Spring 2010 London

Trendspotting

Beauty Trendspotting: Dye Jobs

haircolorpowdertrendEDITED.jpgTalk about statement hair. From Dame Viv to Yohji Yamamoto, dyed and powdered hairstyles have definitely captured the attention of the front row and beyond this season.

The boys behind Proenza Schouler said that they were inspired by “surfing and skating” for their most recent collection. But this apparent Nineties grunge revival in fashion has influenced more than just clothes. At their S/S show, the purple and teal hair dye made the models look like Kurt Cobain-influenced mermaids. Natural elements surfaced in Europe as well. Vivienne Westwood’s fiery orange and red hair reinforced her always eco-concious message, while the bright, earthy green hair at Comme des Garçons was just another playful feature in a generally satirical collection. And at Yohji Yamamoto, the airy powder blue dye was the crowning feature for his minimalistic designs.

One question remains: will this wild hair trend have you rethinking the color of your coiffure come Spring?

Slideshows

Bam Bam

JEREMY SCOTT SS10 .jpgSomeone tweeted that they skipped yesterday’s Jeremy Scott show because they weren’t sure they could handle him so early in the morning.

You don’t really know what you’ll get with Scott, though bright colors and something giggle-worthy’s guaranteed, but this time he wasn’t just inspired by a particular pop culture icon, he actually sent the Flintstone family down his runway.

Pixie Geldof stood in for Wilma, Chanel was the perfect Bam Bam and Cole Mohr, well his barely there Speedo wasn’t exactly Fred-like, but he was still head of the house in his “Your Cave or Mine?” shirt.

Even more disturbing than the dude in a hot pink one-strapped Borat-like bathing suit was the amount of weight Daisy Lowe appears to have lost. Between her and Lara Stone’s new approach, we’re already lamenting the loss of a single curve on next season’s runways.

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Slideshows

Saatchi Gets Pringled

PRINGLE SS10 .jpgPringle threw their return to London party at the Saatchi gallery on Monday night.

They didn’t just present their Spring/Summer 2010 collection, but also debuted a short film by Ryan McGinley and starring Tilda Swinton. It featured the mythical looking actress running across the Scottish Highlands, climbing castle walls, sneaking through tunnels and eventually disappearing into the ocean - all while wearing a long, flowing gown.

We stood in a white room while it projected onto two opposite walls and since everyone was facing different directions it was perfectly acceptable to alternate watching the gorgeous film with catching Tilda and Ryan hug or staring at Cecilia Dean’s shoes or checking out the details on Mark Ronson’s suit.

When the show did start, in yet another super long white room, the clothes were easy - in a good way. Clare Waight Keller showed chunky knits over slinky t-shirt dresses, crocheted dresses layered over slips, sheer tops with trenches, slouchy pants and crinkled metallic shorts.

They’ve come a long way from inventing the twinset.

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Slideshows

When Anna Met Alexa

2812 ss10 .jpgThe second biggest talking point of London Fashion Week, post-Fast, appears to be this picture of Anna Wintour and Alexa Chung front row at Twenty8Twelve.

I was sitting there, staring at the back of Anna’s head and wondering how her hair stays so strangely perfect, when Alexa and Pixie Geldof walked in. Anna kept her head down and sunglasses on as the PR tried to sit the it-girl duo next to her. Alexa pushed Pixie, Pixie pushed Alexa, someone even pointed at Anna until finally Alexa got stuck sitting next to her and Pixie moved closer to a red-headed Peaches.

I would have loved to see what happened if Anna had to sit next to a platinum, dirty-haired, ripped tights-wearing Geldof, but she graciously looked up at Alexa, shook her hand and laughed.

So I think that face she’s making has more to do with the clothes than Alexa (after all she is this month’s Vogue it-girl), because while I loved all the denim and corsets and rompers and boyfriend shirts (and Alice Dellal’s full head of hair), the collection didn’t exactly scream Vogue.

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Spring 2010 London

Christopher Kane’s Master Class

chris kane ss10.jpg(Ed. Note: Excuse us while we rewind a bit. We were anxious to get Burberry up as soon as possible, but we’ve still got a few pre-extravaganza things to discuss.)

There’s something about Christopher Kane where at first, you’re flummoxed by the collection, but then comes the slow burn. In time, you learn to understand and then grudgingly like it. Eventually, you don’t just love his pieces, but covet them ardently. We’ve been doing this dance with Kane for a few years now, so this time around we just went straight for the covet.

We were besotted from look one.

Kane reeled us in through simple nostalgia with the delicate pale pink gingham and beaded details. We’d bet every girl in the room (including Anna Wintour, Donatella Versace, Natalia Vodianova and randomly, Joan Collins,) returned to their five year old self, begging their mother for a pretty pink gingham picnic dress. Kane perfectly captured that sentimentality. Then he hit fast forward to adolescence, where girly-ness gave way to womanhood and a boned bust took root inside the gingham.

