danes, Sandra Bernhard), because we finally understood why Zac had more security than a fur convention. But the best part, other than Alek Wek’s surprise spin on the runway, had to be Coco’s: As she made her way to the pit, someone yelled out, “Now there’s a woman!” She cracked a smile and a laugh, and so did everyone else.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST

Beauty inspiration backstage can run the gamut from “English Rose” to “Post-Apocalyptic Bladerunner Chic.” But this season, it looks like the name of the game is mostly just rock ‘n roll.

Rock as an inspiration is nothing new - it pops up every season. But this time around things feel a bit different. Those that don’t take the “clean, fresh and simple” route are edging farther and farther into grungy, hard rock territory. Usually, Fall brings lots of retro-glam or Victorian-era looks to the runways, but the general feel from backstage is that this season is a lot harder and rawer than those past.

Hence the rock stars. There was boyish and British Quadrophenia hair at Preen, “Mick Jagger’s poet rock girlfriend” at 3.1 Phillip Lim, a gorgeous purple smoky eye at Miss Sixty, and the very fitting “street rock n’ roll” greasy hair and smoky cat eyes at Yigal Azrouël.

There was even a “walk of shame” theme at Carlos Campos, with models sporting pallid skin and a creamy, dark eye smudged off on the outer corners, as if someone had hurriedly tried to make the vampy eye look respectable for the light of day and the long walk home (been there, done that).

My favorites were the badass black and white eyes created by MAC’s James Kaliardos at Preen, and the ribbon-bedecked, “Seventeenth Century Rock Star” braids whipped together by Redken’s David Cruz at Abaete.

I for one am glad to see the Retro and Romantic Goth trends (with a few notable exceptions) phasing out. You can only see so many pin curls and “brooding” dark lips before you just want to hit the makeup artist over the head with your notepad.

Raw and deconstructed is so much more interesting than perfectly polished. Just don’t take it to Little J levels of raccoon grunge.

—MEGAN MCINTYRE

Catherine Malandrino’s 11am show this morning was surprisingly well-attended considering it was on the “am” side of the week’s Day Seven: Garance Dore, Scott Schuman, Michelle Trachtenberg, Linda Fargo, Mary J Blige and Coco Rocha - exhausted and flubbing her lines for E! Canada - all sat front row, sixty-five floors up in the Rainbow Room.

The collection was what you’d expect: One pretty dress after another, with a few separates, and more examples of the season’s neon trend in the form of a few bright fuschia gowns.

But the real story was the show itself: The Rainbow Room, up until recently, was one of the most expensive restaurants in the city. In fact, it was so expensive that the recession has hit them especially hard, and they haven’t served food in a while, and won’t until TBD. But for Catherine Malandrino’s show, there was a huge breakfast spread with juice bar for all of her guests to enjoy, and the models walked on a circular runway that literally twirled. The setting was a little odd for this Fashion Week, but the thing is, Catherine knew it.

The music began with a croaky version of “Somewhere Over the Rainbow,” then another song all about dreaming, and the soundtrack ended with an ironic version of “New York, New York.” Even the unrealistic hair - pulled into bubbles atop the crowns of the girls’ heads with hairnets - seemed to say, “I know, I know, but this is who I am!”

So basically, nothing’s keeping Catherine Malandrino from business as usual, as long as she gets to wink from the back. And right now, we can appreciate that.

—PHOTOGRAPHY BY JEREMY KOST