There was a time years back when many thought leggings were going to be a one season wonder. Well, that moment has come and gone and even most naysayers long ago embraced them. We’re actually really liking these dancer-like incarnations of mostly sheer, sometimes short, and always scrunched for Spring/Summer 2010—especially the sheer pinks and neutrals for a bit of light layering.
What about you? Are you game for another season or totally over them by now?
Tired of doodling on paper or the soles of your Converse? How about your arm? Your thigh? Your chest?
Rodarte kicked off the body art trend in New York, covering their models with Sharpied tribal shapes to complement their primitive, deconstructed collection. James Kaliardos pulled from a variety of inspirations to come up with the black curvilinear designs that ended up the perfect armor for Rodarte’s futuristic warrior girls.
Talk about statement hair. From Dame Viv to Yohji Yamamoto, dyed and powdered hairstyles have definitely captured the attention of the front row and beyond this season.
The boys behind Proenza Schouler said that they were inspired by “surfing and skating” for their most recent collection. But this apparent Nineties grunge revival in fashion has influenced more than just clothes. At their S/S show, the purple and teal hair dye made the models look like Kurt Cobain-influenced mermaids. Natural elements surfaced in Europe as well. Vivienne Westwood’s fiery orange and red hair reinforced her always eco-concious message, while the bright, earthy green hair at Comme des Garçons was just another playful feature in a generally satirical collection. And at Yohji Yamamoto, the airy powder blue dye was the crowning feature for his minimalistic designs.
One question remains: will this wild hair trend have you rethinking the color of your coiffure come Spring?
At the Balmain show this morning in Paris, Twitter was again on fire. From Derek “@dizzyblazeberg” Blasberg’s: “‘This is some hooker military shit,’ the stylist next to me observed” and “It’s a slutty sexy tent city over here” to @TheMoment’s “Savage Balmain! Think G.I. Jane meets Cher! Super sexy- again.”
And then we came to Joe Zee’s TwitPic of the sequined jeans. We’ve seen lots of sequins already this season, but I can only recall one other, Ralph Lauren, that involved a pair of jeans. I believe I stand alone at the office in liking this particular Ralph look (and the entire collection for that matter.) But I cannot be swayed. The sequins on those jeans are cool.
Now the Balmain version is of course much flashier, and will indeed cost a phenomenal amount more money. But these are definitely going to be all over the Beyoncés and Rihannas of the world. Riri even watched them go by in person from the front row.
And granted there could be some ugly trickle down versions that happen that happen as a result of this trend. But I’m on board so far. What about you?
I’m sure it was for something important, but now I can’t remember why and this video makes me wish I was there in what was clearly the manliest room (barber shop?) of all of New York Fashion Week.
Even the clothes are nice, though we aren’t digging suit shorts on men who don’t share Thom Browne’s proportions. Anyway, Chad White opens, New York Magazine’s Amy Odell has a cameo and everyone has great hair.
So far my two favorite runway hairstyles take their inspiration from little girls, as far as I can tell. And I mean that in a good way.
Braids and pigtails remind me fondly of my carefree days playing tag and tetherball, and doing penny drops off the monkey bars—with shorts underneath my skirt, of course. (None of us could let the boys peek. And now of course we’re giving up pants altogether. But that’s a whole other matter.)
From the much-beloved Alexander Wang braid to the pigtails yesterday at Prada, elementary school hair is making a comeback. And I like it. A lot.
This isn’t the properly combed look that your mother painstakingly did for every morning. The styles are a little more f***ed up, with teasing, flyaways, and that perfect version of messiness that editorial stylists are so genius at. And of course, a power glossy bright lip wasn’t really in the mix on the playground.
Each day of NYFW presented more and more examples of belly baring for S/S 2010. From Alex Wang and Brian Reyes to Yigal and Charlotte Ronson, and about a dozen other in between, skinny model tummies were everywhere. And this got me quaking in my booties, no doubt.
First, my midsection is not my favorite area of my body on the best of days. But more importantly, I’m not sure that someone like myself, nearing (gasp!) 34 years of age needs to be baring anything even close to my belly, unless I’m in a beach/pool type setting.
Unless, that is, I suddenly become Gwen Stefani overnight.
Sure, they look cool on the models. What doesn’t? But I don’t think I’ve worn a half shirt since the 80s and I’m thinking I never need to again. I’ll leave it to the rock stars and the supermodels.
Ed. note: We’re backpedaling for a moment, to the last night of New York, before heading back to London.
When I said things couldn’t get better than my night with Narciso, I meant it.
But I was wrong. Last night, Linda Fargo and Andre Leon Talley (in a black eyelet robe) hosted a repeat performance of Phillip Lim’s SS10 collection for American Express card holders.
Prior to the presentation, I was escorted backstage to interview Phillip, slightly better than sneaking past security guards, and snooped around backstage area checking out the sky-high Louboutins and gorgeous clothes up very very close. (And no, I didn’t walk away with the sequin pants I had my eye on. I may be sneaky, but not sneaky enough to swipe the clothes right off the models backs just yet.)
Inspired by Picasso’s collages, Phillip wanted to create a collection that collaged the life of the modern woman. From his opening look, a red “New Suit” made of a techno-poly that can be machine washed but still feels and looks luxe to his closing “cubist” dresses that offer a different view from every angle, he wanted a collection that any woman could see herself in.
AmEx and Bergdorf Goodman hoped that the event would educate consumers about New York Fashion Week and inspire them to hit the stores. And based on the post-show conversation and excitement, it definitely worked. I don’t think I’m the only one headed to BG tomorrow.
The thing about Mark Fast’s dresses is they’re so tight, body-con doesn’t even cut it.