Continue reading Christopher Kane’s Master Class

Slideshows

Things That Happened at House of Holland

HENRY SS10.jpg1. There was an abundance of burly straight American men. They weren’t lost; they’re Bravo’s cameramen and they’ve attached themselves to Kelly Cutrone’s hip.

2. A remix of the Married With Children theme song played throughout the show.

3. A bunch of models wore lace, all lace, and nothing but lace. Then a bride came out.

4. A denim went bondage look with straps and buckles.

5. A woman asked me, at the end, while Henry was on the runway, what the name of this designer was and I was terribly rude.

6. Agyness Deyn didn’t walk, for the first time ever? She and her shaggy black hair sat front row with Alexa Chung, Leigh Lezark and more British celebrities with whom I’m not familiar.

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Slideshows

Got My Goot On

GOOT SS10 .jpgJosh Goot’s show was in a parking lot.

I Google mapped it and ended up in the totally wrong part of London, called the PR in a panic, hopped in a cab, ran down an alley, up three flights of stairs and onto the runway with seconds to spare. Thank god it was worth all that.

Last season I was obsessed with Goot’s two-tone shoes and this season it was the multi-colored pants everyone was going on about; those, and his brightly colored dresses. The Australian in him took inspiration from the beach and surf culture and scuba diving (to a very different effect than Proenza), which made for a super fun collection (which was kind of depressing to watch on the second to last day of summer.)

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Slideshows

Marios in Threes

MARIOS SS10 .jpgI’ve been playing with the Marios Schwab invitation all week.

It’s one of those slashed flip books with three sections that makes the head of an armadillo match up with the body of a scary giant rat-like creature and the tail of a fish - unless of course you leave the animals whole. But I never stopped to consider its meaning in regard to the Spring 2010 collection, probably because I’m tired, but also because most of this season’s invites didn’t really mean anything.

Anyway, like the invite, Marios dissected the body into three sections and played with different proportions in sets of three. Everything he showed fit looser than his usual body-con dresses; there were poufy pantsuits and beautifully cinched skirts, sharply collared blouses with sheer hips and pleated crop tops paired with loosely draped pants.

Thank goodness it was so pretty to watch or else everyone would’ve tried to listen to Sarah Mower and Anna Wintour’s in depth conversation instead of looking at the clothes.

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Spring 2010 London

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Slideshows

Issa Gives Me Naomi

ISSA SS10 1 .jpgWhen I worked in store a few years ago, Naomi Campbell came in one day.

After helping her with a Temperley dress and some tanks tops, she hugged me - despite her penchant for temper tantrums and cell phone throwing, she was one of the nicest famous people I ever worked with.

The hug was nice, but nothing compares to watching a supermodel walk a runway. And though Naomi’s walked a show every time I’ve been in London for Fashion Week, I’ve always managed to miss it. So when she opened the Issa show the other night I positively squealed with delight. And when Coco and Chanel and Eniko came out after, I couldn’t help but imagine how thrilling it must be for them to share the runway with such an icon and hear the crowd cheer throughout.

And, though it’s probably due to a serious lack of sleep, I’ll admit, I welled up a bit.

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Slideshows

Richard Nicoll Rocks My World

R NICOLL SS10 .jpgI basically just love Richard Nicoll.

His spring collection, was one of the most beautiful I’ve seen this week. He was inspired by Tahiti - or that grand vacation we all wish we were on, but aren’t - and managed to make tropical prints look pretty and stacked straw pop-pom hats look elegant. There were fringed scarves and silky draped tanks with button details tucked into perfectly fitted pants and everything looked comfortable.

Plus, it was all wearable which isn’t London’s specialty (which is why it’s so much fun though). Even the silver bow crop tops that’ll work for editorial could translate into an actual - albeit very cool actual - wardrobe. Throughout the show, he showed brilliant fringed skirts and dresses layered with grosgrain, military looking ribbons.

I dare a DIY.

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Spring 2010 London

JEREMY SCOTT AFTERPARTY.jpg

Quote of the Day

“Even though they’re only just starting to get attention, the days of the mini-blogger are numbered. Once you get over the novelty, there’s actually nothing all that interesting in the innermost thoughts of a kid who’s discovering fashion for the first time. The qualified opinion of a life-long expert is more relevant…Internet 3.0 should be quality content by relevant commentators! So enjoy it while you can, amazing/terrifying mini- bloggers; the real world is on its way!” —Isaac Locke talks child bloggers in today’s LFW Daily.
Spring 2010 London

MISS LARA STONE? WE DO. SO HIP HIP HOORAY SHE’LL WALK JAEGER TODAY!
People Are Talking

Still Going: Fat & Fast

mark fasts controversy.jpgWe’re basically over the size zero debate - models will always be skinny. But absolutely no one’s over Mark Fast’s runway statement from last Friday.

