Reviews

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Reviews

Gucci Fall 2012: Velvet Underground

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2012 / 5:38 PM

MILAN–I can think of no better introduction to Milan Fashion Week than with Gucci’s show. Set at a storied building on the Piazza Oberdan, a 15 minute walk from my hotel, it was the perfect antidote to my case of jet lag.

Inside the venue guests were treated to flutes of champagne beneath a canopy of flowers. The catwalk’s floor was done up in a thick, plushy purple carpet and the walls were, of course, mirrored. The lighting was dim so that the whole vibe was more swank night club than runway show.

The carpet, it turns out, was a promise of what was to come–a moody purpley/maroon featured heavily in the collection as did plushy textures like fur, velvet, velvet and more velvet. Did we mention velvet? There was so much of the stuff, we couldn’t help but think how much George Costanza, who famously said he would drape himself in the fabric, would’ve loved the collection. Read more »

Reviews

Meadham Kirchhoff Fall 2012: Dazzling Disco Inferno

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2012 / 1:08 PM

LONDON–The crowd at Meadham Kirchhoff looks a lot different than at your average fashion show. You see very few Chanel bags–and quite a few plastic dresses, rainbow hair, and thrifted shoes. This show was a great, ridiculous way to end London fashion week on a happy high note.

Upon walking into the space, it wasn’t difficult to figure out the theme: Disco. Two rainbow paneled floors were added to the runway, tinsel and glitter covered every surface, and a rainbow of lights bounced off every wall. So I wasn’t exactly expecting neutrals, not that you ever do at a Meadham Kirchhoff show. Read more »

Ilincic RF12 1377

The setting for the Roksanda Ilincic show was unabashedly English–a series of small, elegant drawing rooms (which were connected by a runway) made it feel very intimate and a throwback to another era. All I needed was a tea trolley. But the clothes were definitely of this day and age.

Think slouchy “sweat pants” and hoodies made of cashmere.

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Reviews

Mary Katrantzou Fall 2012: Everyday Extraordinary

Wednesday, Feb 22, 2012 / 9:45 AM

LONDON–First of all, I would like to thank the seating fairies for granting me a perch on a front row bench for this show–if there is any collection you want to see up close, it is Mary Katrantzou‘s. I would also like to give a shout-out to whoever writes her show notes: I was riveted. Just this sentence killed me: “No sequin is left unturned.” From beginning to end this show was really an aesthetic pleasure to behold. (Forgive me if I sound hyperbolic–as I’m writing this, I’m very tired. But every word is true.) Read more »

Pilotto RF12 0089

LONDON–Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos are another London design team known for their prints. Pretty soon all of London is going to be covered in digital prints. But we’re not complaining.

Their first point of reference was “Japanese fetishized light trucks,” which are vehicles decorated with thousands of lights–these were made into exaggerated prints, as were carnations and irises. The palette was mainly blue, yellow, and green, accented with reds occasionally.

A few elements stuck out to me:

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Erdem RF12 0648

LONDON–London venues this season have either been full of gilt and chintz and huge chandeliers, or large spaces with industrial details. Erdem‘s show, held at a pristine white art gallery on a cool street in London, was a nice change. I got there way too early, and watched several amusing things before the show started: A young reporter with a cameraman in tow worked up her courage to speak to Anna Wintour, did a short interview, then realized the recorder hadn’t been on and had to go back and do it again. To her credit, Anna did the whole thing over again. Then she spent a good 20 minutes whispering to Franca Sozzani. Were they planning to go out for a Guinness after the show? Anyway.

The crisp white gallery space was the perfect backdrop for Erdem’s collection.

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Pringle RF12 0704

LONDON–Pringle of Scotland is the thinking woman’s label, as evidenced by fan Tilda Swinton, who was sadly missing from yesterday’s show. However, Rose Byrne–still rocking her Anna Wintour ‘do and decked out in fall 2012 Pringle–came instead. While Pringle probably won’t be her go-to label for the Oscars red carpet this weekend, she will have no shortage of lovely things to choose from in this collection once fall hits.

Alistair Carr based his collection around a girl who is “growing out of her teenage angst into a sophisticated woman.” To that end, the models all had dip-dyed hair but there was no sign of punkiness in the clothes.