His brilliant knits cling to the body, which make you think, “I absolutely love it, but there’s no way I could appropriately wear that.” Except of course until you see them on a handful of plus-size models and they look even better than they did on the sticks that wore them last season.
For SS10 they come both long and short, they come layered with bejeweled body jewelry and and leather petal skirts in nude and black and cotton candy pink and blue; they come in fisherman knit and with perfectly executed slashes or round silver studs and no matter what size you are, they’ll look amazing, which is probably why the crowd cheered louder than I’ve heard in a very long time
After Isaac Mizrahi’s show, the designer ran around his Bryant Park set smiling, waving and blowing kisses and even Anna Wintour broke out into a toothy grin (seriously!).
There really couldn’t have been a better note on which to end New York Fashion Week than his theatrical production complete with studio lights and rain.
His models - Karlie, Iris, Tao, Eniko, Natasha - wore candy colored confections in tulle, fringed sequins and sheer swiss dot. They climbed stairs, walked under water and smiled wide in their classically tailored clothes paired with wooden briefcases and sun hats. There were Oscar gowns and rompers, suits, youthful cocktail dresses and glorious shoes. Maybe we were just exhausted, but it felt almost magical.
Alison Lewis was the last of New York Fashion Week’s hip alternative presentations.
She showed at 5 Ninth, the pretty, brick walled bar conveniently located near Milk Studios.
Prop stylist Kenyan (who pops up on The Selby more often than not) decorated the space with amazing carnival props including a carved wooden carousel, old costumes, signs and even an old clown trunk while a self-produced film projected onto the back wall.
It was a soft and fun setting for the natural looking, girl next door models showing off Lewis’ brightly colored prints - including an original floral. Her vintage inspired collection was both realistic and wearable. It didn’t veer too far to the retro, incorporating cutouts (an SS10 pre-requisite?) and paired with cute navy or white Keds.
Sarah Sophie Flicker popped in to say hello and we’re pretty sure we’ll see her wandering the village in this come May.
Yesterday afternoon MAC’s John Demsey and Milk’s Mazdack Rassi hosted a panel discussion for Parsons and FIT students in the studio that was the site of so many shows this past week.
First, let us just say kudos to the two. MAC & Milk was a huge success in my opinion. It was such a more serene atmosphere than the agita-inducing tents. The staff was incredibly helpful. PR people told us it was drama-free and easy to stage their shows and presentations. There were no nightmarish elevator or temperature situations (two of our big concerns). My only real complaint was the patchy internet service I sometimes got inside on the second floor. A girl’s gotta Tweet!! But all in all, it was a job very, very well done. Let’s do it again in February!
Back to yesterday’s interesting panel, moderated by the hilarious Suzy Menkes and including Rassi, Jack & Lazaro, Humberto Leon and Caral Lim from Opening Ceremony, Parsons Dean of Fashion Simon Collins, and Alexander Wang.
The Phi show was just down the block from Milk studios, but it couldn’t have been more obscure.
We entered through a random door, stood in a cold cement hallway, shuffled into a freight elevator and walked into a narrow L with a mini-pit and just three rows - three power rows though. LSD, Carine, Sarah Lerfel, Kate Lanphear, Erin Wasson, Trainas and Sarah Rutson all sat front row to soak up the power bondage collection.
Designer Andreas Melbostad was inspired by levers and pulleys, wearable technology if you will, that resulted in strapped and buckled corsets over sheer tees and dresses with sharply tailored blazers and pants. As in any bondage-like collection, it’s hard not to stare at the shoes, but Melbostad‘s laced up, cut out dresses certainly helped.
Every single piece was so beautifully built that we walked away lamenting what it’d look like when Zara tried to rip it off.
One thing I never anticipated going into the Spring/Summer 2010 collections was that they would play into my sports obsession. Anyone who knows me knows that this is the time of year when on Sundays (and the occasional Monday or Thursday night), I turn into a rather passionate and overly emotional Indianapolis Colts fan. I even wear a jersey.
I love it when two of my favorite things come together. Earlier in the week there was Alexander Wang. And now Alexandre Herchcovitch.
There were super dramatic pieces at the end of the show where the shoulders were exaggerated versions of actual pads and a cage skirt that could have been made from helmet material. I’m not really sure about carrying an actual football clutch. But I loved the plays on athletic socks and even the slightly padded pant. And the color-blocked rubber tank tops were fun.
But this season, for some reason, lacked a certain spunk (and we don’t just mean the confusing empty boxes inside the gift bags). It had all the good models (though it missed Agyness), the brightly colored embroidery, the youthful influence, and a party soundtrack, but it was, as the person next to me said, “all over the place.”
Her backdrop featured circus tents and if my Twitter icon hadn’t suddenly disappeared off the face of my iPhone, I’d have tweeted three’s a trend. The circus was nowhere to be found in Sui’s clothes though, instead there were a handful of hippie references and school girl looks we’d guess we’re inspired by her Gossip Girl inspired Target collection - if that isn’t too confusing.
And yes, we know ideas get recycled from season to season and that Marc’s own collection screamed “Rei,” but I swear those metallic dresses were in Bleecker’s Marc by Marc window last spring.
This collection is so g.d. beautiful. Where is that trust fund when I really need it? Seriously, it just got better and better as I made my way to the back of the room at Milk.
You realize that everyone there was freaking out with joy, right?
It’s like you’ve burst out of a shell or something. Is it because all that messiness at Bill Blass is finally, totally over and you’re free to be you again? Because that would make a helluva a lot of sense.
Whatever it is, it’s good to have you back in top form bringing us color, texture, tulip skirts, pantsfree prettiness, and all kinds of high-end quirk. And I live for those headpieces by Albertus Swanepoel. The cutest.
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Streetwalker: Two of A Kind
Wow...there are def some passionate people on here! Anyway, I think the girls look cute. Nothing r...
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