Why? Because it wasn’t just the audience made uncomfortable by the big girls, but also the team behind the show. One staff member quit over Fast’s use of plus size models and another, the show’s stylist, was so rude to the girls that they were forced to fire her.

So instead, stylist Daniela Agnelli, who usually works for The Telegraph, stepped in to save the day, and though there’ve been complaints about the nude thongs cutting into the girls’ skin and ruining the lines of the clothes, overall, it was a success.

We love fashion, and thus it follows we love a scandal, but we can’t help but be disgusted over this whole thing. For two people from a small team to be too embarrassed to have their name attached to a few gorgeous plus sized models is awful.

If there’s anything to bitch about it’s that Fast only used three plus size girls and not more.

—A LONDON FASHIONISTA

Slideshows

Ashish Goes On Holiday

ASHISH SS10 .jpgAshish’s show program said it better than I ever could:

“Never one for subtlety, our heroine is dressed to kill (literally) with a wardrobe that reads like the greatest hits of a holiday brochure. She has a dress to match every cocktail shaken in the Panorama Bar [of the HMS Queen Camilla), and after one daquiri too many, you may well find her draped across the grand piano, resplendent in a hibiscus flowered sequined wrap.

“Her taste reflects her destinations, like a Satnov in sequins she wears a map of Italy with more finesse than a Berlusconi babe and in Paris she glitters, like a living Tour Eiffel, or her halter ego the Mona Lisa, but with added lip gloss…

“On shore there’s scant difference, shredded t-shirts pay homage to her heroine Bo Derek, and as an ardent Facebook devotee, she’ll frequently post images to her envious friends back home in sequined souvenir t-shirts - not that she even cares if she sees them again.”

And there you have it.

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Spring 2010 London

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Spring 2010 London

Matthew Blows It

matthew williamson ss10.jpgYou know a show’s bad when you can’t wait for it to be over, especially when it’s only seven minutes long.

Unfortunately, that’s the way Matthew Williamson went yesterday. It wasn’t all his fault though. The ridiculous heat - sweat poured off front row faces including Olivia Palermo, Cecilia Dean, Twiggy, Yasmin LeBon, Leigh Lezark, Aliona Doletskaya, Michael Roberts and Jodie Harsh - was hard to stomach. Kind of like Williamson’s attempts at tailoring.

So far, he’s built a pretty solid business over the past few years with his haute gypsy, running off to Ibiza look. It includes lots of long flowy dresses, mirrors, colour and hippie dippy frocks often without shape and still eye-poppingly expensive.

His marketing’s genius, Sienna Miller, Gwyneth Paltrow, Plum Sykes, Jade Jagger et al, are his best friends, campaign stars and constant photo companions so he was, essentially selling a dream lifestyle, rather than clothes, which is quite easy to buy into.

But this year, Mr. Williamson decided to tailor which was, we agree, long overdue. And yet it didn’t work. You can’t just add a structured waist and a cupola sleeve without changing everything else that needed changing, i.e. Ibiza happy prints and weird houndstooth which is what came down the runway.

In fact, the final piece, a silk maxi dress, had beauty pageant written all over it, which is probably the worse thing you could say about a collection.

—A LONDON FASHIONISTA

Slideshows

Jenny Packham Loves Glitter

JENNY PACKHAM SS10 .jpgThe thing I loved most about the Jenny Packham show is that they were considerate enough to hold it close to Somerset House.

I know New York fashion week’s spread out, but nothing compares to the nightmare of navigating London Fashion Week (unless you get on the Fashion Bus, though that requires you to at least drive through every show) over cobblestones and taxi stands.

Anyway, once I walked through Covent Garden and into the venue, I welcomed the sight of familiar faces, both PRs and Tinsley Mortimer. The man in front of me heard me say my name and turned around to say he loved Fashionista, but…”You can’t read my handwriting?” I guessed.

“Well, yeah,” he said.

“Sorry about that,” I answered, and then the show started and it was sparkly. As if the diamonds on the dresses and the shoes and the everything weren’t enough, the girls were wrapped in Tiffany blue bows and dripping in jewelry.

That hair though, was fantastic.

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Slideshows

Osman Yousefzada

OSMAN SS10 .jpgYesterday’s Osman collection was all white, like Eun Jeong’s the day before and unlike everything else we’ve seen at London Fashion Week.

Apparently, he’d always wanted to make one like it, but never had the resources since such a simple palette requires the absolute best fabrics etc.

Word is Osman’s collection sells out quite quickly (faster than McQueen even on some London shop floors), but this collection didn’t exactly explain why. Though the front row was packed with major British buyers, the clothes weren’t exactly flattering. And though Sessilee Lopez ruled the runway, even she looked slightly uncomfortable in her all white get-up.

Though navy blue’s about as colorful as I get, this really could’ve used something extra (and not just the gold accent squares).

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