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Mark Fast RF12 0176

Call it intuition, call it fashion ESP, call it whatever you want. But when we predicted the Mark Fast show would pack a London style star-studded front row, we were right. The grand line-up included model Portia Freeman, TV presenter Zara Martin, stylist Grace Woodward and finally singers Mollie King (The Saturdays), Nicola Roberts (Girls Aloud) and Marina Diamandis. And the man sitting in the midst of all these lovely British beauties? None other than Mr. Kanye West, who pretty much avoided all the high octane, spotlight shows in London this season. (Too busy prepping his collection, maybe?)

If there’s one word to sum up Mark Fast’s aesthetic, it’s haute knitwear. He’s got the ability to make crocheted knits appear less grandma and more glamma (OK, sorry for that one.)

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Twenty8Twelve RF12 1030

LONDON–Twenty8Twelve’s head designer, Elsa Elphick, is probably absolutely sick of people asking her about Savannah and Sienna Miller leaving the brand. They held a presentation over the weekend to showcase the new collection and a fashion film called “Faceless Featured Future.” Faceless future, indeed–at least a famous faceless future. So let’s get that part out of the way first.

I asked Elphick what has changed since the Miller sisters left, and she told me, “For us it hasn’t massively changed.” Hmm. So how much involvement did they actually have? Elphick assured me that she worked very closely with Savannah, but that now she would be making design decisions rather than have them made for her. When I asked if the Millers leaving would hurt the image of the brand, a member of Twenty8Twelve’s team jumped in.

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Reviews

Christopher Kane Fall 2012: Dark and Twisted

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2012 / 3:30 PM

LONDON–Upon walking into the lilac-carpeted space (this includes the walls) above a shopping mall where Christopher Kane showed his fall 2012 collection, I didn’t know what to expect. It seemed like such an upbeat, punchy shade, and his spring collection was full of color and sweetness and light and flowers.

Well, after a few looks went down the runway, I came to the realization that his fall muse was a lot darker and more sinister, and all the flowers had wilted. And it was completely thrilling.

No real show notes were provided apart from the credits, but Tim Blanks at Style.com wrote that Kane was influenced by 80s movie Cruising, which is about a serial killer who kills gay men. (Stay with me here.) Kane imagined what type of woman might go to the sex clubs depicted in the movie. He also used a moiré fabric because it reminded him of the inside of coffins. So this is where Kane’s head was for fall 2012.
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Acne RF12 0281

LONDON–Acne was the last show of a packed Sunday of London fashion week, and the fruity delicious cocktail offered to me by a lovely young guy wearing an all-black outfit (which included shorts, black knee socks, and black shoes), went down in about three seconds flat. If I could have pushed it via IV, I would have.

Perhaps that line of thinking got me focused on medical stuff, but this Acne collection looked like it could have walked straight out of an orthopedic unit. The pants were shown with girdle-like belts that sort of reminded me of those back support garments that movers wear. Some whiplash neck braces popped up, too, and there were a lot of flesh-toned garments reminiscent of ACE-bandages. But all very avant garde.

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Reviews

Burberry Fall 2012: An English Rainstorm

Tuesday, Feb 21, 2012 / 12:19 PM

Photo: Getty

LONDON–The Burberry show, which is the jewel in the crown of London fashion week, was held at a huge tent in Kensington Gardens, a fitting place to showcase such a quintessentially British brand. It’s also the slickest show around, and draws an always-impressive group of A-listers.

Brand ambassadors Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Eddie Redmayne (sans Karlie–where is that girl??) were there, as was Mario Testino, who sat next to Kate Bosworth (we were very jealous of her fall 2012 owl sweater.) At the last second, Will.I.Am snuck in and sat next to Alexa Chung. Samantha Cameron and Clémence Poésy rounded out the mix. It’s also one of the few shows that can get big models, and Arizona Muse, Jourdan Dunn, and Cara Delevingne–another face of the brand–all walked.

For a brand that’s known for its outerwear, Christopher Bailey has to really rub his hands in glee before he designs for fall. Not surprisingly, this collection was all about the coats, and they came in every possible iteration: Read more »